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lang

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About lang

  • Birthday 10/16/1959

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  • Location
    SLC, Utah
  • Car
    2006 LGT manual
  • Occupation
    mechanical engineer

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  1. NY dragon slayer, Nathan encloses the board in clear shrink wrap but this allows the shrink wrap to over shrink and expose some leads by having them poke through. He is working on a design iteration to eliminate this but in the meantime examine your board if you have any leads poking through the board and compensate appropriately. The board is trapped between the head unit and the changer and could easily short out. I recommend using electrical tape to further insulate and duct tape to capture or restrain the headphone lead you have plugging into it to keep it from flopping around. It is too much trouble to disassemble the dash again to fix it in the future. Art (very satisfied JazzyEngineering customer)
  2. ..JazzyEngineering's AuxIn mod board. I just spent part of the afternoon waiting for the turkey to cook and installed mine. The Ipod sounds GREAT now although it will sound better when I set up for using the Line Out instead of the headphone jack. Gotta cruise the forum to see how others are mounting their Ipods for use, charging and LineOut use. Anyway, the whole thing went well. Thanks for reverse engineering and developing the whole thing Nathan. Packaging, instructions, and parts were all great. I have some install instruction suggestions but I will give you those offline. The ribbon cable female connector on the radio itself DOES have conductors on one side only which is different than the ribbon connectors on your mod board which can make electrical contact if the ribbon is inappropriately reversed. My wish list for your next generation would also include: 1) no silent CD 2) use Aux In of front panel switch (present but not enabled) 3) include the patch cable in the kit 4) include female connector to install, optionally, surface mount on the radio bezel somewhere Now you should hire some help to build your mod boards so you can start engineering us some more mods ! :-) (line outs from the head unit to bypass crappy bass compromised amplifier, reprogram the dang auto-environmental control, etc.) Art
  3. Well some more information for this active thread. Thanks for starting it Craig. I have a new 2006 GT. When the AC light is on, no matter what mode, the air conditioning compressor clutch is engaged and compressor is doing its thing - compressing the freon-replacing CFC so it is ready to expand and cool down air flow. With the AC light still on the clutch will cycle on and off to maintain the correct CFC pressure for this cooling operation. It doesn't need to and actually doesn't run full time to keep the CFC pressure at the correct level. It does run most of the time and the amount is dependent on the cooling effect needed related to variables such as ambient temperature, solar load, etc. You can watch the clutch cycle on and off as needed. My statement is supported by my observations of my new car as well. You can watch the clutch engage and disengage and it's behaviour in various modes by simply lifting the hood and watching the clutch on the front of th AC compressor. It is easily visible without removing any engine covers and with the window open you can even hear it from the drivers seat after a little practice. Engaging or disengaing the clutch blips the engine rpm very slightly as well and this is discernable. This rpm blip signifies the additional load required to drive this compression process. From memory this loss is not trivial equating to 5-10 horsepower parasitic loss and a resultant loss in fuel efficiency and mpg. The AC light and AC compressor come on at many inappropriate times not only the times necessary such as cabin cooling with a high outside temp or when defrosting. This is an unnecessary power loss and fuel loss. I have voiced my opinion to my dealer to no avail. Just some bad software design decisions and poor usablitity testing.
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