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kzr750r1

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    Nor Cal
  • Car
    2006 OBXT/1998 Toyota SR5 4x4 Kingcab

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    Doing it AGAIN!

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  1. Yes. All depends. Some may be using a red putty like material. Or tef tape. I've been using version 1211 lately, read into it a bit more at one point. Chemical: IE Fuel resistance is a plus. Of course I want the oil to stay in as well. This last ZRX and EJ rebuild had me going down the rabbit hole for added protection. In rare occasions gravity fed carb systems can fail on the bike and fill a crankcase with gas. Had it on hand while rebuilding the EJ a year or so ago now. No leaking on either. Nice part is it's thinner and has a longer tack time. Thin, brush it on. Keep it clean and fabam. Nice seal and little blowout extra silicon running thru your AVCS hosing your operation internally.
  2. The unit I picked up from Torque Solutions has Teflon Tape on it already. But three bond would work too. Just be sure to clean the threads regardless of what you use.
  3. Take your time. Prep the tensioner vertically as described in the manual/instructions. Slowly. Last round I did it twice. Was pretty sure one pulley jumped a tooth. In the end all good.
  4. Take a look at the hard crossover line from the head to the PCV system. I've had that lined with schmoo from not driving long enough distances. Remember oil accumulates moisture as it cools. Needs 20 or more min of run time to evaporate. Just put a see through case cover on the ZRX and reminded about this every time I'm starting it up. Oil looks like a milkshake till it runs for a long time.
  5. Be careful trying to flip the stock claps over. I tried last time and ended up putting them back together how they come stock... Essentially upside down when the manifold is installed. No matter what I was doing the extended threads would bump into something or another, not optimal. Even after cutting down the screw.
  6. Should have some residual from the initial install of pistons and what not. What crossover are you talking about? One on the top is coolant. My guess is the tie to the Oil cooler you're referring to?
  7. Well finally getting back to this. Found just the inner fin that was cracked off where I had stored the old GS splitter. Probably ditched the rest thinking it would be easy to get a new unit form GS if I ever placed it back in service. Well called GS and Nope! They will not sell me one. So out of curiosity wondering if you have one last unit available to install/try/modify.
  8. Yeah I had mine off as well. Hit the main connector terminal to just reflow the solder. Still no luck and lost one of the rubber mushrooms. In the meantime ordered another cubby from fleabay to see if it would make a difference. NOPE! I can slap it back into reading by hitting the dash just above cubby. Not hard... But hard enough at one point I guess cracked my old bezel. Water under the bridge at this point since the new fleabay unit is in really good shape. Time to inspect the wires. Need to tear into it any way at some point to replace all the air actuators.
  9. Was going to take some sunset shots yesterday evening. My plans changed with the weather and road closures. Tumble weeds were blowing all over the canyon and started raining heavy just before sunset. So I just hung out at a friends and enjoyed the evening. More soon.
  10. Alignment check up tomorrow afternoon. Going to test some more for rub tonight and confirm no spacers needed. Lock to lock no issue only seen some possible rub under compression on the rear inner fender that I may live with for now. It's tight! But looks like this combo will worK as I've hoped.
  11. 18x8 +48 Rota Gravel Hyper Black No spacers yet. Stock height. 245 45 R18 Michelin Pilot Sport A\S 4
  12. Castings are salvageable it seems. But new seats, valves guides and seals with a clea decking they will run for another 200K. Heat. Funky tune... Get your injectors checked out. #4 cooling mod should help the next build.
  13. You'll have to talk to Cryo over the phone and see if he can go OS, believe it was an option a long time ago... All depends on what state your in and intended configuration AP delete may be an issue, dunno, they will. These guys have been getting pinched pretty hard. Call. Talk to them about your goals and options. Was really happy with our interaction.
  14. So the air pump codes were bypassed for a delete or bad pump? Of course Cobb Stg2 is now going to enable all monitors. That's how there complying at minimum with EPA. If you don't have a tuner around get ahold Cryotune. Just get your car in good shape before hand... He'll send you a basemap for your setup and fueling. Do the revisions and fabam...
  15. So much faster to pull the motor and rip the heads off than working hunched over the fender. So much of the motor can be put back together outside of the car it's kinda funny. You'll get better at it. I always wondered why there was no talk of adjusting valve gaps. Figured it out we blow them up before needing a rebuild. Get the head studs, seriously. For a street car there is no need for the big ones... The torque procedure is soooo much better. Mine are on their second build. No stretch.... Heads are B or D? Either way will work. Just curious. For real get a custom tune. Just kinda bummed Cobb has gone this green route and we can't delete monitors any more. Work with a reputable Subaru shop that knows the HW. My first rebuild made so many mistakes. Mostly trusting the wrong people. Have been really happy with this last rebuild. M45 rebuilt the short block, Wiseco 100mm pistons, new crank and they donated some rods. This is the last bore on this block. Heads +1 valves, had the new valve guides in hand already from Infamous Performance. Had to buy new castings during the first rebuild, since one shop hosed my original heads. Had him add the valve guides for just in case in the future. So glad I did. Mike from Infamous hooked me up. Bummed he had to get out of Cali. But we understand.
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