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Kookookachew

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About Kookookachew

  • Birthday May 2

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  • Location
    Near Syracuse, NY
  • Car
    '06 Legacy GT sedan; '93 Legacy L Sedan
  • Interests
    Cars, computers, anything else with a motor
  • Occupation
    Controls Engineering intern at NE Controls LLC

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  1. Thought I'd pop in since I've been so busy with my 1st gen, and you guys started talking about EJ22E Turbos I am actually in the middle of turbo-ing and RWD manual swapping my '93 AWD 4EAT L The manual is all bolted in aside from the rear shifter bushing which I lost So a new one will be here on Friday... I've also wired that in which was rather easy after finding the right forum pages As for the turbo swap, I'm running my stock EJ22E block, heads, and ECU. But running an EJ22T intake manifold with injectors and IACV. I'm running a bugeye intercooler, a 1st gen VF11, a Foz XT turbo manifold, a cat-less '06 LGT up-pipe, and a 3" Bugeye wagon catted turbo-back. I'll be monitoring AFRs with an AEM wideband, and boost with a ProSport electronic boost gauge, also picked up a 1st gen (5-dial) SAFC to do some fine tuning, although from months of research and knowing others that have actually done these builds, they run reasonably well up to 8psi on just injectors, or with just an 8:1 RRFPR
  2. Well, it wasn't today, but it was yesterday, and for the past few weeks... Been continuing my work on the many dents and poor paintwork of my '93 L But its getting there, and will look pretty darn good when I'm done. Also, on a separate note, I went RWD yesterday. It is shockingly easy to do so with a 4EAT as well, and from what I've heard if you know how to weld, or have a buddy that does its easy in a 5-speed too. Anywho, I had already wired in a center diff-lock switch for 50/50 on-demand which is covered very well on rs25.com and I picked up a set of used front CVs from the junkyard for cheap. I proceeded to remove the outside splined hubs of the CV shafts by removing the boot and just knocking the ends off with a hammer, they are just held on with a circlip which allows them to just pop on and off. I pulled my CV shafts, (took about 25 mins), and then bolted in the outer splined end of the CV shafts into the cars hubs to keep the wheel bearings in place. Bolted the wheels back on, made sure my 4x4 button was depressed and went for a spin! I can say that despite some peoples beliefs, the center clutch pack is completely strong enough when the duty C is applying full lock to run in RWD and do whatever you want. I was able to spin the rear tires on dry pavement easily, get the back end to rotate around with just a goose of the throttle, and it just generally made the car a whole lot more fun to drive. I cant say how long the rear diff or rear CV shafts will last, but right now I'm running 2.2L NA power through a 4EAT so I'm not too worried, eventually I'll be manual-swapping and turbo-ing, so that will be the real test. And for pics, heres one fo the non-existant CV shaft and a little test in the garage. Disclaimer: I was being careful and just applied the brakes and gently applied more and more throttle to test and see if the center clutch pack was going to slip, it didn't and the tires did, and I was ok with that. P.P.S: My center clutch pack was working exactly as it should before this, AWD functioned normally, FWD functioned when fuse was inserted, no binding etc.
  3. Looking good! Hope you get over that headache, I know how bad painting can be. Cant wait to get my Leggy to that stage a bit later this summer. Also, is that an SVO Foxbody I see in the background?
  4. Haha yes, I know a little old L will never be worth much, I still want to save it as much as I can. The rust is purely surface and localized so after some grinding/sanding and proper prep work the body should look fairly decent again, and I'm hoping to get it painted the STI/WRX? Color Java Black Pearl. I have a buddy who is going to spray it for just the cost of the paint and he has decent skill and all if the proper professional guns and accessories so it should look pretty snazzy when I'm done
  5. Haha, luckily there is next to no rust anywhere else. Coming from Colorado its extremely solid. And yeah, I realized last minute we didnt have any newspaper lying around to mask with so I improvised
  6. Theres no ABS so I dont think that I'll be able to get a signal there, I also pulled the instrument cluster and there didn't seem to be a vehicles speed signal. I did notice that there are two Vehicle speed signals coming out of the TCU so I'll try those, if either of them dont work then I'll try the VSS coming from the ECU... If anything I'll figure it out. Also, been going wild with the body work. Previous owner did a number on it, lots of dents and just slapped flat black paint and bondo right on top of the original paint, which looks like it was really nice under where the flat black flaked off, it was dark metallic grey. Also was in a bit of a fender bender, and I've been working on straightening that out as well. Hood stripped down... http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1026_zpsa8d0e0fd.jpg Drivers door partially stripped, alot of the bondo work had already shipped off leaving behind bare metal to rust... http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1027_zps079fce98.jpg Rear bumper pulled off to help strip and straighten... http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1029_zpsf608afb8.jpg Still lots of work ahead... http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_1032_zps0952bad1.jpg
  7. Well, last night I was somewhat busy tinkering... Picked up a pass. side wheel well liner, passenger side visor, dome light lens, radio surround bezel, inside mirror trim pieces (Those little triangle bits), timing belt covers, and even the little latch piece for the hood prop rod. Since all of these things were either broken or missing thanks to the previous owner Then went about installing everything. Removed the snorkus box from the pass. wheel well before installing the fender liner because it was broken and flopping around, and I like the increase in intake noise Re adjusted the panel gap on the pass. side fender since it was all out of whack as well. Also pulled the gauge cluster to hook the Forester compass/temp/barometer/altimeter gauge pack speed sensor wire up, only to realize that these old Leggies have a mecahnical speedometer with a cable... Completely didn't realize that... Oh well, I'll have to read through the FSM some more and see if there is any sort of electronic speed signal anywhere on that car, if not I'll have to settle for not having it
  8. Decided to put the 4x4 lock switch to the test on a nice day in NNY Its hard to tell the extent of the steepness of the hill, and the height, but its quiet a doozy... http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_0692_zpsb4760a50.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_0693_zps7395eddd.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_0694_zps9822b7d4.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af213/ClarksonSportsCarClub/Subaru%20stuff/IMG_0695_zpsc2a29d4b.jpg
  9. If you are interested in doing the sport mode mod pm me your email. I'd be happy to send you some scans and try and walk you through the process. If I'm correct though, 2nd gens dont have any sort or indicator light so you may not be able o tell that its on other than how to car drives.
  10. ^^ Awesome deal pleaidestar!! Wish I could find a set of decent looking rims and tires for that But anyway I did some more fun custom electrical work This time I wired up the "Power" mode on the 4EAT to be controlled by a switch. So now I have a very OEM looking "Sport" button next to the shifter. This makes a massive difference in the entire feel of the vehicle! Although it is still an auto, its no longer miserably boring and slow to respond, and the car just feels much better all around. Shifts are much more positive and not harsh or sloshy, just about right. Downshifts come on sooner and with less provocation and upshifts are right in the sweet-spot so no early "boggy" shifts. I my opinion this is how the car should have come from the factory... Also wired up the FWD fuse system to a rocker switch inside of the car... So now I can either lock in 50/50 torque split, enable FWD, or engage Power mode all with the push of a button and while driving
  11. Last night I wired up the mod so that I can lock the AWD into 50/50 on demand. All thanks to defcon5 over at rs25 :-)
  12. Did some more work to the project Legacy. Pulled out the rest of the interior pieces and then cleaned up the floors and primed and then laid down a few layers of rubberized undercoating to replace the sound-deadening that I had to scrape up. Waiting for that to dry I replaced the plugs with some new NGKs and also replaced the knock sensor and cleaned the MAF. The knock sensor was definitely why it wasn't running right... Had a really loppy low idle, no power, and sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders, and also had a CEL for MAF and knock sensors Also replaced the broken off side mirrors and tinkered with the mess of wiring that the PO had made in the doors for aftermarket speakers... Runs like a champ now, and still waiting for the undercoating to dry... Once thats done I can install the whole new leather interior and new carpet from a '99 LGT
  13. I was planning on getting around to one... You've inspired me to stay awake and start now
  14. Had an awesome junk yard day! At U-Pull-U-Save in Syracuse, NY I managed... The passenger taillight and center piece, passenger turn signal, MAF sensor, door panel pocketsand speaker grills, a complete set of seat-belts, rear quarter window trims, front windshield trim, both power mirrors, a factory amp+sub out of a 3rd gen Legacy, Leather seats in perfect condition from a '99 Legacy GT including carpet, tweeters, and premium speakers, and a rare information center from a forester that I want to try and retro-fit, all for $71.50!!!
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