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Tomkat1127

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  • Location
    The Other Side of Sanity
  • Car
    08 SWP LGT LTD w/5EAT
  • Interests
    Too many things that I can't afford!
  • Occupation
    Inside Sales Supervisor/Engineer

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  1. That's good but not for my wallet if the 08+ ever happens.
  2. I am not 100% sure. I have not seen the Cobb version. I do remember reading in the mSprank/Infamous/Stromung GB or GI thread that the Cobb system is single wall tips. We both may be right! Doesn't matter, both (meaning any Stromung made CBE for Legacy) can not be bought new anymore and that is a shame. The Stromung sounds good but is probably louder then Borla. Not that is a bad thing, some may like the softer tone of Borla. I wouldn't say my Stromung has a drone but at certain RPM's there is some resonance. It can't be too bad or my wife and two small kids would have complained.
  3. Stupid phone predictive text (and very tired, so was lazy and didn't proof read). That's the worse one yet...... Next time I will blame it on drinking.....
  4. Unless you find and buy a used Stromung, they are hard to find. There is the earlier COBB version with single wall tips and the Spank/Infamous. Version with double wall tips. My vote is for Stromung of course I may a little bias since I now own one. It's not quiet nor too loud. With a patted DP it has nice tone under acceleration and mellows out under cruise or part throttle.
  5. I ran across a company the specializes in manufacturing injection molding and they do prototyping. They are in China, so price, quality, and communication could be poor. http://www.hoda-mould.com/index.asp I have a contact name and email, if anyone wants to PM me to get it. I personally do not have the time to dedicate to such a project.
  6. I like to think Kia stole it from Subaru....
  7. I'm pretty sure I get that with a stock 08+ VB. If the TCU/ECM thinks you are trying to accelerate and it thinks it needs to down shift or if you were on the gas hard and then pull out, then it sometimes shifts a little hard. Not the only vehicle I have driven that acts that way. I just make sure that if a I commit to mashing the gas I also have the room to let it finally shift under power whenever fully possible. IMO, it happens to me more in Sport # (Sharp) due to the quicker downshift and longer hold point before up shifting.
  8. It's no biggie. I think most on here fully understand the busy aspect all to well. I know that I personally do not have time to invest in any side projects that may or may be make me any profit. However, if someone such as yourself takes on a project I am interested in. I have no problem taking a few moments to inject any ideas or knowledge I have. I had considered originally to order the JDM units not know how different they were. I also considered hacking the bump and creating two vent holes covered from the back side with some type of screen netting (like the gutter stuff people are using to make their DIY grilles), dropped that idea in fear it would look rice/ghetto.
  9. Good posting. Let's hope it gets some attention. Thks for doing that.
  10. Stop thinking about it and lets do it. We really need a solution to the 5EAT owners wanting better than stock performance.
  11. Right, I totally understand your Hex F1 is solely a mechanical change. You state that a software mod could do similar or better. In my mind (and that's a deep dark place that even I avoid) the ultimate would be a combination of the two. Mechanical mods to improve line pressures, spring changes, opening up (drilling), etc and any beefing up that can be done given typical available parts (not including custom parts). The electrical/software mods to improve transmission strategy for things such as the crappy shift timing, RPM points, etc. I agree that the programmer (he better be a damn good software engineer) must also be a transmission expert and quite possibly a electrical/hardware engineer of some type. IMO, if the ECU can be cracked, so can the TCU. It's going to take someone above me to do it! Our problem stems from demand. All it takes is enough demand from a group for a company to invest in the R&D to do it. That or a talented and dedicated DIY'er from one or more of the occupations above.
  12. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, AND THANK YOU. I will repay you by buying a CNT DP and misc parts that you can make some profit on, when/if this used Stromung deal goes through.
  13. Sorry, but I don't exactly follow here. What is the overall goal of running this program? Is this the tool we use to re-flash the TCU after someone has broken the code (kernel) to change the programming. Not that I can add any value to this. I am interested in possibly electronically changing the TCU for my 5EAT (along with a ClimberD HEX F? / Transgo / whatever mechanical mod for 08+).
  14. Yea, I guess that would have to reduce the noise. I can now see why you have 10+ rolls on there. Must be soft enough the OEM door seal still makes full contact or the noise would have increased or water leaked. I will not be doing that to mine at this time. Maybe, around the trunk. IMO my stock 08 is the quietest car I have owned. Much more so then the 05 Corolla I had. Then again I am accustomed to old trucks with drastic wind noise and other noise. I put 60 lbs of RAMMATT in the old 97 F150 when I upgraded the radio, that really helped. Still, it is hard to quiet down a brick flying through the air. Whatever works.....
  15. I'm having trouble picturing where this was installed too. Inside the door or around the outside edge. I'm thinking this is around the outside edges like a secondary weather seal. Wonder if it binds the door from closing at all?
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