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Bimmer

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  • Location
    Humboldt County, CA
  • Car
    '02 Impreza, '08 Outback; '13 Forester
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    Historian

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  1. This doesn't make any sense to me. It DOES make sense that wheel speed sensors would automatically adjust for changes in gearing, as in your case. It does NOT make sense that wheel speed sensors know the circumference of the tire, if it's not OEM. They only know how fast the wheel/tire are spinning, not how big they are (or how far or how fast they're traveling). Changing the wheel/tire WILL change speedometer and odometer readings.
  2. rB5, you installed the GR-2s for the 2005-09 Outback, right? There are a couple guys over on outback.org who have had good results using the GR-2s for the 2000-04 Outback in '05-09 models. Of course, there are also a bunch of owners of 2000-2004 Outbacks with GR-2s who are satisfied... Apparently the rear struts for the two models are basically interchangeable, but the GR-2s for the earlier model are stiffer. Bimmer
  3. Actually, I'd be interested in lowering it a bit less — maybe halfway between OEM OB and LGT. In any case, I'm not as interested in changing the ride height as I am in getting some more damping... Bimmer
  4. Thanks, Duffman, and thanks for the measurements in the other thread. I think you're right about it being worth it, even if one needed to source new parts — I could use my Subaru Bucks and get everything for free (kind of). Meanwhile, Impatient and I are and a couple others are still trying to figure out how good KYB's GR-2s and RalliTek's rear springs are... I won't be home until August, and my finances are going to be a mess 'til October, but I just must do something. Bimmer
  5. I want to hear how this turns out, but it is off-topic from this thread. Do us a favor, really, and start a new thread once you've figured this out... Bimmer
  6. It's not $2,000. It's $2,090, plus $207 shipping, so it's really almost $2,300... Of course, if there were 10 of us, then we could do it for $1,678 each, plus shipping (so, still less than $1,900). I'm on the fence again... Everytime I think about fixing the suspension, I get excited. Then, every time I think of putting something like $2Gs into a rapidly aging car (instead of putting it towards a down payment on something else), I reconsider again. Bimmer
  7. I'm definitely still interested in this, but not soon (I'm leaving the country for several months, starting next month), and I'm also very price sensitive (broke)... I'm interested in fixing my OBXT's suspension for $500 or even $1,000, but $2,000+ is simply too much for me. Looking at this link, wouldn't the first suspension option "for Turbo" be for the XT, or is that only for the Legacy wagon? Of course, it costs about $2,700, which is way too rich for my blood... Bimmer
  8. I'm late to the game, but I'm VERY interested. Money is a big issue, so I'm price sensitive, but the crappy suspension is really intolerable. Bimmer
  9. Yeah, me too, that's why it's all "hidden" under the dash, where I can't see it... Bimmer
  10. It's the same. I've got an '08, and after a year and a half and 10,000 miles, it works fine... Bimmer
  11. My experience in Europe has been that the system there is far stricter and better enforced than here. I have no ambitions of towing an Airstream with a VW Golf, but if it's allowed in Germany, then I've got to believe that it's safe. Of course German driver training is also far better, and a load like that is limited to 55 or 60mph (even on the Autobahn). Ben
  12. I agree, and if I already had a full-size van or pick-up, then I would use it to tow, instead of my Impreza. I don't doubt that trucks are better at towing, I just doubt that it's worth spending tens of thousands of dollars for the extra capability on the off chance that I might want to tow something heavy — like the OP asked about. Of course if I had to haul heavy loads on a daily basis, then I would buy a big truck. I'm amused at Americans who think that they "need" a full-size truck to ever tow anything. Ben
  13. No offense intended, but this is typical American thinking regarding towing... "I need a big pick-up or a big SUV." Once you've been to Europe and seen 90hp VW Golfs towing Airstream campers, then towing really loses its mystique. It's only Americans who think that they need 300hp to tow anything... And for the guy who warped the rotors on his SUV after towing just a couple times: This is clearly operator error. You simply cannot drive with a trailer like you would without a trailer. If you drive 10-20mph more slowly and maintain big following distances, then you're effectively negating the extra weight of the trailer in terms of stopping distances (and burden on the brakes). Ben
  14. This isn't a problem with the tow vehicle, it's a problem with the load on the trailer. If the trailer's load is centered too far back (behind the trailer's axle), then the trailer will sway. Having a heavier vehicle with a longer wheelbase helps manage this, but the solution is proper loading. I've towed big U-Haul trailers with my Impreza, and it's been non-issue. I didn't have to launch up a boat ramp, obviously, but I don't know how there would be any extra wear on the clutch, as long as you shift gears as gingerly as ever (which I did). Once you're in gear with the clutch engaged, what's the difference? I don't have a transmission cooler or gauge, but my Impreza's oil temp wasn't any hotter at 80mph with a trailer than at 90mph without. Ben
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