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KoukiS14

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About KoukiS14

  • Birthday 11/10/1974

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  • Location
    Albuquerque, NM
  • Car
    2005 LGT wagon
  • Interests
    Rock climbing, cycling
  • Occupation
    IT consultant

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  1. That would be nice, but there's no suction on the return line. All of the fluid is being pushed, rather than sucked.
  2. Damn, that doesn't sound good. Have you bothered to try disconnecting the battery for a while? It can't hurt. I wonder if FreeSSM is specifically compatible with your 2010's TCU and the TCU clear operation. Possibly a visit to a dealer could clear the code, or they could reflash the TCU.
  3. I'll add that the proper way to monitor the ATF temp on a 5EAT is via the internal trans temp sensors using the OBD port. That gives accurate, in-situ ATF fluid temps from the bowels of the beast. An external gauge will only be relative to the real deal in the trans, showing you that your ATF is being nicely cooled, or not, by whatever cooling setup you have. But once that fluid is back in the pan, it's coming up to cooking temps nice and quick. Sous vide, anyone? If you want an external gauge, then it should be plumbed in before the cooler, as close to the transmission as possible to more accurately monitor the actual ATF temps within the trans. What's important in a cooler is that it cool an adequate amount when necessary. What's an adequate amount? As David illustrated, it depends on the car, the driver, and the conditions. I've got lots of lady friends with OBXTs that will never need more than stock cooling. Preventing long term fluid overheating is what's paramount. It really doesn't take too many incidents of overheating even quality ATF to severely degrade it. Any stock 5EAT with decent power in front of it is capable of toasting its fluid, even with as much cooling as you can throw at it. Looking at scorched blue transmission steels and clutch packs reveals that's the most dangerous heat source from the ATF's perspective: extreme pressure, sheering, and heat generating friction, with the fluid laid out nice and thin and at its most vulnerable. Built 5EATs and those with VB mods will generate less heat internally than a stock 5EAT. In fact, a VB upgrade is probably the best "cooling" solution for a 5EAT, but I don't think you can put too big a cooler in place, especially if you use a thermostat with it. My testing shows that even with a large Hayden 678 as the only cooler, temps can still linger over 200* for a prolonged period of time in summer heat after having beat on the car.
  4. Thanks, Frank. Didn't have time to look that up. Eagerly awaiting a hitch for my wagon BTW, I shattered my center diff gears boost launching with 700 lbs. of carpet in the back the other morning. Swapped it with spares that day. Bushings seemed fine, but I haven't pressed them out yet. Running a stock setup for the moment Oh, and the center diff clutches were BURNT!!! All four black, with moderate cracking on the paper friction surfaces. I was really surprised to see that with only 15,000 miles on them.The damn frictions in the diff are the tiniest things from the old 4EAT. Of course, that's daily multiple low boost launches to scoot ahead of traffic, cornering under power as well as braking. I'm hard on my cars. ;-) If they last at all they're worthy. The 5EAT is fairly worthy. Cryo and a surface treatment on the next set of sun/planetaries going into mine. Agreed. Me too. Although it drops it only about 6%, or 200 RPM at 75, but that's not bad. I've briefly started looking at alternate 1-5 gear ratios for the 5EAT by swapping in internals from other Jatco based transmissions. A super tall 5th would be nice, with low and tight 1-3. Fast off the line, GTR style, with stretched out taller gears for better freeway mileage and/or higher top speed.
  5. The R&P are different ratios between the manuals and the automatics.
  6. Definitely not your center diff, which is only in use when turning. I'd vote for wheel bearing. I don't think I've heard of the diff gears making noise before failure. Only after. Then it's a noise that indicates that something's obviously wrong. Only doesn't upshift manually properly from the wheel paddles, or doesn't upshift properly in normal drive or sport mode as well? If it's just manually from the paddles, that does sound like faulty electrics there. The lack of downshift to second is manual or auto mode? What on earth do you mean by the cooler being blocked off? Removed from the cooling loop? If you block that loop, that's not a good thing. Not throwing a code is good. Seems like the TCU keeps pretty good tabs on the trans, so if it was a VB issue or the actual vs. selected gear was different, it would let you know.
  7. Yeah, 30,000 miles is low mileage. I've reconsidered selling just the clutch packs though and I'm only going to be offering the full kits. It adds a little to the overall price, but I think if you've got the trans out, you might as well do the full rebuild. The "core" is the three clutch packs that require machining to be refit with extra high capacity clutch pairs. Those would be the input, direct and hi/lo/reverse clutch packs. Those are done on an exchange basis as part of the kit, and the $900 covers the cost of those in case they aren't returned.
  8. Yeah, the internals are mostly interchangeable amongst the years, so the build kit will work for 2008+ 5EATs.
  9. The filter is bypass rather than full flow. I don't think enough debris could accumulate to clog it.
  10. I've gotten used to the sound of Wilwoods. To me they sound like brakes that work. If someone hears them and throws a glance in traffic, they can't help but take a deeper look and realize the same thing. Also, the aluminum bracket extenders definitely contribute to the whole thing ringing and squealing. Mostly it's all of the square edges in the pads and calipers.
  11. I've pretty well convinced myself that I'm taking the clutch pack kit out of the equation and offering just the full rebuild kits. There hasn't been much demand, so it's build to order at the moment. Two weeks lead time is probably realistic at the moment. I just moved and I'm settling into new shop space. Once settled in, I hope to keep one or two kits stocked for quick shipment.
  12. Considering that the trans pump is capable of generating several hundred psi, I'm sure any restrictions in the cooling loop are inconsequential. I seem to remember reading that typical cooling loop pressures are around 20 psi, give or take 10 psi, depending on the vehicle.
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