nads

I get this too and that F&%$ing sun glass holder rattles like hell.

If you do headers plan to get tuned and yes to more power. If you just want a noise change get a catback for a GT.

The downside to the stock projector housing is that it is made of plastic and could be prone to burning the bowl which will diminish light output, so that is the potential risk over time. Just something to lookout for if you start to see the performance degrade. What temp color of bulb did you get?

This. You wont regret the TRS full swap. Been using mine over 2 years and have 3 three rough winters of getting beat up. I have yet to need to replace anything but assume I will in the next few years.

More cores can help and hinder by blocking air flow through the fins, typically that's 3 and 4 row stuff. Have you pressure washed (or just washed out) the radiator fins? My friends Dodge 2500 Cummins was overheating and thats what made it go away. Airflow is key. I'd drop the skid plate and see if it allow more flow out the bottom.

How much does your skid plate block off? Your engine bay is a low pressure zone when in motion, as air enters the nose/hood scoop it need a place to exhaust the convection cooling of the radiator, engine, condenser, etc. It has to exit at another low pressure zone, so under the car or out the cowl at the windshield. Are your fans kicking on?

Did you do a continuity check of the pins on both switches to see if the old one had a cross connection or was different somehow? Something is drawing a lot of current to do that.

Looking at that Deck, it should be a drop in. Scrolling down it comes with a bunch of harnesses. Looks like they have a Q&A on that page, might ask them.

My fix this morning wouldn't work. Damn Spotify wouldn't connect on my Pioneer deck so I could crank some Falco. Been down the chasing mystery noises path on other cars. At this point unless something falls off, becomes something I can identify or increasing audible I'm ignoring it. Mine is quiet until I drive on a washboard type road, then it's clap clap clap. My fix, I stoped driving on that road.

I've noticed lately a "clunky" sound over minor-ly rough roads at slow speeds. It sounds like a plastic on plastic slapping sound. More of a clap clap clap sound. No noise over speed bumps and no binding. All stock and presumed untouched 62k mile suspension too.

Sell it. Not worth the noise and/or hassle to tune. Best 3.6r mods for the money to make good gains are in this order: -Basic maintenance -Suspension: 26mm Front bar, 13-14 Springs and dampers, Whileline 22m rear bar as a basic daily package, go wild from there. -Tune -Raptor Headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe and a Tune -Raptor supercharger, headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe and a Tune -Raptor supercharger, headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe, cat back and a Tune -Custom build spending a ton of cash to have a hot 3.6r. See XRT for a tune.

Be cautious as there are non-LED fogs too for the 15-up Mustang.

You should start a new thread but I think there is more to it as I think the Outbacks lift comes from more than the struts and springs. Like dropped subframes and different suspension arms.

Brake boosters can cause a vacuum leaks too. Just went through this with my dad's efi 5.0 swap in to an 82' GT. We replaced everything from the ECU to any and everything that can effect the idle. We'd think we got it and it would come back. The other day he drove up and I was standing outside and as soon as he hit the brakes the idle would surge, let of the brake and it would smooth out. Bad Booster. Got the 26mm bushing yesterday. Hopefully will install them over Christmas shutdown.

Bought. Merry Christmas to me. Thanks!!!