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timmafod

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About timmafod

  • Birthday 05/28/1980

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  • Location
    Central NJ
  • Car
    05 OB XT 5MT & '92 Miata 2.5V6T AEM
  • Interests
    Spending time with my wife. ::gasp!::
  • Occupation
    Mech. Engineer & hobby fabricator

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  1. McMaster-Carr #92095A250 Currently $5.03 for 10 of them. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92095a250/=17z94u0
  2. Hey I know who you are. Nice pics Scott, I like how you used the heat shrink tubing. I was able to remove the pin from the connector on my obxt and my brother's lgt without removing the clip. I prefered to use no solder at all. http://www.absurdflow.com/obxt/maplightmod1.jpg Best mod ever, especially on sunroof wagons.
  3. It's been almost a year since I did this MOD to my wagon. IMHO still the best Mod I've done because there's no light in the front on a limited wagon due to the sunroof pushing the interior light to the back seats. For christmas I bought my brother all the parts for this Mod on his 'new' LGT, maybe $5 worth of stuff. Yep, if you get something silly wrong/swapped, that $5 could easily cause $$$ damage.
  4. I realized I never posted pics of my outback install. If these pics don't show, please hit refresh or F5, or they are also here: http://absurdflow.com/obxt.html Dead nuts centered: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic1.jpg '05 outback bumper beam...upside down in this pic. The smaller section on top needs to be removed. About 15 min with an angle grinder with cutoff wheel. http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic2.jpg Beam after cut and the same size as a legacy beam: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic3.jpg I cut off a lot of metal and plastic, some can be seen here. Not difficult to do. http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic4.jpg To reuse the stock airbox, cut off the little hose clip things. I used a standard die grinder with a crosshatch steel bit: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic5.jpg Hotside pipe showing why you need to remove the hose clip things from the airbox lid. Other than that, lots of room: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic6.jpg I cut/rolled my coldside pipe before hand, using the included hump hose & clamps...awesome. http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic7.jpg This is why itsme sent us all a replacement stainless buttonhead screw: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic8.jpg Fuzzy engine bay pic: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic9.jpg The only small issue is the BOV flange could be rotated slightly so the OEM hose isn't as kinked, but it still works fine and could be much worse.
  5. What is the easiest or most common way to check for leaks in the intercooler piping? Do you guys make some sort of contraption that you pressurize (I've seen this done using PVC piping and a regulator for your air compressor), or do you use soapy water sprayed at each joint and hope a leak would form bubbles while reving it at idle, or...???? I still have an annoying whistle above 6psi or so that comes and goes.
  6. I am using the OEM airbox with my '05 outback, just trimming the hose tabs like previously mentioned. I didn't remove the other portion of the airbox (the half that bolts to the car). Very simple. I get a loud whistle around 2500rpm when the turbo to first ~120deg bend joint is misaligned, which is easy to do on my car. Sorta like blowing across a beer bottle...whoooooooooooo. Definitely feels a lot slower when it does it, like some sort of wicked harmonic that f's up the flow. Those are the only two pipes that do not align pretty damn perfectly. I have to really torque the one pipe to get that joint aligned as closely as possible, tighten it down, then tighten down the next joint down the pipe.
  7. I finally got around to installing my FMIC this past weekend. Pictures coming once I download them from my camera but until then, here's my $0.02: I could have swore it's been done on an outback but searching this thread for "outback" results in nothing (until now ). This resulted in CON #1... Cons: 1. My '05 OBXT Limited has a different bumper beam than the one pictured in the first post. It's a taller rectangular 3 section beam instead of a square cross section beam. Much taller than it was wide. About 15 minutes with my 4.5" angle grinder/cutoff wheel and the lower beam section was gone and the pipes fit as designed. There was zero chance of the pipes fitting otherwise. 2. OEM BOV flange could be clocked an additional 10-15 degrees. Works fine but not perfect. Minor. 3. The air temp sensor (sandwiched between IC and radiator) now reads warmer than ambient temps, but at least I know the IC is working well! I didn't notice if there was enough wire to place the sensor above the intercooler. 4. Maybe very slightly more lag. Maybe. Pros: 1. Everything fit great (after bumper beam cutting and other cutting noted elsewhere in this thread). I am still using the OEM airbox and after removing the hose clips from the side of the box it is even easier to install than stock. Minor trimming needed in bumper "mouth" and under tray to clear pipes. 2. I can hear a turbo whistle now. Fun 3. I use my OBXT for towing a ~2500lb boat; noticeably more power during prolonged boost/less heat soak. 4. Just driving around town the car feels quicker, not sure if this is just in my head though. 5. Overall a killer deal. I now need to find a front plate solution and research what sort of timing increases I should play with. Thoughts? I'll post pics soon. -Tim
  8. Pulling the pistons to check would be smart. I tend to not be smart however. I only had the car for 4k miles, right where I usually change my oil (I use royal purple, wix filters, and commute ~55 miles one way to work). I was at least a 1/2 quart low...when putting the oil in I was half way up the dip stick, at disassembly I wasn't on the stick at all, but there was a "decent" amount of oil in it. I never noticed any smoke at all ever out the tail pipe. The intake tract on the other hand was coated, there seemed to be puddles of oil everywhere inside there. I'll be installing two catch cans (one in crankcase PCV line, one in valvecover vent line) when it goes back in. I see there's clever ports for removing the wrist pins. How do you make sure the small end of the connecting rod aligns with the wrist pin hole in the piston when you reassemble? Oh, when it's out I'll also reinforce the oil pump pick up, I hear these crack.
  9. This is all excellent information. I am currently in a rebuild of my 96xxx mile '05 OBXT after a burnt exhaust valve on cyl 2. After MUCH consideration I decide against also redoing the block with forged pistons. It is a gamble especially with my plans for this "daily driver", but if I loose a cylinder again, I will just have to yank the engine out and fix it. Fortunately these subarus are very simple to work on. With respect to being at stoich under boost, with the factory tune my car did remain closed loop/14.7AFR until around 3-4psi. The "stage 1" tune I am running now, based off a tune posted on romraider's forum, turns off the factory counters for the CL/OL fueling switch and now runs OL much sooner. It's actually off the scale rich on my AEM WBO2 (<11:1) which IMHO is better than high 14's under boost The pistons have major carbon build up even with running two tanks of BG44K and seafoam through it before the tear down.
  10. I finally got around to doing this mod today. I went with a solderless route as I do not have a soldering iron at home but I do have a ton of crimp connectors. Like others here I slip the anode end of the diode under the flat part of metal and around a screw to hold it in place. The cathode end (end with gray ring) gets trimmed a little and crimped to a short section of wire. I used: 1. A package of "IN4005 rectified diodes" from radio shack, #276-1104. I do not know if these are the best for the application but they work. 2. Two "red" butt connectors 3. One "blue" female spade connector 4. One "red" male spade connector 5. One splice connector. 6. a few feet of 18gage wire I disconnected the 20amp fuse (#8 in the engine compartment, used vacation pics to find which is #8), very good idea as it's nearly impossible to not touch the two power terminals together when you swap them in the connector. This took the longest time of the entire mod, figuring how to take the wires out of the connector w/o destroying everything. I had to use one flat eyeglass screwdriver from the wire side to pry one part up/out, and another flat from the terminal size to pry up/out the typical clip, and a third hand to pull out the wires (I used my mouth cause I'm that good). Pics: http://www.absurdflow.com/obxt/maplightmod1.jpg http://www.absurdflow.com/obxt/maplightmod2.jpg Running the wire around the sunroof was very simple, the trim piece just pulls away. I figured it was held on with glue but that's not the case. Very simple. http://www.absurdflow.com/obxt/maplightmod3.jpg A BIG thanks to the OP for this mod.
  11. I am using a cable from ebay that looks exactly like the one you posted. Blue connector, clear/silver cable, same sticker on the "driver" cd. Interestingly enough, the cd did not have a driver on it, but only had a link to the same website in the first post of this thread. However I used the most recent ecuflash and tactrix drivers included in the ecuflash download. New Dell netbook with winXP. Everything works perfectly, including romraider and learning view. I am also using this serial-USB converter with the default winXP drivers to datalog my gauge type AEM UEGO wideband within romraider's logger without issue.
  12. I do not get any chip info anywhere on the desktop/toolbar when I plug in my VAGcom cable to my dad's XP laptop. Regardless, after spending a few hours updating all the service packs on this here laptop (thing was never connected to the internet...ever), I loaded the "tactrix" drivers, which are bundled with the latest ecuflash download off ecuflash's website. Ecuflash version 1.42.2595. I attempted this latest ecuflash instead of 1.29a because of a note on RomRaider's site that their ecuflash definitions only work on 1.31 and up. http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic3808.html Anyway, ecuflash 1.42 worked as far as downloading the rom image from my ecu. I have not tried anything else yet; don't even have romraider installed. I'll attempt that next. EDIT: WTF?! Target boost drops to 8.5psi gauge at redline?! BBBOOOOOOOO. EDIT 2: Romraider's logger is working. It did not at first but after exiting out of the progam, the logger connected on the second try. Activating the logger with the rear defroster switch is pretty slick I must say...
  13. I don't see where you download tactrix specific drivers from tactrix's website. If I click the link on tactrix's site that says "You can download EcuFlash and the drivers for this product here.", it goes to ECU Flash's website, where I can only find various ECU Flash software, NO "tactrix" drivers. (The link for ECU flash 1.29 does not work on that site for me, I had to download it from an mirror site posted earlier here). I borrowed my pop's XP laptop to try it out. If it works, I'll purchase an XP netbook hopefully on killer sale on black friday. Bestbuy is going to have a compaq/hp netbook with XP Home for $180, walmart will have an emachine laptop with windows 7 for $200. Not sure if this cable and software will work with windows 7 though. EDIT after a few days off to calm down: Tactrix is openport 1.3/2.0, right? In that case, I will try ecuflash 1.42 and the openport 1.3/2.0 drivers
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