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torinalth

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  1. had thought the front was a bit higher.... I have my notes stashed somewhere... I'll see if I can dig them out, but the rear is right.
  2. vogtland is the closest to rallitek in both drop and spring rate. mine just came in today, just need my tophats and i'll install... probably this weekend.
  3. the vogtland seems to be near identical to the rallitek rates with a lil more drop. I have a line into myles at RCE to see if he has any thoughts (he was going to piece together some things and see if it would work with what he has already made) before I take the Vogtland route myself
  4. well, lost one more option. rallitek pulled their springs, so they are no longer an option. With the epic's sometimes having the squeeking in the rear, progress being too light, is it just the swifts now? Pinks are not what I am after, and I still dont know the rates on the H&R.
  5. that is a very good point. I'm sure it will make a difference indeed. One thing to keep in mind in my case, yours may be different, is that I am running adjustable bars, so I can change to a softer front setting and a harder rear setting if the springs do prevent rotation. Of course, if you are completely stock, and just adding springs or spring/struts then the spring choice might make more of a difference like you noted. always a pain to understand suspension dynamics, but not how the specific numbers affect a specific car. I know how they affect a new edge mustang though, just not a subaru
  6. that is a good review for what I was looking at. might as well go with the higher rate then, considering the view. ty.
  7. ahh yes, 25mm, not 27. sorry. to some extent I am unsure on how to apply the rates to the LGT. I understand higher rate, more resistance to compression, but not how much more firmness will be applied by X number of spring rate. and nobody I know has a LGT that is modified. only WRX I know has some tein S techs on stock AGX struts, so hard to get a good correlation. with the koni, I'd imagine the dampening is more than enough for either one. regarding the epic, I do hear that they are not much more stiff than stock, which lead me to lean towards the rallitek. but I just dunno, since the rallitek seems to be the highest rate of springs on the market....
  8. so, trying to get a better idea of why to go with either rallitek or epic springs. my struts are gone, so going to be changing out to koni struts. so to finish out the suspension I'm going to get the springs, and down to the epic vs rallitek. thoughts on why you would take one vs the other (not "I have XXXX get them", but why one vs the other). if it matters for my suspension I'll have: koni struts, perrin 27mm front and rear sway bars, rallitek endlinks, AVO offset LCA bushings, AVO frnot LCA bushing. just needing the springs decided.
  9. ahhh, wow, clunking... somehow I completely glossed over that and only noticed the complaint of being too stiff. as far as the clunk now being part of the picture, yes the LCA bushings could be it, and I wish I could tell you I knew what they were supposed to look like... I only have hands on with WRX bushings to say for sure. but I know they are a popular failure point for the car. secondly, check the sway bar endlinks for being tight and if they are a bit wobbley or just not as tight in the ball/socket joint. the endlinks on many cars can cause the thunks. third, check your tophats. I have seen 1 personally wear out that needed to be replaced and the bearing in the top hat was the cause of the clunk. and joining the bushing failures, are the bushings in the rear suspension arms. check them out. T
  10. best way, may not be easiest, is to remove them and do a few checks. see if there is oil leaking out of the top. if its already been gone for a while, then you may not see it leaking any more in which case try and compress it. friend blew his struts and you could compress the strut with your hands. that should NOT be posible. and finally you can try the drill method. drill into the bottom of the shock body on the under side, in the middle. if the gas and oil spray out, then the shock was not blown... if it doesn't and only drips out oil, then it was blown.... now cut the top off and slide in koni inserts. T
  11. blown strut, worn bushings as well. but I do question the "too stiff" part. my 05 LGT was so damned loose it was scary for me to drive fast, it needs much more stiffening, even after 25mm sways.... so I am kinda curious.. I also owned a RSX-S 02, and friend has an 06 both mine and his were WAY more stiff than the LGT. If you honestly can compare it to being stiff as a RSX-S (which is not that stiff to be honest) then I am thinking something is modified, or maybe you are not remembering the RSX properly. regardless, what is the issue you have specifically? bumps? road noise? vibrations? what tires are on the car? air pressure? T
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