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CombatCQB

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About CombatCQB

  • Birthday 12/12/1978

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  • Location
    Rochester, NY
  • Car
    05 Legacy GT 5MT

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  1. I don't have my LGT anymore so these parts need a new home, prices does not include shipping. Paypal only and +3% if using CC. Spec-B aluminum front arms $150 SOLD - 3 arms in the set due to the original LH arm being bent so a new LH arm is included. The original arms has poly bushings and the LH ones can be transferred to the new arm. Also included are new OEM bushings, OEM mounting stud and LH mounting plate. Intake timing sprocket and belt tensioner $100 SOLD - both LH and RH timing sprocket never installed 13320AA001/13322AA001. The belt tensioner is 13033AA042 JDM center screen bezel $30 SOLD - Had a 7" display running a CarPC for a while using this bezel. I imagine it would be much easier to do today with a rpi.
  2. I'm curious if anyone knows if the hose clamps are loosening or just over time the hoses take on the clamp shape and hence don't seal as well? For the first one, I'd consider better clamps if possible. But for the second, it'll just be a reminder to replace hoses maybe after 150k. Also any thoughts on the idea of some rubber treatment to swell the hoses in places that the clamps can be seen but a tool can't reach?
  3. Do you have any input or advice on a similar problem i'm having with my car? I got an engine light and when I get it checked, the mechanic has replaced the cam shaft positioning sensor twice. The car still stalls. But here is the weird part. It usually stalls after the engine has been running for a long trip, if I shut off the engine for a brief stop, and get back in, the engine won't turn over. It also stalls when idling if i have my radio on. Sometimes in order to get my car to start, I turn on everything, radio, heat, and my lights before it turns over. I also have to have my lights on before it starts. The problem is it's intermittent. I've had the car in a very reputable garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.

    Should I take it to a dealer? It's a 1995 Legacy Brighton. This is the first time I've had the problem. it made it across country with zero problems. Please help. I'm at my wit's end.

  4. I've been digging around the parts databases and no luck with these. I need the stud bolt for the front control arm rear bushings and the support plate that fits over it. It's part 8 and 5 in the attached diagram.
  5. It's all documented here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79982
  6. I'm using roadrunner right now. But I might write it as a stand alone app first. maybe a java app that can be part of Jdash later on.
  7. I can currently capture and decode the data from the clock/trip meter with my laptop. I just don't have a fancy way to integrate it into my UI yet.
  8. Jazzy is the simplest option for stock systems right now. It is completely logical to bypass the stock radio and drive the speakers with a cheap amp directly from the PC. But then the stock system just sits there doing nothing. I would like to integrate the stock radio controls to the PC so that you can still use the interface for something.
  9. Just for comparison, my setup is a VIA nanoITX at 1GHz, 1GB of RAM. I started with a 2GB CF card for OS and 40GB mobile HDD for media. But after finding a few corruptions on the HDD develop (mostly my fault I think for to securing the HDD properly) I've switched to a 2GB CF for OS, 2GB CF for applications and a 8GB USB stick for media. I plan to add a DVD drive, but it's not a high priority. Video playback is a little overrated. I just don't find enough idle time in the car to watch movies. And it's down right dangerous while driving (and I have tried once). The two areas I spent to most time is the power supply and the SW optimization. The SW is still not 100% done, but part of the fun is to make this system uniquely your own.
  10. The biggest enemy to desktop parts in a car environment is heat and power requirements. That said, many people have and still use desktop parts in CarPCs. If space is not an issue, then it's really about finding or building a case that fits in the car. For power requirements, decide if you really need dual CPUs. If you want to keep the parts you have now, think about underclocking to reduce power. Thinking about changing the HD or DVD to mobile parts that also use less power. Pay special attention to selecting a power supply, efficiency is the name of the game. Start by estimating your power requirements, each component should have a spec showing their voltage and current which you can multiply to get the power in Watts. The key is to pick a PSU that fits the usage and not just the biggest possible which can mean more heat. In the past, people have used DC-to-AC converters and then plugged in regular ATX power supplies. This is very inefficient since you're coverting DC to AC then back to DC. Go with a DC-DC supply, I don't know how much a dual CPU will need but it'll be on the high side of what available out there. The heat (and cold) issue will require at the minimum very good heatsinks. Even with a fan, if the ambient air in a trunk could 50C already. So moving air will hopefully keep the CPU in operational temperature range. The more heat generating components you have, the more air you want to move. The good thing with some of the mobile parts is that they are rated for a wider temperature operating range. With cold temperatures, the one thing you can avoid is a slight reduction in LCD performance until it warms up. It's something everyone has to live with in the cold. Mobile HDD will work much better than desktop HDD here for sure since moving parts require lubrication and lubrication can harden when cold. One other thing I forgot to mention is boot times, once you have a setup running then you'll realize you don't want to wait two minutes for the PC to boot up before you can start listening to your music. There are tons of threads on how to optimize the windows environment to speed up boot time or use hibernate or even switch to linux in some cases.
  11. sebberry: no dust filter on the vents? BMac: Has anyone else tried phonco with iphone? I'm thinking if the iphone has special AT commands like moto phones do. But if it works on the Q7, maybe just standard AT commands will work fine.
  12. That TMR screen pops up every now and then. It is a good alternative to a full transflective. 600nits is considered the very very minimum for daylight readability. My only concern is the heat difference with the high brightness, but I don't think anyone has measured. I just bought some 3M film to retrofit into my LCD, plus I'm also doing something with the touch screen to help improve the contrast.
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