fishbone

All of it. You don’t seem to understand how a Cobb Accessport works and what it’s capable of, which is why it’s better to sell it to someone else. It’s not just a power chip. It can do a slew of parameter monitoring, act as a boost gauge, change a few parameters on the fly and most importantly data log. Data logging is the most important aspect. Have you pulled a single data log? This is coming from someone that has done extensive data logging and some level of tuning by using Accessport in conjunction with Accesstuner Race. Yes you are. Start with identifying what hardware is on your car. Better yet start pulling some data logs before you blow something up. If your Spec.B has an STi turbo it shouldn’t feel down in power. Or maybe it feels down on power because by modern standards, it’s slow. If you are running a VF52 or an STi turbo on a VF46 tune that’s a problem. You got two choices here. Throw money at a shop to take your Subaru and figure out exactly what it’s running, get it tuned and give you the keys back ready to go, or get involved and learn a thing or two. You don’t seem receptive to the second part and I don’t want to derail this further so I’m out.

I’ll try. Go ahead and sell it to someone that knows what they’re doing. You need a pro tune some other way.

I've done both tables and I couldn't tell you for sure if it's placebo or actual performance changes.

I can't recommend bushings for a daily driver, unless you're pushing enough power to squish the stock ones. I have the Rallitek blue insert in my trans mount and tend to regret it when it gets cooler outside. According to Rallitek, they developed their inserts as a response to the engine pushing 400hp and squishing the stocker. I'm nowhere near close to that. Unless you want to feel vibrations in the dash, console and floorboard, and hear the engine, don't do it.

I'm not aware of there being different versions. I just checked on their site and the differences come in if you want dino, blend, or full synthetic. It's the viscosity that matters, so just get 75w90 of whatever formulation you want. I went with the full synthetic.

Only if I don't end up using a prybar and sledgehammer, because after trying it the first time and failing, second time I'm definitely going to be more pissed. The only items I took out were the glovebox (basically just the door that opens), and the covers for the air filter. Maybe others have had success with that, but I did not. The whole passenger side bottom plastic part under the dashboard needs to come out, otherwise I don't see how the job can be accomplished, and I have yet to see a DIY guide for that part. Luckily, I have the Legacy service manual. And I am comfortable pulling the stereo out since I've done it 3 times while doing a proper AUX-IN mod.

I think I will follow this procedure to replace my vent actuator and then just take it in to the dealer as is, and have them swap out the airbag. If they balk, then I'll document my car up the wazoo and then hold them up to the job. Taking the dash apart is not a 45 minute job, and the SOA recall letter says this is a 45 minute job, so clearly that indicates taking the dash apart isn't the way SOA is suggesting going about it.

Great with the horror stories guys, now I'm completely discouraged from having the dealer do this, especially since they did say they would take the whole dash apart, when in the recall letter it said this is a 45 minute job. So, as Scooby2.5 correctly pointed out on the procedure that sounds like the right one, have any of you been successful in "talking them into" doing it that way, or is there an official SOA resource I can point them to? My 2005 has an impeccable interior with no rattles, and being OCD, I'd like to keep it that way.

Right around the 100K mile mark I would just do a transmission fluid replacement and keep the car for longer.

That's because you live in Minnesota, where it takes 30 minutes for anyone to move at a 4-way stop sign, because everyone is being nice to everyone else and insisting they go first. Lived there for 4 years. This is Dallas area now. In the 3 years I've been here, I've spotted more exotic cars than other Legacies

Oh don't worry, that feeling will be right back when you pass by one and they don't wave back.

JMLegacy, is this done in RomRaider? So last time I messed with any tables regarding the 5EAT was to alter the requested torque in a couple of them, I forget which tables exactly, I can go back and look. My point being, is there anything else I can adjust if I'm using AccessTuner Race? I think the requested torque I have in there is like 400Nm or something like that. Has there been any new development since those days when we were just messing with those two tables for those of us using ATR? That's basically what I'm asking. I'm pretty sure ATR also has the shift retard tables in there, however I don't see value in messing with those. The TCU basically signals the ECU to pull timing when the shift point comes, and I think that's a good thing, right?

I stand corrected.

The CVT is at its best when it's left to its own devices. Adding more pre-programmed points that act as gears defeats the purpose of having an infinitely variable transmission that is able to select the optimum RPMs depending on circumstances.

Thank you for sharing. And you know what? Even if some mods add zero power, if they improve drivability, they are worth it. When one of my TGV banks failed, I had two choices: replace the motor or pay $$$ to pull them and have them ported/polished. Everyone told me not to go that route because it's not worth it as it doesn't add power. I don't know if it did because I never put it on a dyno, but it did improve overall throttle response and the way it accelerates. Was it worth spending however many hundred bucks it cost more? Yep! So if you say your tune and mods improved throttle response and that you're happy, I have no reason to doubt that.