LittleBlueGT

Interesting, I haven't been tuning a lot lately due to building a house (and a really really nice garage). But I may have a new STI on order by the winter.

Interesting about the target boost value. That being said, I don't think Bill has ever written anything like that in his ECU analysis area in RR. Although I do learn new things everyday. FWIW everytime I have seen FLKC go up, it was evidence by an increase in knock sum. Also, if you raise the load value for IAM evaluation, you don't stop the ECU from reacting, you just stop it from using IAM as a way to react, it can still use FBKC or FLKC.

Then change the IAM load parameters, can't remember what it is called off hand, but it is the part that says what loads the ECU can make changes to the IAM. On my old LGT with my clutch I had to have it not change IAM unless the load was above about 2.0 or so.

Doesn't affect me right now, but thanks for doing this research. Helps the community a lot, can save a lot of people a lot of troubleshooting time.

True statements, but may I add the required 4th gear high load scenario. None of these will spool anywhere close to that in 2nd gear, which is used a whole lot for many DDs in the city.

That is not normal. Properly tuned that will not happen. (unless you had a bad tank of gas or something)

Knock sum results in one of 4 things: -nothing -FBKC (usually seen when load is quickly changing) -FLKC (usually seen when load is stable) -IAM change (usually seen after FLKC has already retarded things a bit)

Read the RR stickies, but yes, knock sum increments once, FBKC will go to -2 (unless you changed the value) then it slowly decays down to nothing. If you had another knock event and FBKC had already decayed down to -1ish then it would go up to -3.

1) if you have E85, then use it 2) FBKC w/o knock sum makes no sense whatsoever, post a log 3) if you have low load knock events affecting IAM, then change the IAM ranges to something 1.5 - 4.0 load, so stuff that happens at .8 load never affects IAM 4) it can take a long time (depending on all sorts of things) for IAM to get back to 1.000. Just reset the ECU if you are sure there is not an issue.

That was my ideal set-up (before the EFRs came out). Jeff Sponaugle (sp??) has a nice write up on NASIOC on his GT3076 .63. I don't think you want the GTX3076 w/ .63 a/r. The exhaust housing is already limiting the GT3076 old wheel, it will not be a good combo on the GTX IMO. The replacement is likely the new GTX3071 w/ .63 ar housing. Should have the same power potential as the old GT3076, but with a little better response. If you want the higher end power of the GTX3076 (which IMO is a little over board on a street car, 400 whp is enough) then go with the .82 housing. Or............................. you could get a TS EFR7064 and make about the same power or more, with better response.

Interesting. There are different ways to set up those tables, and it is not wrong, just different, the end results can be identical. But no, you are not flowing 475 g/s, that is seriously GT35R territory. In fact you would need to be pushing 30 psi to hit that g/s territory. So not ragging on your car, it does sound like a nice 20G build.