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coldsubycz

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  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Car
    05 LGT 5MT AVO380 AVOFMIC ID1000

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  1. I'm in for this kit if it will work on an '05 LGT. I e-mailed Cobb last month and they replied a week later and basically said "no". But that was one customer service rep. I've been running e85 for 4 years now in MN summers and winters. Having flex fuel would simplify things. If you've never run e85, it's a transformation liquid, lots of fun. Code, I have an AVO380 and AVO FMIC with e85. Just to give you a power difference idea: my car stock on a very, very LOW reading dyno was 185whp and 205wtq. Tuned for e85 I get 335whp and 360wtq.
  2. Could some of this be attributed to our cars having single AVCS where as the STI (at least the '08+) having dual AVCS?
  3. Turkeylord... holy cow! That was an awesome write up! I wish I would have had that when I did my install last year. Your craftsmanship is above and beyond! If you want to use the drawings I did a few posts up in your write up, go ahead. And if you are coming down by the Twin Cities I'd like you to redo my wiring because yours is so good . Again, thanks for the awesome write up!
  4. Between taking care of the kids today and studying this thread here are some diagrams I drew. I not good with computer drawing programs. The first diagram is for someone just getting into this. The second is optional for someone like me that did the old way of wiring. The third diagram is my current install for comparison. Please review the first "2013 FPCM wiring" diagram to make sure I have it correct.
  5. ^ So do you think the NASIOC guys/gals would be laughing at this thread because for them this is "old hat" ?
  6. Just so I can clear this up in my head: You used this MK3 fuse and installed that "plug-n-play" in the fuse box under the hood instead of cutting the wire up by the alternator and installing a diode? If my thinking is correct, which fuse did you replace in the fuse box? (I'm sure I can figure it out, just being lazy, but also want to verify! ) Thanks again for all this work!
  7. I have the same pump that you do. My tuner said the same thing that yours did. My tuner said that my system was running fine, but it seemed that the pump was not "giving it's all". I did the upgraded wiring, albeit last years design and all my fueling issues on e85 went away.
  8. The STI fpcm is "better" than the Legacy fpcm. If you just swap the Legacy fpcm to the STI fpcm there is a "slight" increase in voltage if everything is left stock. Upgrading the wiring and running power from the battery and either running it thru the new STI fpcm or direct to the pump is the only way to up the voltage. I upgraded all my wiring to 10g and used a new relay to run power thru the "new" STI fpcm. But that was soooooo last year . If I was running a larger pump than the DW65c I'd run the wiring like the guys are doing now. If I have time today I'm going to draw out the new wiring to compare with the way I did it.
  9. I'm the guy from (Page 13, Post# 192). A lot has happened/been discussed over the past year since I've done the "original" mod. So like I've said been running my setup for 1 year now with a DW65c/STI FPCM with no problems. Mine is running full power THRU the FPCM. So after reading the rest of this thread I should change my setup to gain direct voltage to the pump AND prevent the FPCM from burning out? Is that correct? OR should I just leave it alone? I wouldn't need to retune after doing this, would I?
  10. Any news on this? Did you get the parts yet? Really excited to see numbers, but more importantly shape of the dyno curve.
  11. I've been running my 04 STI FPCM re-wire project now with e85 (e70 right now) for about 4 months and is working great. Granted I don't drive the car everyday. My tuner was really shocked that my car's fueling problems went away after this mod. So I'm very grateful for this thread! I'm running a DW65c so I'm not pulling the amps that some of the bigger fuel pumps would pull. So I don't think I'm over taxing the FPCM.
  12. I too would like to know as I'm looking at the 5500. Your install looks really nice! You worked the gaps nicely. On a weird side note I'm also in MN and my tuner's name is Shane
  13. ^ I might as well say it first.... Any pictures?? Would love to see how well you matched everything up. So you didn't have to over drill any of the screw mounting holes?
  14. Hope you don't mind me asking this in your build thread, but where did you pickup your Suretrac R160 and did it really come with the Spec.b aluminum dif member? Looks like you have installed Whiteline KDT903 rear dif inserts. Why not do the Whiteline KDT906 rear dif mount bushings since it's all out? (Pressing out the old and pressing in the new??) Now you need to install the front dif for the 5MT! I had that put in last year before winter. I'll tell you, one of my most favorite mods. Completely transformed the car. Regular driving, feels just like stock. Pushing it hard in the corners, thing feels like a true AWD car. It just pulls the front out of the corners and snaps everything back into alignment. It feels like it takes away all understeer and oversteer, truely amazing. And I still am on my OEM suspension!
  15. Great thread and a pretty amazing turbo! Read all about it yesterday and was pretty impressed. I was curious as to the cost of a stock location system and recommendation from an AVO380. I e-mailed Fullrace yesterday and already got a response back. Wish I would have know this a few months ago, because the FR route is a lot cheaper than what I did. Mmmm... maybe I need to sell so stuff.... Thought I'd bump this up since I have some info. Here is part of the response e-mail I got back: ************* Thank you for your e-mail. I think the EFR6758 will be a good turbo for the HP you are looking to make. The Kit uses your factory lower manifold then our single scroll T25 up pipe is attached to that. - The 6258 will be a quick spooling turbo, rated at 450hp, but might require more boost to the the numbers you want out of it. Here's more info. 1. I would like keep around the same power or more, but not loose too much of the "quick" power delivery of that turbo. I was thinking that the 6258 would be more of a lateral move, but was wondering if the 6758 would still give me the quick power delivery? (My power goals are 310+whp on 91 pump gas and 360+whp on e85. Stock my car did 185whp on my tuners Dyno Dyanamics. With the AVO380 I'm at 278whp on 91 and 330 on e85) The EFR 6758 will be the better choice for this new set up and will give you a great response as well. 3. Can you guys weld in two (2) O2 bungs in the downpipe right after the turbo. Yes we can - the cost for this is $55 per bung. 4. Does the downpipe have a CAT? (pictures look like it, but just want to make sure) The down pipe doesn't have a CAT, however I can see if one can be added to it. 5. Cost of the 6258 and 6758 turbo kits with 1.5 scroll up-pipe to EFR turbo, dual O2 bungs in downpipe, all parts 2000 deg. coating. Either the EFR6258 or the 6758 are $1461 - The T25 Up pipe is $495 - the down pipe for this set up is $610 + $110 for the bungs. Thermal coating on the Up pipe is $70 - The down pipe is $110 - FREE coating on the turbine housing($80 value) + the Kit Box which is $340 - The total is the $3196 + shipping. 6. Products in-stock? Or time frame from order to parts received. Turbos are in stock, Up pipe in stock. The down pipe will need to be built and then coated. Usual turn around time for this is about 3 weeks. Let me know if you have any other questions or want to place an order. Jon Guerra
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