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grimsleeper

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About grimsleeper

  • Birthday 03/26/1975

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  • Location
    CT
  • Car
    '11 Evo X GSR, LS2/T-56 FD, '06 Foz XT
  • Occupation
    Sikorsky Aircraft

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  1. +1 I think it's commendable that Bryan is stepping up to resolve this issue - on his own dime no less, a character trait not too common these days (pride>$$$). Looking forward to the revised pipe.
  2. yep the outlet is pretty much perpendicular to the flange, fwiw I did not have the same issue with the stocker. The COBB outlet is definitely larger/longer though. It also tapers outward toward the base and does not allow the hose to slide all the way up, which isn't helping. I've been so busy working out other unrelated issues that I'm finally getting the time to go back and clean some of this stuff up.
  3. If you're sure your intake, inlet and vac hoses are sealed I would just pressurize the fmic by disconnecting at the turbo and putting a tester cap on the end of the J pipe. Then disconnect and seal the TB end. Put compressed air through the test cap fitting and spray around for leaks. Soap is fine. What other driveability issues are you noticing? Low/late boost, low idle, stuttering on accel? A leak from the ic will affect boost but not always idle, a vac leak will usually affect both. I don't think there's any danger in using RTV, I just tend to avoid the mess unless it's absolutely necessary.
  4. ^^^ this. Most of the time a lumpy idle from engine vibration is a result of a boost/vacuum leak. Since you are experiencing it right after the install I can almost guarantee that's the problem, visual checks aren't going to get you very far though. Just because the clamps are tight doesn't mean there's not a leak, you need to pressurize the system. The switch from top mount to fmic should not cause much (if any) more vibration than usual.
  5. I removed the drivers side bolt attaching the hose to the manifold, are you saying there's more than one? I didn't see another but will take a look at the FSM to be sure. I also had to disconnect/reconnect a wire harness that was preventing the hose from being pulled further away from the manifold to get it where it is. Looking at the bottom of my COBB bov it looks like this thing may be clockable, though it's not listed in the features. If that's the case I think rotating it is going to be my best bet.
  6. I would look again... I can see in the third pic you posted above that it is not the same length on both sides. I'm pretty confident if you angle the long 3rd pipe up a bit (rotated counter clockwise from the front) and flip that pipe around you'll be ok. btw you're bpv return hose is not NEARLY as kinked as mine:lol: Seriously though I need to find a more permanent solution for this... http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=605&pictureid=3260
  7. It looks like the opening of the 3rd pipe (running along pass side) is angled too far down, are you able to clock it upward at all, possibly by readjusting the pass side core pipe? I think this is directly related to your issue with not being able to get the core pipe inside of the tow hook. Pics of mine: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=605&pictureid=3250 http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=605&pictureid=3249
  8. It should definitely not be symmetrical on both sides of the weld (well mine isn't, anyway), looks like you may have the wrong piece.
  9. Have you tried flipping the bend pipe that connects to the J around? I got the best results with the weld closest to the J-pipe coupler, opposite of how you have it in that pic.
  10. I went back to look at your pics and realized you already had the coolant inlet clocked so I deleted the post. The third clamp in that pic was from burping the coolant system before putting fresh ones on - I didn't feel like doing it again so I put the worm clamp on while the hose was in place.
  11. Thanks Bryan, I want to reiterate that I am not in any way trying to knock this kit. The things I listed are pretty damn minor compared to issues presented by other kits (I've also installed the AVO and SSAC on other cars) - especially considering the benefits, and if I had to do it all over again I would still buy it in a heartbeat. I did actually play around with the rotation of the hotside pipe a bit during the install and it made a huge difference in alignment - just looking to fine tune it a bit. In retrospect maybe I shouldn't have even listed it as an 'issue'. I used to install and now do CAD designs for mission kits on Sikorsky helicopters, so I know first hand how complex it can be to make a kit work amongst a hundred different variables. I have great respect for the fact that you stepped up and created something to address the shortcomings of other kits from major manufacturers, and honestly hope my comments don't dissuade others from buying yours. That was certainly not my intention.
  12. Maybe you should take your own advice. BTW "flush" does not mean the pipes are touching;) For some odd reason you've turned this into a pissing match. I pointed out a few trouble areas with this kit and as far as I'm concerned they are still valid - regardless of your championship trophies and experience with late model Bluebirds:lol: Apparently this kit takes a seasoned veteran with 20 years of HVAC experience and a best friend who races pro to install correctly:rolleyes: As stated for the third time, I'm not looking for help or even remotely complaining. I already know what I need to do to get this where I want it. Nothing I listed as being 'potential issues' are a result of an incorrect install, unless you are saying the pipes shouldn't be anywhere near the bolt, or the FPR cover. Just because you put a piece of heater hose between the pipe does not mean an issue does not exist. It's called a workaround. I'm simply stating it's one thing that should be watched. You seem to feel these things should be common sense (which we're in total agreement on) and don't need to be brought up in an INSTALL thread. It's also common sense that you disconnect your battery before working in the engine bay, but you still see it mentioned at the top of every instruction sheet;) I can see this going nowhere quickly, so I'll let others decide if the info is useful to them. There's really nothing else to say without polluting the thread with more BS.
  13. Instead of having a pile of hose sections set aside for every oil change why not just remove the bolt? The cover's not going anywhere. One less thing to worry about. What's funny is we're basically saying the same thing. I want the fitment to be perfect as well so I am making a few minor modifications to get it that way. You said yourself the kit was not made for a '05, even if I had known that before I bought it it wouldn't have made a difference, I only expected it to be close enough to be able to make it work - so it actually exceeded my expectations. You're preaching to the choir when you say these things should be checked on a regular basis - although the cover bolt cut through that aluminum pretty damn FAST:lol:, but for those that did not do their own install they may not know what to look for. I'm sorry man but I gotta ask, how is any of this relevant? I still don't get what you're trying to prove.. your resume doesn't change anything that was stated in this thread:confused:
  14. So you are saying that the two pipe ends are flush inside this coupler (notice the beads)? http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=605&pictureid=3246 That was the only point I was making, and it contributes to there being some 'play' in the hotside pipes on MY car, I'm not going to speak for anyone else. Like I said I'll fab up a bracket at some point, not a big deal. Some people might not even notice or care, or have the issue at all. I do know of one other '05 that had the same problem. I still think it's a good idea to attach the core to the rad support once everything's been connected and in place - especially if you are driving the car hard. Looking at the pattern of the cut I had in the pipe there was about 1" of vertical movement, was that also installer error or just good 'ol physics at work? Why would you rationally disagree with this?
  15. Wow, you are taking this way too personally. I'm not sure why as you did not create the kit, I understand you two are friends but let me clarify. I am not crying about any of these issues, or asking for your supreme guidance, or even an explanation:lol: I'm posting this so people are aware of potential issues and hopefully catch them during the install rather than after. What exactly do you need to see pics of? Mine looks the same as yours. I addressed the TB pipe/FPR issue during the install with a piece of flat silicone adhesive, the timing cover bolt did not seem to be close enough to warrant a grommet after the install. I overlooked it and didn't want others to make the same mistake. Maybe it was mentioned somewhere in the 4 running threads for this kit but I did not see it. My fault. BTW if you do any kind of sustained hard driving that bolt head is going to cut through the heater hose like butter:lol: Not exactly a solution imo, but good luck. Good job on the mechanic/Johnny Knoxville analogy:confused: I'm sure you are infinitely more qualified than pro shops that install these things daily and see a wide variety of designs from different manufacturers - NONE of which come with any kind of meaningful instructions btw;) Who even mentioned your skill with a wrench? Why so defensive:confused: If this many people are screwing up the install because of their inferior skills then I would think you'd want this info to be in one central place so there's no surprises. Or were you planning on flying out to personally install everyone's kit exactly the way it was meant to be, the msprank way?
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