MeoW71

Well, I went and did a pressure test. No leaks detected when I pressurized the system. I let it sit around 10min at ~16psi and the needle did not even move. I even did a dynamic test after releasing the pressure and the needle didn't move from the bottom. I have two OEM radiator caps and they both tested good. The only odd thing that happened is when I removed the radiator cap this morning after letting it sit overnight (+10hrs). There was the sound of fluid running and I actually had some fluid spill out.

Trying to figure out why the coolant is not being pulled from the overflow tank after the car sits overnight. I've done the following: Replaced radiator cap, checked overflow hose (and put 45 degree cut on end per a tsb) and searched for obvious leaks. I'll say that the overflow tank apparently gets filled to the top and overflows when I do extended highway drives, but that doesn't happen when just drive around the city when doing errands. It doesn't look like coolant is being lost anywhere, because when I pull the radiator cap and look it, it's always at the same level, except after a highway drive and its puked out from the overflow tank. The one last thing is, 90% of the time when I open the radiator cap to check, it's like a vacuum seal is being broken. There is a pop, and sometimes I hear the sound of fluid moving briefly. Just looking for other things I could check, or possible solutions before I take it to my mechanic. EDIT: Just to add. Hoses are firm when the engine is warmed up. However, I do hear the brief sound of fluid moving under the dash when I start the engine cold. The only time the fluid level drops is from the previously mentioned highway cruising where it pushes even more fluid into the overflow tank.

I was trying to determine where I was getting an oil leak when I noticed that there was a hole in the bottom, center rear timing belt cover (see attachment). I'm pretty sure it isn't supposed to be there. If it isn't, I'm going to guess it isn't a good idea to leave it like that, even though it possibly has been like that for a year+. As for the oil leak, apparently the dipstick tube is not all the way in, I can see one of the gaskets for it.

I post all that and forgot to state that I wanted to have a stiffer spring also. I did look at King springs, but it lowers a lot in the front, and than raises in the back. I might just go with the 5MT GT Wagon springs and get 1/4 spacer for the rear.

Trying to figure out what springs to get. Probably going to get pinks, but need to decide which ones. Car is a 05 Legacy GT Wagon 5MT. Going to use Koni's for struts, along with replacing (most likely) the front strut mount with Whiteline KCA409 camber/caster mounts. I've gone through the JDM suspension thread, and a few other posts with wagons and pinks, and most go with GT Wagon manual ones. However, I want to avoid lowering the car as much as possible, so was thinking of going with the GT wagon auto ones, and using a spacer on the rear. Now, based on this post http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1324817&postcount=87 it looks like the GT-B springs are longer than the GT ones, at least for the front. Of course this is for the sedan. The wagon GT and GT-B share the same part number. This should limit how far the front drops even more. The GT-B wagon rear (ST2038021020) has a different part number than the GT wagon (ST2038021010) Some unknowns if I go with the GT-B sedan front spring (ST2033021020) and GT-B wagon rear spring (ST2038021020) since I don't think I've found any good posts with these installed. Best/safest choice might be GT wagon auto springs with a spacer in the rear? Unless somebody has some other inputs in using the GT-B springs. Lastly, not sure why the part numbers are different across different threads. JDM suspension FAQ has a listing, but http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1270851&postcount=55 and http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1783481&postcount=1 list part numbers differently.

That was only for the front of the 05+. The rear ones are still the same as 02 WRX+, at least for the GD model. The STi just used a different hub on the rear, the bearing was the same. Has anybody actually tried bolting up a the STi front bolt-on hub/bearing on the Legacy yet? You will only get the benefit of the wider wheels if you can't do the full hub/bearing replacement. Lastly, the GD STi uses a tone-wheel and not the magnetic pickup for the ABS, so it possible you will lose ABS. Not a big deal for racing purposes thoug.

As for me, quote for tribeca bolt-on front and rear hubs, along with the bolts to attach the bolt on hub, if they are the same part for the legacy and the tribeca. If not, than there is no point.

Wrong. WRX to STi swap only requires that they change to the 05+ STi knuckle/hub/strut on the front. Rear only requires them to change out the hub. I keep considering doing this, but until I have another car, I can't afford the downtime to do this in a practical manner.

You don't. There have been a few who talk about doing a 5x114 conversion for the stronger hubs and wider wheel selection in that area. I've poked around at it because I have a couple sets of wheels from when I had an STi. I still might do it, but it will probably cost around $900 parts...that would include generic Legacy brake rotors being redrilled to 5x114 bolt pattern also.

There is no scheduled maintenance on the wheel bearings. Both the front and rear ones are sold as a single bolt on item. You can not order the parts separately. As for miles. Really depends on how much you are abusing it. Driving around normally? probably a long time. Autocross/track/silly stuff on winding roads, not as long. At least it is super easy to change them out, unlike a WRX. FYI for those who wanted to try the 5x114 ones, the STi ones will likely bolt up, but you will lose your ABS as the STi has a tone wheel, while the legacy has a magnetic pickup built into the hub assembly. Plus, the rear bolt on one is different from the front. In either case, the Tribeca ones could possibly work, but as far as I know, nobody has tried it out yet. I might in the future, haven't decided yet.

I'm sort of interested in this because I have some wheels from my 05 STi that I could use on my legacy. From what I can tell, the 05-9 legacies use bolt on hub/bearings for the front and rear. I know the 05+ Sti uses bolt on hub/bearings on the front, so it might be possible to just bolt up those hubs to the Legacy front knuckles. You'd probably have to change a couple other items also, but I'm not sure at this time. It also looks like the 08+ Impreza uses bolt on hub/bearings for the rear. Somebody said the Tribeca uses them also. So, you might be able to bolt up the hub/bearings directly to the knuckle also. I can't do much research on this right now as I'm in the middle of a move. Quite frankly, the reason I'd do this is because the STi hub/bearings are stronger.

If it had texas plates, that was probably me. I'm up in Manchester, NH now. I'm annoyed because the paint decided to peel off the front bumper now.