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Pazuzu

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  • Location
    Indianapolis
  • Car
    05 LGT 5MT
  • Interests
    street bikes, dirt bikes, basketball
  • Occupation
    a weak one

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  1. If i was you, i know it sucks. I would check the compression, lets see those plugs while you are there. Then i would pull the downpipe and check turbo condition. That mileage if the turbo is sloppy it could be a time bomb. You can download a diagram of all the hoses and make sure they are all routed correctly. If there is anyone in your area with a tactrix cable you could really see what's going on with your car. Might even be worth it to load a stock tune into it just in case the car was previously modified and parts removed before sale. People selling cars not running well is always iffy. Who was the person you got it from? Did you get a back story at all? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  2. Nah you will just be on wastegate boost I cant even remember what stock wg is set to. I think its like 7 or something. The boost controller just tricks the wg into thinking there is less boost than there actually is so you can boost more than wg spring allows. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  3. Check the ball joint for play if you guys suspect an issue. Found you a video Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
  4. Sounds like a loose sway bar end link dude. Grab a 14mm and 1/2 in ratchet. Slide under the car (probably no need to lift it just your arm will be enough). Where the end link mounts to the countrol arm tighten that thing down good, real good. If you have after market links (moog or something) its probably a 15mm. Do both sides and then go for a drive. Mine settled like once more then i tightened again and thats been that. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
  5. Yeah man this has been over a few times, common mistake. You can definitely install them so the nipple faces away from the lca. Ive done the install also myself so I know personally Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
  6. I doubt it will over heat them. The issue, as has been laid out in another thread, is that there is a significant volt drop with the wiring to the fpcm. Then there is more volt drop in the fpcm itself. Further more a small volt drop from fpcm to pump. After all that your pump is only getting 11.5v or something. So you never get the flow that the pump is rated for. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks for the response hammer down. I didnt wait and wired mine last night. Good to know another lgt guy has done it first. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
  8. So did you do this mod or just bypass the fpcm completely? I destroyed one of the pins for the fpcm harness and I'm considering just wiring around it. I guess a few sti guys have done that. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
  9. I installed these recently without the tool. Ball joints are always a b---- imo. The tool might save you a lot of cursing and frustration for sure. With that said they both came off with a BFH. One was particularly difficult. I had to take the knuckle and control arm off together and ran it over to a buddys house so I could securely hold it while he pounded on it said BFH. It gave us a struggle for a couple minutes but we won. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
  10. Will 5/16 hose and some fuel injection clamps work without the quick connects? Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
  11. I think that #26 is actually the oil filler neck to VC seal. I'll know for sure by the weekend as I'm almost to that part in my assembly. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
  12. Awesome, just trying to get this all straight myself Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
  13. But that oring is not #5 its #3 in the OP,and there is 4 of them right? You are saying its #5, but its #3? #5 is 806932030 qty1 crankcase o-ring. its red, or orange, or not black (im color blind)
  14. anyone wanna sell me a set and make something off it ?
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