Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

boostsr20

Mega Users
  • Posts

    881
  • Joined

3 Followers

boostsr20's Achievements

Experienced

Experienced (11/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. I see your in GR. where are you dynoing at? Who did your tune? I'm in Muskegon and would love to get a ride in your xt!
  2. Same here on Windows 8. Get the code 10 failure notice and can't get it to connect.
  3. I'm lowered on H techs. It was definately worse on the stock struts but I can reproduce the noise at will when its 40 degrees out.
  4. Thats what I was hoping for as a fix. I've got the window welded rear bushings and just put Bilstein HD's on. No dice, still does.
  5. Tell me about it.... WGDC and Target boost were all zero'd out.
  6. Yup, FWIW when I was running my vf40/18g with a deadbolt 15psi actuator I was peaking at 19 psi and holding 15psi at redline all with the WGDC tables zero'd out. When it goes back on the car I'll be using a stock actuator.
  7. At this point I don't think its a power level thing other than the weakening of bushings over time. I can produce this noise at near no throttle taking a right hander sharply from a stop and I've already filled the rear mounts and done the rallitek race trans mount. I think its a combination of mounts but here is a wierd finding. We all know that it lightens up as the car warms and get more miles per drive cycle. Well, since the temps dropped I notice that the noise is Much worse when I don't use the blok heater overnight. When I use the block heater the noise isn't as bad in the AM. I've done this little experiment numerous times. I'm guessing some of the bushing in the front are also aiding in the noise. Filling the rears and doing the trans mount definately helped but I think the motor mounts would halp some too. How hard is it to do the lowers with the engine in the car?
  8. If anyone is looking I know a guy thats selling a used STI setup. Sti 6spd trans with lsd rear end and dccd for $3000
  9. Filled mounts and trans bushing and I'm getting it now in the 20's. They helped alot until it got under 40, now its back.
  10. I filled my rear mounts when it was about 65 degrees out. It took a good month for the window weld to stiffen up and make a nice difference. Reason being, I didn't use an insert of PVC like others did to my window weld was in there pretty thick. If I did it again, I'd probably use the inserts or do it when its nice and warm out.
  11. Great Idea. I had to helicoil one on already. This is a better alternative.
  12. Lowering the car definately weakens the bushings faster but I'd still do the 2 easy fixes to help alleviate the inevitable.
  13. I did until I filled the rear mounts with window weld and put in the rallitek Race trans bushing. I still get it ever so slightly on really cold mornings but only when 1/2 throttle turning right from a stop.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use