Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

triple_B

Members
  • Posts

    108
  • Joined

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Location
    Seattle
  • Car
    07 Wgn at Infamus Borla Ralitk Koni Rota
  • Interests
    ski, bike, drive
  • Occupation
    manipulate traffic and lasers

triple_B's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. good move. I made some as well ages ago but I made them a bit longer and angle cut one end so I can drive up on them. noting like gunning the engine to drive up 5" in 8" and then stopping in 6". rather than paint how about getting some fabric (sued, felt, velvet) to drape over them. or wrap and staple to bottom. this way you wont see the lines between wood and it will look cleaner for shows. match the color to some of that undercarriage goodness.
  2. Hi all, Previously I may have weakly asked how ATF flows in the 5EAT, valve body and cooler. I don’t recall being satisfied with an answer, if there was one. After the VB mod or rather with the VB mod I put in a 9x6x.75 tranny cooler with 5/16 inlets and ATF line (including stock cooler) and two temp sensors for the return (cooled) and exit (hot) lines. Of course the VB mod is awesome! But ive never been keen on the Temp sensors or cooler or possibly the system with the information and sensations im getting. The ATF can get really HOT. Under normal driving its okay. Freeway it stays nice at 190* UNLESS I accelerate hard up a long hill. So 60 mph in 5th (or 4th or 3rd) for 1 or 2 minutes. Within a minute or two the temp will spike quickly up to 230*. If I return to flat and cruising speed the temp will take 4 mins to return to 190*. If it’s a warm day and im in stop and go traffic at traffic signals the temp will slowly creep up to 220* and stay there. On a few hot days here in Seattle its gone to 250* On the track my temp will climb to 290*and stay. I have had to cut session’s short for fear of frying things. Even on cool and rainy days it will stay around 260*. I can tell at temps that high I have less power in 4th on the straights. As the temp gets this hot the car is slower in the straights. At the beginning of the day or session ill hit 125mph but once hot ill hit 115mph. Out of corners in 2nd and 3rd it feels like power is still there but so much is happening to really feel it clearly. So, ive bought a larger cooler, Hayden 11x11x.75 (which will barely fit in front of radiator and mounts) with 3/8” inlets and 3/8 line which is what stock is. I also got 3/8 barbs for the Temp sensor “T”s. AND a 1/2” fluid thermostat manifold with 3/8” barbs. (it’s a bit huge, a little bigger than my fist). Im having trouble finding a place near the hard lines to mount it. Now my fear is ive gone and added to much extra line or volume that the VB or 5EAT will be hindered. Is this the case? Am I correct that ATF is not compressible and is not exposed to atmosphere so how severely would it be affected by the increased length and volume? Will line pressure or whatever pushes and holds the clutch packs together be lessened and allow slipping? I guess I should ask how and where ATF line pressure is made and what does it do? I get spinning fluid in the torque converter to spin the tranny but does that require pressurized ATF? Does the Torque converter pressurize the ATF or is there a dedicated pump for that? If there is a pump does it provide pressure to push the clutch packs ONLY or to also move the fluid through the system (i.e. to the cooler and back)? Some time ago I think I got an answer on the route of fluid through the system. Is it VB, clutches, TQ then cooler? With majority of heat coming from the converter? If most the heat comes from the converter then the VB mod should not have affected temps. Prior to the VB mod I only drove with one temp sensor for 60 miles on the freeway in March. I vaguely remember it spiking slightly above 190* on hard hill acceleration. I need more people to put in temp sensors or read the internal ones with the laptop to get a conclusive baseline. Most critical question is will the increased volume of lines, cooler and thermostat harm anything and/or deplete power? Thanks for the help Triple
  3. i track the car a bit and noticing that i need more camber up front. don't want coilovers nor camber plates. the addition of .75* of caster and .5* negative camber are perfect. haven't been to the track yet, soon. it was funny when i put one in and was able to compare stock to these. i couldn't believe how rubbery soft the stock hats were. the WL didn't really move when pushing or wiggling the strut assembly. it did kind of make the larger bearing click. it seems tight so hope it is. now the question is how do i adjust caster in the WL LCA rear bushing i put in. i left it in what was most neutral. with the bolt hole to the inside center. if i rotate the shaft i can see the CA move but how much can i do it? should i just max it out? thanks
  4. been on my koni and Ralitek springs for 20k on stock top hats. i just picked up these! pretty TIGHT http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA409 or theres this https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html I may only drive 45 miles a week. less in the summer so NVH is not a prob
  5. But you, RyanGT, Root and I already know.....who else is there!?
  6. Originally Posted by Swine Fen i directly disagree with you on the opinion that this is swag. Of course changing the master and booster isnt going to provide a stronger brakeing system, this is a very basic concept and the fact that you didnt understand the first go around makes me second guess your general car knowledge. The purpose for me doing this, and many others, was to remove pedal take up, mush at the top of the pedal travel, AND the sudden ballooning in the braking force that you subsequently have once your pads finally engage. Why? Because there is an ungodly amount of this on most OEM and/or modified OEM LGT braking systems. Negates all feel? Please go into this further. There are three components of feel; pressure, a corresponding increase in brakeing force with the addition of more pressure, and the ability to modulate the brakes at lockup. ALL of these functions, in my experience, were improved apon, ESPECIALLY compared to the severely lack luster OEM booster and master. It may not be perfect, if thats what you were shooting for, but it is sure as hell alot better then the OEM. Fen, i fear you are making things a bit worse. you mentioned yourself that you dont know much and dont have the time and you just write. your deduction in describing "feel" is flawed by personal bias. it has no empirical data just your own "i think" and "i feel". i track my car a lot in Washington. contrary to popular myth we have nice hot weather here and it does rain a lot. often in the same day. track conditions are fun and you get them all. prior to this mod my pedal often went to the floor and in dire straights in hot times i would run out of pedal stroke and loose braking ability. as a side not i do not ride my brakes and i am a very late braker so i dont over heat and toast pads rotors or fluid. the "mushy" pedal you like or would like is odd in my approach and practice. if i need to modulate my brake pressure i dont want to pump my entire leg up and down 2 inches in a mushy stroke to find the g-spot. i LOVE my slight toe pressing to modulate. even with the ABS i love what this mod has done. i put my foot down late and hard and if a tire doesnt like it all i do is curl a toe for the correct pressure and all is perfect. this occurs at the top of the pedal. for giggles i buried (or tried to bury due to pressure and instant contact) the pedal and it will overwhelm the ABS and its a slick 4 wheel squeal. so its got bight! and thats with at temp Star Specs. as for measuring clamping pressure (and/or line pressure) there is a tool for that. ive read about it but dont have one. could be an easy thing to come across. as for thinking this mod does NOT change pressure you are wrong. changing bore piston and stroke in the MC all affect pressure. also, by not bottoming out stock setup i also dont loose braking ability. i cant recall now if the STI/WRX MC piston/bore is smaller or larger than stock LGT or if its stroke (length) is different (if someone wants to cut one open or find the spec it would be great). as math would have it a larger bore is less pressure via equal work but if the stroke changes so does the amount of fluid moved by the piston in the bore before moving into the brake lines (again, if stroke changes so does pressure). assuming the mod is a larger bore i might have to push harder now to get increase in pressure but by no longer bottoming out with "mushy" pedal i get engagement 'instantly' and can continue applying more force (aka pushing harder with foot) to increase pressure and push pads harder. this increase in pressure on track pads and wider sticker tires allows greater braking force to be applied before loss of traction. ie i stop faster. line pressure could also be affected if the brake lines in the LGT are a different i.d. size than the STI/WRX. if they are this would again be an area for math with volume and pressure change that would affect brake torque. happy braking and here are some fun reads. http://www.automedia.com/Better_Brake_Performance/pht20080501gh/1 http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0601phr_braking_systems/viewall.html http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-system-and-upgrade-selection
  7. there are 3 methods for bleeding the system. 1 for the BB bench bleed (which i dont like, its just as easy to bleed it on the car). this is because some dont get the knack of the install and flipping the MC around, up, over in and and out a dozen times may get air in it. so just bleed in the car. methods 2 and 3 are for bleeding the brake lines. one is for a fresh start, new fluid throughout empty brake lines (or with massive air). two is if you are just bleeding to push fluid near the caliper out from pure stock in the reservoir . look in the service manual for your car. read the whole section on brakes and MC BB install. it will list both. if done incorrectly (in order or process) you will have air and have a mushy pedal or late engagment. as for ajdusting the push rod; dont use the measure your stock one and match method. this can be missleading as i think different versions rods are different lengths. this was the case in mine. just adjust the new rod to meet the pedal and light kill switch. see how i did it on page 2 or 3. good luck
  8. ^^^^ mine looks gorgeous on the stick as well. but its a whole different story when i drain some. its easy. get under the car (safely) put your drain pan under the atf pan, put a party cup to catch the atf and drain a pinch out. i would love it if someone would take a look. hahah thanks
  9. i have had a set of Sparco Assetto Gara black 17x7 with Star Specs for my track set up for 8 track days now little over a year. still going strong. i havent hit a pot hole but 80 mph over a track corner curb all the time. ive been thinking of getting an 18x8 set for the VW JSW.
  10. how long have you had the VB? have you ever drained some fluid to look at it? what should my fluid look like? after 2000 miles since my VB mod and 2 track days ive drained 1 to 3 quarts out twice now and it looks dark, almost black while in a water bottle. i cant see through it. but if i drip it on a piece of glass its clean red but not like new. no particulates or chunks. http://www.yotatech.com/f2/holy-crap-transmission-fluid-looks-like-used-motor-oil-pics-166178/ its similiar to this pic what should it be like thanks
  11. ^^^^cool, thanks. so my supper cool fluid sits in the pan and gets sucked up by the pannel filter up into the VB maze channles, clutch packs then TQ???
  12. i did the self help ClimberD mod with a twist by adding the "orange" spring. 1st to 2nd is a brutal kick. ive only done it 4 times now in 9 months. ive tracked the car hard 3 times now with it and a lot of 2 to 3 shifts that still kick but the star specs no chirp. i only WOT shift while turning while on the track (Ridge Motorsports Park) endering the straight. its a 2 to 3. it will slip in the rain but kicks hard in the dry. no breakage yet. BUUUUUUT! im having over heating issues. after 10 mins my hot ATF leaving the tranny is 290+ (cause the gauge ends). my cool side is now 150 (stock then added cooler). it used to be 190 (added then stock). am i cooling the atf too much and the tranny is doing something to heat it back up? more slipping, a thermo valve in the torque converter holding the cold fluid? what is the route of atf into and out of the tranny? thanks all Triple
  13. yes, in both parts; would increased pressure cause qiucker flow causing less cooling time? and/or would increased pressure be lost (returned to normal) with the addition of volume, distance and restriction of added cooler?
  14. ^ you are correct. one sensor is off by 60 degrees on the gauge because it is from a different manufacutre, resistance is different. but the test with you showed it to be accurate at 100 and 190 (actuall temp). later temp test at startup and all ranges have shown the same. im 90% confident with the sensor/guage setup now so im looking at more cooling on the track and the best way to set it up. i wish i had the guages in before the VB while on the track. that would have solved most of this. also what are the affects of line pressure increase and affects to that pressure and flow rate as i add coolers? i think it was being discussed in the threads i cant find that i mentioned above. as ghetto as it seems ive been thinking of taking a clear piece of tubing and place it inline with a piece of small wire or dental floss inside of it to wiggle in the flow and see if it changes as the temps increase. but then again i can tell that there is flow as the temp will come down with regard to speed and abuse. but the clear tube is just vinyl so it wont take the heat well so it could get messy. ill be in touch about meeting up.
  15. i have already put TWO temp sensors in the atf lines (hot and cold side). cooler is infront of rad on driver side, half covered by bumper beam they went in before my transgo VB mod. temp can creap up a bit under freeway sprints. but will cool down quickly as long as im at speed a lot of stop and go on 70+ degree days it will climb to 210 and really wont go down. last week at the track on 85 degree day it hit 240 after 15 mins. on straight it stopped accelerating at 105 in 4th at WOT(when it would normally hit 125). a few months back i came accross some 5eat, tranny, cooler, line pressure threads. now i cant find them. i would like to find out if increasing line pressure (VB mod) will increase temp as drastically as i am seeing? (pressure causes heat) if so, why have other VB modders not seen the same....or have they not done the extent i have with installing sensors and plotting temps and not to mention tracking it all day. prior to this event i was questioning if the 160 degree temp after cooler to tranny was causing issues. but since its been warm here in Seattle finally the temp sits nicely at 190 on both sides at normal and slight sprints. i did 4 track days at stage 2+ before VB mod and now 2 since VB. 50k miles now so i may have toasted the clutch packs already. i should formulate everthing and start a new post. but id rather be out in the summer weather or working/driving car. what i want to do is do a cheap test ant tune track day for $125 and run every route of line and cooler i can think of. currently aftermarket is first then stock to tranny. no aftermarket cooler just stock no stock just aftermarket stock 1st aftermarket 1st if the tranny gets hot and i supper cool aft with electric fan on cooler can i cause issues with drastic heat shift as cool aft reenters tranny? the in and out lines on tranny are so close. where is the fluid routed to/from? better yet, id rather just have a beer with you and chat you into madness. ill be curious if the added cooler size, distance, capacity and pressure drop are good/bad/indifferent. a friend of friend has a line pressure sensor so i could try that. or maybe my VB mod attempt has something missing.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use