iam_immigrant

Just got everything set up the other day and wanted to take it out for a test run. Everything worked out very nice. http://i47.tinypic.com/28slj4m.jpg http://i47.tinypic.com/2n6eqty.jpg

In the shop manual there is a part that tells you to do this. And also there is an existing notch that you have to 'undo' in order to get the axle off...well that's how it was on my rears anyways.

If you're referring to me, then yes 180KM (~116K miles)

I don't have much experience but worked out nicely and it's pretty straight forward. The job itself is not that hard (maybe a 3 or mild 4) but it was the rusty nuts/bolts that I had trouble with that took a lot of time. Especially the axle nut (torque spec is 177ft/lb). Basically went down like this: -loosen axle nut (not totally necessary step here but if you don't like doing when car is on stands do it now) I did it after taking wheel off cuz I couldn't get my centre caps off without messing them up. -take the wheel off -remove caliper (two bolts) -remove axle nut (unlock with hammer and punch tool) -remove rotor (remember to release hand brake) -service manual says remove abs and speed sensor (the abs was ok but I sheared off the speed sensor bolt head but it was so rusted on there that it wasn't going anywhere so didn't bother to drill out and replace.) -remove hub/bearing assembly bolts (4 of them, from the back...real biatch. I had to get under the car cuz it was awkward otherwise) -pull hub/bearing assembly (you NEED the hub puller) Then reassemble everything in reverse order, torque everything to spec, double then triple check and you're done. Also don't forget to get a new axle nut ($5 from dealer). I would set aside an entire day just in case. Hope this helps. And another thing re:safety, someone said to me always place the wheel you took off just under the car in the section you are working on. This is just in case the jack and jack stands were to fail the car would hit the wheel and not crush you completely.

Completed the change this weekend and somethings to mention to all the DIYers. -you WILL NEED the slide hammer/hub puller -get someone to help you if possible (lining up the hub assembly for the 4 bolts can be tricky) -you will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut -breaker bars...longer the better -pb blaster...get a can it will only help -and all the other safety stuff (jack stands, wheel chock, etc)

Will be attempting this on the weekend for the rear but just a couple q's -do I really need a slide hammer to get the hub out? even if its rusty? -do I need to grease anything before/after? -in addition to the axle nut and obviously bear/hub assb. do I need anything else? -I've only got some basic hand tools will that be enough or are there any sort of specialized tools needed. Thanks

As an update it was the rear wheel bearing. Subaru has an extended warranty on these 8yrs/180K. Got them replaced and everything is quiet now...well except when I'm booting it

I don't have any vibration issues....I just hear this low grumbling sound but no vibrations.

Don't mean to bring up a semi-old thread but I guess no one has been able to fix this problem yet.... I have the same problem on a totally stock '05 LGT w/ auto and I get the same sound regardless of temp. The other day was 32 C (about 86 F) and I still get the sound which only seems to happen at speeds over 80kph (~50mph). It's driving me nuts, literally!!