Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Thourbow

I Donated
  • Posts

    75
  • Joined

About Thourbow

  • Birthday July 14

Personal Information

  • Location
    North San Diego
  • Car
    05 ABP LGT Stage 3.5 all Infamous
  • Interests
    My Family, Cars, Guns, Mountain Biking, Surfing
  • Occupation
    Classified

Converted

  • User Title
    Deina Muter schmect gute

Thourbow's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. I've been humbled. Now the noise is lowder and when I downshift abruptly, I get new noise and both the of the noises are coming from the rear driverside axle. I'M still looking for a cheaper option to replacing the rear half-shaft. I haven't found any and the steallership wants $320!
  2. Yeah but sad to say. I got on it this morning and I heard it again!!! I'm really not liking this! It's not as intense as it once was when my drive shaft had issues but its still there. Next up, replacing the rear half shafts!!! I will post what that does if anything...I'm pissed and now possibly looking at getting a different car...
  3. You got it done under warranty then! Its expensive otherwise. It cost me $600 just for the part. I don't know if they are different between the 5EAT and 5MT for sure. They claim they have different part numbers so I needed to give them my VIN to figure out wich one was for my car.
  4. I would be carefull, Inspect your driveshaft first before you start ordering. There are other things back there that can make the same noises, and without a video of someones car making the noise its very hard to pinpoint the issue. I took my drive-line apart and inspected everything. I found 1 issue, repaced the part and I have no more issue.. I can see it coming back because we have a very week driveshaft, but seeing there was some changes in the design I have my fingers crossed!
  5. Ive, gotten the rear diff to make a noise before. It was definately more a clicking noise then growling/clunking when I had a flat tire and the diff had to compensate. I thought I blew a half-shaft or wheel bearings, then I noticed the rim was almost hitting the road. Put the spare on and the clicking went away! Got a new tire and it's never made that noise again.
  6. I just replaced it with a new one on the 24th, last Monday. Now did you do the work yourself, Did you replace it with one from a wreking yard and did you compare shafts? I'm surprised Subaru redisigned the shaft. I don't know when this redesign took place, but the new one I got based on my VIN number is definately different...
  7. I put it in the car before taking pictures. I'll have to jack up the car this next weekend and do some comparero shots. I was in a hurry to get my car back up and running. I did some more aggressive launches today and it was smooth as silk! I also did a 180 while launching sending the rear end out into a four wheel drift, this too was smooth as silk! The 180 would always produce the sound and this time nothing.
  8. also my new drive shaft that I ordered from the dealer, had a slightly different carrier bearing and mount for it. The carrier sat lower making a straighter approach to the rear differential. The rear u-joint mount was slightly different too. The rear u-joint had longer and heavier ears on the side that mounts to the yoke of the diff. Looks like they redesigned it slightly strengthen things up and reduce flex that caused the rear joints to loos their grease! Substantial change! I even had to bend my heat shield ever so slightly to make room for the new carrier bearing location and keep it from contacting it.
  9. Well it gets down to the 20's at night here some winters and this winter it did just that! But I used to get the noise at any temp, it was just more noticeable on cold mornings. Hey wait a minute, the title of this post says nothing about cold weather! PS. I don't get this noise anymore!
  10. I highly doubt its a lowering issue. I had the noise when my car had the stock springs in it. Same with others that have replied to this post. I think you have fed yourself a placebo like some that have put in bushings. Have you "REMOVED" your drive-shaft and check the u-joints physically? You said, this is kinda vague! As you put it, "inspected" doesn't necessarily mean taring a-part and physically checking the parts! It usually means taking a flash light and a piece of cardboard to lay on and looking at stuff. I can lead you to water, but its your choice to drink it!
  11. Cool. I just wanted to give another angle to look at, if you physically inspected everything like I did then it must be something else. Or we are describing two diff. things here. I inspected everything and my initial inspection of my drive shaft while it was in the car was good, no issues! It wasn't until I removed it when I noticed the binding and grease marks. Nothing was noticeably loose while in the car. Mccorry is you car lowered? why shim it? My car made the noise before lowering, after lowering with Tien Flex Coilovers which it made the noise at all height's I've adjusted them too. Or did you shim the sub-frame?
  12. A good way to stop it? Yeah we do, inspect your rear u-joint! If its bad replace the shaft. If its not that, it's something else! Your car should not make that noise, lowered, modded or stock for that matter! I wish the drive shaft had serviceable u-joints! Any noise your car is making with the stock bushings (unless they are blown) will only get louder with stiffer urethane bushings! I assume the only reason people have had varied success with bushing mods, is because the u-joint at the beginning stages of failure will be inconsistent. Inspect your u-joint! If its good take your drive shaft down to a drive line shop to see if its balanced. Next inspect your differential, rear axle shafts and wheel bearings. Rotate your tires too, to see if the noise moves. Every time I replaced soft bushing with harder one, I increased the NVH heard through the cabin! Hey, I guess if this is not a good way to stop it for you! I have another suggestion, buy a louder stereo, it worked for my fan relay problem!!
  13. inspect the shaft before buying one! Inspecting the drive-shaft is pretty easy you can check the rear u-joint without removing anything accept the four bolts holding it to the yoke of the diff. While on jack stands , remove those (extremely tight) four bolts and push the shaft towards the front of the car. Once off the diff, feel if the u-joint has any play or is binding. If you see the grease stripes like in my picture its pretty much blown too! I hope this helps..
  14. I shopped a little and found one online rebuilt $375 plus shipping, plus $60 core charge. I personally didn't want to bother sending my core in the mail and the cost diff from rebuilt to new with the core was nominal. I also wanted to keep old one to look into making a stronger set up. So $375 + 60(core) + 60(shipping) = $495. Dealer here wants $530 new!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use