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#15: 05-01-2007, 11:33 AM
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Title: Junior Member
Location: DeLand, FL
Car: 99Vehicross 06Legacy2.5iSE 04SuzukiAerio
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On another note...

Only running at low boost would allow for the use of a smaller and/or faster spooling turbocharger. This would compensate for no MAD upper rpm boost, and make it much more streetable as an everyday driver with a flatter powerband. I know the older wrx's with auto trannies made use of a smaller turbo to compensate for it having a slushbox auto tranny with less gears, although it still ran much higher boost than we are talking here.

Also, if someone is going to use a FMIC, boost MAY be allowed to go a little higher. A cooler air charge allows either less octane, or more psi. The whole formula for boost is like a fire triangle. PSI, octane, and air temperature. All three directly relate to detonation. Mess the ratio up, and KABOOM. No one should ever touch a car if they cant chat these three to the cars' owner. If they dont know, they dont know how to tune. Modify one, and it affects the others. The drawback to a FMIC is longer lag time due to more cubic feet of tubing that has to be pressurized before "boost" is acheived. Also, if only 5-6 psi is needed, then a turbo that can generate 30 psi is WAAAAYYYYY out of context here, although cfm does play a small role. Thats like grandma with a 600 hp blown grocery getter corvette or something. You just wont use it, and it will not operate as good as something designed for the task.

I see a huge benefit of having a tiny turbocharger boost instantly, and then allow that same 5-6 psi to apply to the entire powerband, especially for someone that drives at elevations higher than sea level. Imagine a dyno curve entirely raised entirely about 20 hp minimum. This same rational idea is like saying a N/A Honda is faster than a scooby due to more horsepower only in the last 1000 rpm of acceleration = big huge top end turbo VS. a N/A Subaru that has loads of broad rpm horsepower across a larger section of rpms = small broad rpm turbo. Basically, how much shifting do you want to do to equal the same thing? There are pros and cons to each depending on use. I dont know any hondas that have the torque or ability to start in 2nd gear(although my VX can in 3rd. hehehehe). Anyone?