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WhatV8

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About WhatV8

  • Birthday 03/07/1969

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  • Location
    Streamwood, IL
  • Car
    17 MINI Clubman S ALL4 / 86 Mustang SVO
  • Interests
    Tinkering with cars, chatting about cars...cars.
  • Occupation
    Manufacturing/Mechanical Engineer

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  1. Brand new, never used/installed set of wheel locks (T3010YS010). Got these with my former Legacy and just found them cleaning out one of my cabinets. Here is a link to confirm application fitment: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Wheel-Locks--Steel-Wheels/49926584/T3010YS010.html $25 shipped CONUS. Let me know if you have any questions.
  2. I have had good luck with Autolite units with my other vehicles, including a 2002 Forester, so hoping the same will be true here. I do know certain makes are 'sensitive' to certain mfg plugs and will be paying close attention to things over the coming months. Current vehicle replacement plans are for a new ride in May 2016, so I will be hauling around my wagon for another 16 or so months. Still trying to decide on what to replace her with, certainly something with similar size/utility/capability. Have to see what the 2016 units will be offering up.
  3. I certainly appreciate the write-up on the plug change, certainly made the job go quicker! I am by no means a stranger to tools and an engine compartment, but this is the first 'major' engine maintenance I have really done in the 8 years/92K miles I have owned my car. I was having fits of misfiring whenever my car would sit for a day when it was cold and damp. The misfires would last anywhere from a few seconds to a couple minutes, so I knew I was in need of new plugs at a minimum. I purchased up a set of Autolite Double Platinum plugs (APP3924) and a set of Napa Belden Edge wires (BEL 700063) and hit the garage. From my experience on my 2.5i there is no need to move the fuse box, plenty of clearance using (2) 3" extensions getting down and pulling back out. Taking my time and sopping out oil from two of the plug tubes it was ~1.5hrs, not too bad for a first time. Two of the spark plugs were shot pretty good as can be seen below. Measured gap was .085" on #1 & #4, while the gap was .046" on #2 & #3, kind of strange, but the way it was. I gapped the new plugs to .039", down from the .045" they came out of the package with. Little bit of anti-seize on the threads and in they went. I checked the resistance on the original wires and compared to the new units, there was a slight improvement on the new units, as expected. The longer, driver side original wires measured ~14Kohm vs ~10Kohm for the Napa units. The shorter, passenger side original wires measured ~10Kohm vs ~7Kohm for the Napa units. What was nice is the Napa wires were all numbered just like the OEM units, so it was virtually impossible to mess that up. Car fired on the first turn and ran quite well. Glad someone mentioned it was 'normal' for the engine to die when coming to a stop. Mine did this every couple of stops for ~18 miles, then suddenly kicked back to a normal idle level, so I am guessing that was the ECU going through its relearning procedure. Been fine since. Two of the four plug tube seals are obviously shot, but that project will have to wait for a later date at this time. I had a good 1" or so of oil at the bottom of tubes #2 & #3, while tubes for #1 & #4 were completely dry as evidenced in the pics below as well (i.e.- threads).
  4. Just had my first occurrence of the P2138 code on the way into work this morning. I was slowing to a stop at a light when the car lurched forward just prior to coming to a complete stop...made me think I bumped from behind. I tossed the tranny into neutral and noticed that the tach jumped up to 2000 rpm along with a check engine light and a flashing cruise control light on the dash. I tried blipping the throttle to see if it would kick down the rpm and no response...drats! I immediately hit my flashers and was able to idle my way to a parking lot just off the intersection without any drama. I shut the car off for a few seconds and tried to restart, but it wouldn't catch after ~15 seconds of cranking, so I again shut off the ignition and waited about a minute. This time it kicked right over and settled down to a normal 700 rpm idle, but the check engine and cruise control lights were still on/flashing. My throttle response was back on and I not only made it into work but all the way home w/o any issues. Thanx guys for posting your fixes, I will get some contact cleaner and start with my pedal's connector. Hopefully I will have the same success.
  5. Yep, I have a 3.0R ABP Outback Sedan down the street from me. I can always tell it is him when he turns down the street, you can't miss the 3.0 Boxer sound.
  6. RGP GT Sedan 05-06 model with tints and Illinois plates "YLW WRX 1" headed SB Barrington Road in the Hoffman/Schaumburg/Streamwood area. Was alongside you with my Subie for a few blocks.
  7. ABP GT sedan NB on Barrington Road between Old Church and Golf Rds, Tuesday morning ~7:10am...anybody? I was carpooling in my wife's Forester and pulled onto Barrington NB and noticed it at the light. It seems on my route between Streamwood & Palatine you can't swing a dead cat w/o hitting an OB, but rarely ever seen any Leggy's.
  8. Another newbie to the Scooby world here in Streamwood. Not a GT, just a 2.5i Ltd to replace my former SVT Contour. I have a weekend toy, so nothing fancy for the daily drudgemobile. L8R.
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