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johnegg

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    virginia
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    98 obw, 97 GT w/ ej22, '01 H6 VDC

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  1. usual causes: rear trans mount. rear diff bushings drive shaft u-joints $400 is not expensive, if it fixes the problem. but what if it doesn't? how sure are they? i doubt the hub is the problem, unless they damaged it. usually it is something mount or rear drive related. but no guarantees. i would tell them that they caused it. worked fine when you brought it in. maybe the tech didn't tighten the axle nut properly. so it was loose. this caused trouble, wear, when test driven. and now they hope you will pay to fix it. good luck.
  2. you can swap in any ej22 96 - 98 with EGR, usually frond in an auto trans car. if a 98, use your original intake manifold. you can use a 95 ej22 from an auto trans car but you will need the matching exhaust manifold, exhaust y-pipe. 95 an 96 are non-interference engines. 97 - 98 are interference. ej22 engines from manual trans cars usually do not have EGR.
  3. apples and oranges. you two are debating entirely different things. 1/ whether the long side of the jiggle pin goes up or down. 2/ whether the jiggle pin should be on the front, toward the radiator, or rear, toward the block / trans, of the housing the t-stat sits in. as stated in an earlier post, if you use a suabaru t-stat, the housing on the bottom, the bottom radiator pipe connection, is not large enough for the t-stat to go in upside down. after market t-stats are smaller and they could be installed the wrong way. but since it is a NO NO to use an aftermarket t-stat, we are not too worried about that, are we.
  4. these cats rarely go bad. most shops / the dealer will tell you that a p0420 means you need new cats, but usually a new rear o2 sensor will eliminate the code. there are lots of things that will cause this code besides cats. did you read / view the linked posts? it is a lot, but worth it. you probably do not need all of it, the original poster is very knowledgeable, if he says it is so, then it is. spray carb cleaner all around the intake and vac hoses when idling to find a leak. if the idle revs up you have found your leak.
  5. how long did you drive the car with no p0420 cel? did the bosh sensor come with a plug on it? it is highly unlikely that it is the cat. look for an intake leak. spray carb cleaner around all the air intake parts, air filter, plastic piping intake manifold gasket throttle body gasket
  6. what brand of o2 sensor did you install? the front one needs to subaru quality or much better. the rear can be generic. if a quality sensor was used, then it might be time to install an anti fouler spacer. it is a work around and not a fix. but it should eliminate the CEL. read this: P0420 Diag - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
  7. the error code will specify ''bank'' and sensor number. on a typical 2 sensor H4 subaru, bank 1 (there is only one bank on a gen 3 H4 engine) sensor 1 is the o2 before the cat. sensor 2 would be the o2 after the cat. i don't think the ''spacer'' will correct the p0420 code on stock subaru equipment on gen 3 cars. i THINK they closed that loop hole and the system will throw a different code. but i'm not sure. on gen 2 stuff you could eliminate the cat and use a spacer on the rear sensor and the computer would never know. the front o2 would adjust the fuel air ratio and the rear one would be tricked into think the cat was doing its job.
  8. car-part.com calls it a rear spindle. 90 -99 are all the same except some have ABS and some don't. but the software at car-part will handle that for you and return a list of several years. spot weld sounds interesting. i wonder what it would cost to have some one do it for you??
  9. to replace the tone ring you have to take apart the hub / knuckle and replace the wheel bearing in addition to the tone ring.not impossible but not desirable in my opinion. a cheaper and IMHO much better solution rather than doing all that is to buy a used knuckle / spindle and replace the whole unit. a low mileage knuckle can be had for ~$30. go to http://www.car-part.com and have one shipped in from the NON-rust belt. before you start the job, spray some PBblaster or the like on the bolts involved for several days. you can't do this too much.
  10. this is because both the front and the rear are open differentials. the wheel with the least resistance spins and the other one just sits there. you can try stepping on the brakes a little or applying the hand brake slightly to stop the spinning and hopefully the ''stuck'' wheel will engage. or swap in a VLSD rear diff (they were standard on 03 era GTs and outbacks, easy swap). now your car changes from 2wd, one front and one rear, to 3wd, one front and 2 rear.
  11. then it is probably something in the transfer case, but i wouldn't work on it until you have done the engine. this thread has some goods info. post #21 has pics. (you may have to register to see?) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=grooves+dremel+grind*&page=2
  12. the rear wheels are not ''connected'' to the trans when the engine is off, so a rear wheel spinning by hand when jacked up is normal. (no fluid pressure in the transfer case means no power / connection to the rear wheels.) there is the possibility that something in the rear extension housing is busted causing no AWD. and if it's a new ''break'',( drum busted off the shaft) i think it would make some noise. but it could be ''grooves'' worn in the drums not letting the plates engage. does your speedo work? a failed speed sensor will eliminate AWD, the car will default to FWD. without one of the speed sensors the computer cannot make a comparison between the front and rear wheel speeds and therefore it cannot send power to the rear wheels. if the car were still running, i would unplug the large connector to the trans located on the back of the engine. (largest of the three.) this will disconnect the TCU, put the trans in limp mode, third gear only, and cause ''binding'' in tight turns. if you get the binding, this means the mechanical stuff is ok in the transfer case and the problem is probably else where.
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