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#5: 02-27-2011, 09:10 PM
Drew888's Avatar
Title: Burning Monkey
Location: SoCal - Yorba Linda
Car: 2008 Spec-B SOLD, now a 2015 Chevy SS
Posts: 3,094
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These wires/connectors were something I had to build (thus the soldering iron). I was a bit surprised that all the pieces were there but not already put together for you. Not really a big deal but it may be if you don't have access to a soldering iron. At which case ask Matt at TRS to do this for you. His customer service is tops so I'm sure this is something he may be doing already on newer kits (I bought the very first Legacy kit, it's just taken me a while to get to it).

This plugs into the highbeam motor and then tapped into your high beam wires on the headlight. There was no easy way to run the wires out of the cap so I just squeezed it out of the side of the cap. I figured because of the small gauge of the wire combined with my wanting to keep a tight seal... In the pic you can see the tap to the high beams on the left and the wiring ziptied.
In this pic you will notice that I installed the new bulb using the supplied grommet through the cap. Now I already had a hole from my previous DDM HID kit (sorry I forget the size, just drill it out to carefully match the inner spec of the grommet). I then used black high temp silicone to fill the two holes and in between the grommet and cap.

You will also notice that the horizontal adjustment screw is capped off. I didn't do it but doing it again I would have drilled a small hold in the plastic just enough to get a 1/4" 8mm socket through there so you can adjust it later if needed.

I'm a big fan of Posi-Lock connectors so I choose to use them here. You can just make them out on the next pic at the end of the wires on the right. These are only on one headlight and they are the trigger wires. Down further you can see the entire harness and it's connecting to the pair in the center/top of the pic.

Once you have your new bulbs installed, caps on, and wiring done you are ready to bake them again. Go turn that oven on to 250*
Be very carefull never to touch the inside of the headlight assembly. It is a good idea to use a can of compressed air to remove any micro debrit though, just don't touch it.

Now carefulyl press the lens back on as far as you can get it and then go bake them again for 15min.

Things to have ready:
Gloves, the 3 small torx screws you took out, and the spring clamps.

Remove the light from the oven and press then halves together as hard as you can and make note of the tabs.

Now use your spring clamps and clamp it all around and then quickly screw in the torx screws you took out earlier.

Let it cool and grab the other one.

So from left to right:
The Morimoto ballast, one lead going to the headlight bulb and the other to the wiring harness.
The relay which installs on the battery side of the car and has a positive and negative lead to install.
Center is the tirgger that installs to the OEM headlight harness of the drivers side headlight. I choose Posi-Lock connectors mainly for a strong connection that is easily removable. When you ever need to remove this headlight you will either use a quick dissconnect like the Posi-Lock here or be forced to search behind the bumper for the connector of the harness.
Far right lead goes to the passenger side ballast that is missing from this pic.

Last edited by Drew888; 02-27-2011 at 10:14 PM..