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KFCConspiracy

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  • Location
    Philly
  • Car
    2016 WRX Premium
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

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  1. The RSB most definitely should be done with upgraded endlinks, I used the kartboys. Preferably better endlinks all around... My stock ones were all kinds of rusty and pretty beaten up after only a year when I swapped the sway bar. But by far the biggest thing to upgrade grip/handling wise for me was getting off of the stock all seasons to a summer tire...
  2. I had the same mods before my car was totaled (I didn't have the newest opensource tune yet). I didn't have mine on a dyno, but mine was tuned by AMR with the midpipe, headers, intake and a catback. I'd want to see a dyno result to believe 300WHP; I see an estimated 292bhp on the front of the thread, which if we assume the correction factor is around 200/256 we'd see around 230whp. I'll definitely say it was a ballsy car with those mods, way faster than my WRX is stock... I'm not trying to insult anyone or their car car, but 300WHP is a pretty big claim; you need to keep in mind the car comes with 256bhp stock and was measured at 200-210WHP in everyone's dyno runs, so we'd be talking about 300 * 256/200 = 384bhp... You're talking about a 128hp gain over stock. And even the dyno plots on Raptor's site show a max of 250whp.
  3. 270-280 (Which is not too shabby) is more a reasonable expectation... And if you're going to get to that point you NEED a new midpipe and high flow cats. The raptor headers WILL definitely destroy the stock cats. Not an if, not a possibly, it's a will definitely. Although Perscitus may be able to chime in, I haven't seen his latest dyno #s with the Opensource tune.
  4. FAST of West Chester (In PA) did my midpipe with the high flow cats for around 1200 bucks in stainless steel with the high flow cats included in that price.... That's what I was hinting at when I said shop the project around... Plus the time I saved by not having to drive 3 hours each way to AMR. I'm currently running an AMR tune. My results are similar to Golfer's as far as MPG, etc. But I'd like to switch to XRT because I find the transmission's shift points leave a lot to be desired. So if I were you, I'd do XRT. I'm probably going to get it done this spring. As far as suspension, I have a 2013, so I have the 2013 FSB. I upgraded the RSB to a 22mm Whiteline adjustable at the medium setting. I upgraded my endlinks all around to Kartboy, and my front bushings to poly. That's a pretty good place to start, those changes have made the car noticeably more nimble and grippy. Also if you're not running summer tires yet, I'd recommend that as well.
  5. Golfer: I ended up finding a superficial exhaust leak between the header and the midpipe flanges on mine when I was changing the oil a couple weeks ago, not enough that I was getting exhaust in the cabin, but enough that I could feel some hot gases and hear a vibration. Ended up replacing those gaskets and coating the replacements with permatex ultra-copper RTV. No noise, no more leak. Didn't think to take any pictures last time I was under there.
  6. You can definitely have it tuned not to care... But I will warn you, if you've never had a catless car, it will smell and it will be noisy, one of the most effective ways of muffling the noise your car makes is the cat. It may be debatable whether exhaust flow is still a bottleneck with the high flow cats.
  7. Raptor's headers are not direct bolt-on. The stock midpipe needs to be cut, an step up adapter needs to be attached to the midpipe, and then the adapter needs to be welded to the pipe and the provided flanges. However, I don't recommend that you do it that way because the increased exhaust pressure from the headers will destroy stock cats.... It happened to me, it happened to perscitus, I'm sure it's happened to other members (That's all in this thread). Not to mention the fact that the stock section of pipe is thinner than the outlet pipe on the headers. I would recommend you price out a pair of high flow cats, I used Vibrants, and I believe Perscitus did as well, and plan on having a midpipe fabricated when you do it. I paid around $1200 for my midpipe fabrication including parts using stainless tubing. I'd recommend you shop the project around a bit to your local speed shops. Show them pictures of perscitus's midpipe.
  8. I wouldn't do that personally... The 3.6R without any resonators from my experience makes for lots of drone. I'm cringing just thinking about driving in that.
  9. I've had an exhaust rattle for a while as well... I think new bushings will probably solve the problem. Similar to my experience. You'll beat a 350Z though or a G37 (Same engine in the 3.7L one). It does piss off 370Z owners when a big family sedan keeps up though.
  10. Mine's still running fine too. Just did the 35,000 mile maintenance in my driveway... It just said "Inspect trans fluid", so I replaced it.
  11. Should be able to pull that info with my ecutek cable right?
  12. I'm in Philly, but I'm in the NY area pretty regularly, the fiancee's parents live in Westchester (I think you're in NY right?)
  13. Started talking to Ed. Looks like it may be a bit of pain in the ass to get ECUTek off my car, like I may need to buy some additional software to do so.
  14. Do you know if I need to buy a new cable? What's the deal with it? I'm willing to drop the 300 it lists for an etune, but what else do I need to flash?
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