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BigBopper

I Donated Too
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  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Car
    '10 LGT , '14 Foz , '16 OB

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  1. This is the low pressure intake side to turbo. In OEM configuration, 1st nipple on left side comes from L&R valve cover breather hose ports. Next nipple to the right comes from crankcase vent below PCV. These two nipples/lines introduce the oil mist/blow by you are trying to eliminate from the intake, by installing the AOS.
  2. 2010 LGT does not have the electronic check valve ("white sensor"). Don't know about 2011 & 2012 LGT.
  3. Hey, don't forget me too! I removed both also. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5100783&postcount=337
  4. Looks like it got bent during supplier handling or shipping, causing the coating to flake off. It also looks like it has a defect (blemish/depression). Did you sign for it at delivery? Is the box beat up like it was dropped or crunched? You may need to file a claim with the shipper. Contact supplier/manufacture and see what they can do for you. If they're willing to work with you for a replacement, see if you can have them double box the new one. Good Luck
  5. Hope these help you with the PCV valve replacement project. BTW, I found some cracks in my hose that you can see in the photo by my thumb and forefinger.
  6. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5297783&postcount=5
  7. Can you verify the boost pressure is actually what the engine (ECM) is seeing. If the boost pressure was actually lower than what is being used by the ECM, it seems you would experience lower performance, as you are now... ? Throwing out ideas.
  8. Reference photos: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5137498&postcount=8
  9. The OEM header is double wall piping, which may make modifications unreasonable.
  10. The first "damper" is more of an expansion chamber, that over time and somewhat aggressive clutch pedal activation (and likely, accelerated by cold fluid) will cause the baffle plate to fracture (Surley). Removing it will lessen the somewhat vague clutch/pedal feel, which we all agree, is a good thing. Removing the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly from the slave cylinder will eliminate the restricting orifices. This allows the clutch fluid to directly activate the throwout bearing during engagement/disengagement for a unrestricted action. By removing it, you will definitely notice the difference in colder (fluid) temps. These devices were installed to lessen clutch induced shock on the driveline. As installed they do what they were intended to do. However, at the cost of vague/mushy pedal feel and slower disengagement of the clutch disc which causes unnecessary wear.
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