thesavo

They seem to be. I don't like the brakes still during an emergency stop. Also I get a little more stiffness if I pump it first before braking

ah, so I'll get it in my travels next week then. Thanks for the confirmation. My L-S has 174,000 Miles, I doubt this thing was babied or maintained Upstate NY gets cold in the winter. -15C sometimes.

The fluid was weeping from the bleed screw threads even with 40 degree turn. That's not even a 1/4 turn.

Usdm 2004

It's not critical I change it on my 04 is it? It doesn't appear to be leaking at the moment. I'd rather drive to the dealer after I make progress on these fluids. Getting started on a project can be difficult for some.

I just downloaded your PDF guide. I'll Try it on my '04MY tomorrow. Does the o-ring (34439FG000) apply to Gen 3s as well? Update: NO. Update. So the pump did change from 04 - 05. Gen 3 (99-04) - 34439AE00A Gen 4 (05-09) - 34439FG000 Does this same part fail the same in older models as it is want-to-do in Gen4's? Reference: http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2004&modelName=legacy25l-at-4wdl-s-wagon&ukey_assembly=6027933&ukey_category=54100&assembly=b12-348-01 http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2005&modelName=legacy25l-4at-4wd25i-limited-wagon&ukey_assembly=6027973&ukey_category=54100&assembly=b13-348-02

Another silly question or three. Do you leave the cap on the master cylinder why the wheel is bleeding? Also, is it normal for brake fluid to Leak out of the threads of the bleeder screw when it's open? Lastly, should I close the bleed screw before adding more fluid?

What filter have you all used? I am seeing a lot of compatible spin-on oil filters come up. Napa - 1365 Wix- 51365 Purolator - 1285 (Branded as a TX filter) ATP B-198 Fram - 6607 (and the line of TG, XG) Will a matching engine oil filter work? Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11 I also have found in-pan screens. Does nobody change these, or are they only for builds with NO filter? Napa - ATM 3633003 I have 172,000 Miles on my 3rd hand 4EAT.

Odd how it's not wired as it's designed. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

American cars however just now started to put collapsible wing mirrors on All of their vehicles. The reverse approach lights I am not a fan of. It still looks like the vehicle is backing up Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

I just read through all 9 pages of this thread. I have learn a lot more than reading just the first 2 pages. (as one would expect). Here is my takeaway. I know I should have read the whole thread before posting, but 9 Pages is alot, expecially when many of them are about how to purchase LEDs. This mod was not posted in a Generation specific thread, yet everyone that posted has a Gen 4 or later. I am planing on performing this on my 2004 Wagon. People tend to fry their Integrated Units. However so. Best I can tell, the Jury is sure that it may or may not being 36 Total watts, as apposed to the 8 that it intended to have. Many thought that they could wrap the wire around the bulb as appose to soldering to the Bus bar down stream of the switch. That sounds very poor. Icy in Post 55 was the first to correctly think of de-pining the map lights plug and swapping the contacts instead of cutting the body side wires. Yamarocket630 in post 144 Was to to first that I could tell that stated the Subaru wiring diagram is wrong about the Map lights. It would stand to reason that I or someone should update and upload the factory diagram for Gen3 and Gen4 map lights. This should help ease the mind and add clarification of those plan on performing this mod. Also, Gen3 people. I think I have a more factory looking solution that I will post in a day or so. It takes advantage of the Gen3 (MY 2004 anyway) Different Fixture layout.

So you checked it with a meter, and get a path to ground when the dome is on? I would pull a map bulb and place the meter there to check for ground when dome is in and work back. On an ancillary note, it's odd that you have to reverse the polarity of the OEM map connector. This how I would expect it to work. Solder in the bulb holders on the switch side. From the factory, the map bulbs always have power, and receive ground through switch. The dome is a switched ground. In fact, it gets the same "always-hot" the map-lights get. http://i1344.photobucket.com/albums/p659/thesavo/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/map-mod/map-mod-d_zpswzay5fhu.png This post was made after only a cursury read of the first two pages. See next post for edits.

Seems like your jumper wire from dome to map fixture has come loose. Did you use butt connectors or something? Bad solder joint? How did you get the Dome Ground lead over there?

Does the oe dome light still come on? Do the maps work normally?

I never expected it to be worse than my Taurus saloon. My 2004 legacy estate gets around 18-19 miles a gallon. I thought these were smaller.