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zx6rexx

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  • Location
    Lorton, VA
  • Car
    05 LGT stage 2

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  1. installed brand new idlers and tensioner installed the washer and the sleeve is definetly there along with the rubber seal...i am not taking it apart again since i got everything lined up perfectly... strange thing is yesterday i took the car out finally and the sound is gone now i noticed the car pulls a bit harder now thanks to the light pulley not a huge difference but noticeable i will keep an eye out over the first couple weeks for any new sounds or leaks but i think i am good to go and satisfied with the job.
  2. ok i have replaced the hose and no more leak, however, i am noticing a slight metal rattling sound cant pinpoint the location but i have a feeling its one of the tensioners or idlers... was there supposed to be a washer on the back of the tensioner where the bolt threads into the block?
  3. I got it on! you guys were right it took some patience and finesse but i was able to line up all the marks and the belt lines up 100% in the proper orientation it just kind of happend as i was pulling the belt over the top drivers side gear, everything else was in place and i rotated it in place and once the last idler went on marks were spot on! started the car and everything sounds fine, i noticed it sounds a slight bit louder with the grimmspeed pulley but i cant confirm that.. one thing though, i seem to have a small puncture on one of the water pump hoses and its leaking slowly, it must have cut a small bit of the line from wiggling that damn metal clip in place..will i be able to seal that up with some kind of rubber sealant or worse case with some duct tape and hose clamps?
  4. man that is a relief to hear...i am so frustrated right now by the drivers side, im scared i might get mad and slam something on the car! the passenger side is perfectly lined up as well as the crank lines...everytime i stretch the belt on the drivers side from bottom to top, it moves out of place ever so slightly, and not to mention when i try putting in the last idler on the lower left side stretching the belt up moves everything too! im taking a break right now to clear my head and ill try being more patient when i go back out
  5. i am re-doing it now...dont want to take any chances even with being a half tooth off.. i am following meatys video from nasioc ill report back when i line everything up again
  6. i was wrong about the misalignment, looks like i am half a tooth off on the top when the double ticks are perfectly aligned on the bottom as well as the pasenger side is perfect too...i still need to take off the crank pulley again to see where the crank marks are lining up sorry cant post pics tonight as i am at work, but will try tomorrow
  7. i used the gates belt as well..i wasnt really trying to match the lines on the belt as much as i was trying to keep the ticks all in line with each other, and this is where i believe the cam rotated about a tooth off and threw itself out of line with the mark on the upper cam.. ill post a pic soon to give you a better idea
  8. i pulled off the cam sprocket covers and double checked last night..the double tick marks on the cams are 1 tooth off on the drivers side and the top passenger side single mark is about a hair off from the mark on the timing cover..the wierd thing is the the side marks are spot on and the top drivers cam is lined up perfectly to the top mark on the cover...i believe the lower gear spun a bit as the belt gained tension is this within a certain acceptable spec or should i pull off the tensioner and belt and redo everything? i have not pulled the crank pulley bolt back out and torqued it down to 95ft-lbs again when i was manually cranking the engine, i did not hear or feel anything unusual
  9. want to clarify something..i did the timing belt and had a hell of a time aligning the marks when installing the new belt. in the end, i got the top, bottom and side marks aligned to the best of my ability and installed the new belt. however when i went to rotate the engine a few cycles, the cam and engine marks were slightly off. I dont feel any binding or hear any noises while manually turning the engine, but want to clarify if i am within spec and good before i put everything back i think the method i used to install and remove the crank pulley bolt had something to do with the off lining marks..i used the car in 5th gear, brake pressed method and naturally got some forward and backward movement when i went to torque the bolt in either direction..
  10. to be honest, i was looking at the gates WP and was disappointed. the cast aluminum is poor quality and has some obvious imperfections..i believe its the only peice in the kit made in China. if i had to do it over, i would buy the gates kit without the WP, and get subaru oem WP and Tstat..i still think this kit was a good deal and it saves me some money to buy the grimmspeed light weight crank pulley..
  11. might as well do everything while you are in there...i am at 96k and bought the gates timing kit (tckwp328) it comes with everything except the thermostat i got it on sale from amazon last week for $193 not sure the price now but it does jump around..i am going one step further and changing out the crank pulley while i am there too.
  12. Thanks for the insight guys..im thinking of grabbing the konis now while they are on sale (20%off i think) will probably get the fronts for now and save up a bit more and get the rears later..hoping to have my wheels/tires and suspension set by time summer rolls up
  13. Just wondering if anyone had installed H&R springs on the Konis. I am looking getting the Konis but want something with a little more drop than the Epics seem to have
  14. zx6rexx Lorton, VA 2005 Legacy GT Limited Sedan Garnet Red
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