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#4: 09-16-2010, 06:09 PM
 
 FredBeansParts
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23. Break the lug nuts slightly loose on the front wheels. Jack up the front of the car and lower onto jack stands. After making sure the car is stable, remove the front wheels.

24. Using a 12mm socket remove the bolts that secure the ABS wheel speed sensor line and brake line to the strut (circled in red below). Move them out of the way, you will want to make sure you don't pull, bend or otherwise stress them unnecessarily.



25. Using a wrench on one side and a ratchet (or impact) on the other side, remove the cam adjusting bolt and lower mounting bolt from the strut/knuckle interface (circled in yellow above). At this point the control arm and knuckle/spindle will sag. You can support it with a jack stand, block of wood, etc., or you can let it hang.

26. Open the hood and locate the three nuts that hold each strut mount to the strut tower, near the firewall (shown below). Have a helper loosen the nuts while you hold the strut. After the third nut is removed the strut will want to drop. Carefully navigate the strut out of the wheel well, avoiding the ABS and brake line as well as the CV boot.

27. Install your assembled strut in the reverse order of removal. Make sure to double check that the drain holes in the upper mount are facing toward the outside of the vehicle. When installing the cam adjusting bolt you will want to try and get as much negative camber as possible. I do this by turning the bolt and watching the brake rotor. Once the rotor is as tipped in at the top as it can get, I torque down the nut. By doing this on both sides I get reasonably even camber which will do until I get the car to the alignment shop. Here is a pic of the installed assembly followed by the torque specs for the OEM bolts.




28. When the wheels have been reinstalled, the car lowered and the lugs torqued, you can now torque the nut at the top of the strut rod. Koni recommends you use a pass-thru wrench to torque the nut while you hold the strut rod via the hex feature at the top of the shaft. I have never felt very comfortable doing it this way but fortunately the strut rod won't spin when the weight of the vehicle is on it. Simply torque the nut using a deep socket to the 37 ft*lbs as called for in the Koni instructions.

29. Onto the rear shocks... raise the rear of the car and remove the wheels like we did for the front.

30. Use your floor jack to compress the rear suspension slightly by jacking at the bottom of the shock (reference pic for next step). Basically we are trying to take the load off the bolt that connects the shock to the trailing arm. If you haven't soaked that bolt and nut in P'Blaster or Liquid Wrench, now is the time.

31. Here is where you will really appreciate your impact wrench. My favorite method for removing this tricky bolt is to put the impact on the inside (bolt head) and a breaker bar on the outside (nut). Have your helper hold the breaker bar, against the ground if possible, and let 'er rip with the impact. My Milwaukee 300 ft*lb electric makes quick work of this nut/bolt and anti-seizing during reassembly will make it a breeze the next time. If you are lucky it will come right apart and then you can pull out the bolt or give it a few taps with a hammer to extract it. Once this is done you can release the floor jack and let the shock extend fully.



32. Open the trunk and remove the floor liner. Crawl inside and roll up the liner at the back corners of the trunk. This will expose the tops of your rear shocks. With a friend holding the shock, remove the two nuts and let the shock drop from the car.



33. Install your assembled Koni shock in reverse order of removal. When ready, reinstall the wheels and lower the vehicle. Similar to the installation of the fronts, once the car is back on the ground you will go in and torque the top of the shock rod (37 ft*lbs).




34. At this point you will want to review the procedure and make sure you didn't over look any steps, torquing any fasteners, etc. I used the knob included with the Konis to set all corners to 1-turn, starting from full-soft. This is right in the center of their range and so far I have not felt the need to change it.

That's it! Take the car out for a test drive to make sure everything is working properly. You may get a few clunks and creaks as things settle in, but as long as the car behaves properly you should not worry about it. After a few days these sounds will go away.

To really get the benefit of these components you will want to take the car in for an alignment as soon as possible. I like to get as much negative camber from the front as possible (and even side-to-side), about .5 degrees less camber in the rear, and zero toe all around. This makes for great grip at street levels, very little tire wear, and a good starting point for tweaking things like swaybars, front/rear damping stiffness, tire pressures, etc.
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Last edited by FredBeansParts; 09-26-2010 at 04:24 PM..
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