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BMXBYKR

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About BMXBYKR

  • Birthday February 25

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  • Location
    Kansas City, KS
  • Car
    05LGTwagstg3.5/13 Tundra/08 Rap/15 FZ-09
  • Interests
    anything outdoors and of course cars and trucks
  • Occupation
    Railroad Tie Gang Ops

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  1. I have the exact same issues under boost. I have the V3 as well. Very interested in the culprit.
  2. Hey fella's. Well since my last dyno tune I've upgraded to the following: DW 65c ID 1000 inj IPT top feed conversion with line kit JDM TGVs BNR TD-06 20g FMIC 38mm EWG setup Perrin Turbo inlet Greddy BOV full atmo There's a whole mess of other things I've done but are irrelevant. So after the installs, I brought it down to Dave at Cryotune. He did his smoke test and found some small leaks. Anyways when we attempted to do the road tune he couldn't figure out what was causing the stumbling/hesitation effects. He went through all of hi parameters and said the only thing he could find was that the fuel pressure was inconsistent. Not is exact words mind you. So after trailering the car home, I let the car sit for awhile, and about a few weeks later I finally get the chance to do some more troubleshooting. That's when I read about the fuel line and FPR swap. So I bought the FPR kit, installed it and still have the stumbling effect except that it dropped to between 2000-2500 vs the 2500-3000rpm range initially. I'm wondering if I should see if it gets tuned out after I retune it or to just go ahead and get longer fuel lines too beforehand.
  3. Gotcha, I had the battery disconnected when I did the install work. I'll reset the battery again, hoping to have it dynotuned in a week or so. Thanks again for responding.
  4. Turbotwin, after you did the regulator swap and before the retune, was there still a flat spot/stumble? I'm asking because initially my stumble was between 2500-3000rpm. Now since I've removed the three stock regulators and installed the IAP FPR kit (http://www.iaperformance.com/product_info.php?products_id=3155) the stumble moved to 2000-2500rpm. Will it go away once it is retuned? I'm hoping that I don't need to keep trouble shooting and buying parts.
  5. Bro! Definitely will do the double din along with full audio sometime in the future. Hopefully this will hold me over for awhile.
  6. Just got my Pro kit within 2 weeks too, installed it late this morning. Took about an hour, and biggest problem for me wasn't removement or installation. For some reason when I tested it, the volume and intensity of any song dropped drastically when I increased the volume on the headunit past 20. Any ideas? I reopened the radio, reversed the audio connectors thinking maybe, just maybe (doubting this) that this would fix it. Nothing. Everything is back together, just now hoping to find an answer to this. Also plugging the ribbons in is not difficult either. I think its very straight forward. Look at the female side connector on the radio board and aux board. Whichever side the pins are on, is the ame side the ribbon contacts will go. Really wish I ordered this years ago. Next mod will be the jdm dual din. Can't wait.
  7. Yeah pretty much you can count me out of doing bodywork in the future, I just don't have the patience. And to think I do everything on my own, my next task is to change the clutch and fw. That should be fun.
  8. Oh yeah and to answer your question for rolling, its a huge pita! My patience actually lasted though surprisingly. You must get that paint extremely hot so it won't crack, and also put the whole car up on jacks so the wheels spin freely. Also a good idea to have a dremel handy for cutting liners back and plastic trim around the wheel wells. Good luck!
  9. Although they were convient as far as having one when I wanted it right away, I would not give them business. Maybe if Mweiner orders one, I would go to him and help his business out. I haven't met him yet but I have talked on the phone with him and he seems like a nice guy. He will be getting a call from me this coming summer for a stage 3+ setup.
  10. Thats what I thought too. But while I was working on the car, my wife found a place on east evans in Denver that had a roller today. So I'm on my way to Aurora right now if anyone wants to help out.
  11. Any one have an eastwood fender roller in the local area to rent or do the actual work? I finally got my wheels in last week and mounted and balanced today and I just tried using the baseball bat, heat gun method and rubber mallet with hammer methods and it is taking entirely too long and still chipping paint and the fenders aren't rolling the way they should. I really would like to get them done by Monday. I live in Cheyenne and will drive.
  12. Thank you Dan for putting all the time and effort into making this information readily available. Of course there will be questions, and as I have read this and other threads, I still have concerns. Here's my concern. I'm mounting 18x9.5 et38 wheels with 245/35s and as a roll.pull will be made, I still havent been able to figure out whether I need better struts with my Cobb springs, or just go coilovers. I don't necessairly need the height adjustment all the time, but I need a better ride, and I occasionally pull a motorcycle/utility trailer with several bikes loaded and as of now with my stock struts and Cobb springs, the rear tires can't even be seen. The car pulls whatever with no problem, but my suspension is suffering and I'm not exactly sure if I spend $1k on coilovers if that will be the best option or not. Would I need lateral links, rear camber bolts, butt shims, etc. I am on a budget and can't throw money around with my lacking military check. I also DD this and travel with the family in it. I don't want them suffering from an uncomfortable ride either. Thank you in advance to anyone that takes the moment to help me out here, it is and will be very much appreciated.
  13. Forgot to ask, will they touch tires and wheels that I bring in, or just what I order from them?
  14. Why thank you Ryan! Guess next time I'm in town I'll be making an appt there.
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