Drako

Checking in.... 05 LGT wagon 5mt 195,000 miles as of 1/5/15. Water/timing replaced at 175,000 just before I bought it. Original turbo, stage 2 Cobb, catless everything. Had it dumped after I bought it and registered 257hp and 274ft-lbs. Ran a 14.flat at the drag strip this last summer.. Currently I run a 50/50 blend of Shell T6/ Amsoil 0w30 with a OEM RX8 oil filter. For this winters set up I gathered some OEM wheels and plasti-dipped them bronze and they are holding up well. This spring will bring a new BOV GFB respons. The JDM double din has been eluding me this far but that would be my final peice to making my car just the way i would like it.

So, now I suspect that the drivers side has a busted wire. I fixed the lights for the licence plate when I got the car. But now The hatch no longer locks and it's caught me off guard a couple times as I used the remote to unlock the tailgate and had the alarm trigger. Too stinking cold right now to go digging and fix. I'm pretty sure the drivers side has the locking mech wires. Anybody know for sure?

So, after poring over 10 years of posts and 22+ some odd pages I've come to a little bit of a conclusion here. Looks to me where some the ones who fried the body control unit, these were several attempts at modifying the original idea. i.e. no diode, terminating at the bulb, and so on. Truth be told I will be modifying by putting in a LED as opposed to a regular diode and drilling a hole in the plastic cover that's above the lens for the LED. Just b'cuz I can. And I will be using the non solder terminate under the bar method, But other than that I believe it should be good. Just test the brown wire and make sure it's good before continuing. It should slowly return from ground to 0. Right? You see, That's the only part of the info I can't find in all of the posts. What the actual reading the brown wire should be when the door is open and when the door closes and when all lights are off. Another question? Did this mod always work 100% after done correctly? Or were there eventual failures? I think after almost 10 years there might be some feedback about that. I don't anticipate to be real issues when done correctly, but more info is always good. So please sound off LGT peeps and let me know what your thinking. Thanks

When I first got my LGT the license plate lights didn't work. Sure enough, pulled the boot at the passenger side and the purple wire was chewed through. So cut, crimp, add wire, crimp. All good. I wonder if they just packed too much in the space they allowed for the wires and the boot.