Originally Posted by bugblatterbeast
Did you measure the current with a DMM or a current probe and a scope? The reason I ask is because most DMMs are too slow to capture the real startup currents. The initial current draw may have been even higher than what you measured and been the cause of your trouble. When I measured the Apexcone ballasts, the initial draw was above 14A, then quickly dropped to a lower value which eventually tappered to the steady state current after many seconds.
I totally agree with you here - I did use a digital multimeter to measure the current, and while you're right about them being too slow to capture the real instantaneous startup current, I am only comparing them against each other, not another value. The multimeter gave a reading before the engine completed cranking, and it was that 'during crank' value that I was most interested in - not so much to get an accurate representation of current draw, but two values which I can compare. Quite frankly, I totally expect the inital draw to be larger then what I was able to read with my DMM but these numbers still show the comparitive difference between the cranking values of both kits.
As for fixing the squirrel (spotters, finders, holes, whatever
) I didn't have a problem doing them without taking my headlamps apart. Granted, I have pretty long/skinny fingers. A buddy of mine with a 07 Camry said to just bend the angled metal piece down to cover it up, so I tried that first. IMHO, it's better then not doing anything to them (you can see how prominent they are in my before pictures) In my after pictures, I have them bent down - They still let a little amount of light through, and leave mild glare, so I used the quick steel to fill them in completely. Again, I didn't have a problem doing it with a small mirror, and my thin fingers.