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c_hunter

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c_hunter last won the day on October 27 2004

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  1. The only true manual mode is obtained after you have overridden all the possible settings. In between full auto (when AUTO is lit) and full manual, you're in a sem-auto transitional state that can be frustrating. The AUTO indicator will not be lit, but some of the settings are still on auto. Maybe that's what you're noticing. Craig
  2. It probably means you haven't really gotten into manual mode. From true manual, only pushing defrost or AC will turn it on. Anyways, once you turn it off, it should stay off. And BTW, it's not necessarily running, as we discussed above. But I understand exactly what you're thinking -- when I go full manual in cold weather, I also turn off AC unless I am worried about humidity/fogging. CRaig
  3. I thought this was a great solution, and the instructions were a help even though I had previously torn into the radio before. I would recommend this to everyone!! My one suggestion for Jazzy would be to use a much longer piece of flat-flex cable (like 6" or so) in order to allow a lot of slack between the jazzy-board and the radio-board connectors. This would allow more flexibility in mounting the board (I used double stick tape to keep it from floating arount) and would also make it easier to plug everything in. It will certainly add a few bucks ot the cost, but I think it would be worthwhile. Craig
  4. It's due to the fact that devices like the iPod and Sirius units have their own independent ground that is different from the vehicle ground. Even if you attempt to unite all the grounds you will still have problems. It's almost impossible to avoid ground loop problems with portable devices in cars. And if you're working with multiple portable devices, you probably quadrupled the number of possible ground "leaks". Craig
  5. Good question -- I don't know. I suspect there's a controller box somewhere that only handles the climate control. ECUs are generally not "bothered" with this sort of stuff. Craig
  6. Mike, it may be possible to rescale the temp sensors if we knew where they were and which ones did what. They are likely thermocouples that convert a temperature into a voltage. You can always play games with sensors like that. The trick would be figuring out how the system worked and how the sensors feed into the controller, etc. If somebody can get a circuit diagram, that would be a good start. Craig
  7. \ That's not going to help us in North America, as we have Panasonic/Matsushita radios that do not have an external CD changer jack.
  8. Go read centerpunch's original thread (it's a sticky) where we have discussed this in gory detail. Maybe you will get some other ideas on how to do it. Another fellow posted a thread (which got located in the entirely wrong forum) where he physically cut and switched the lines from the tuner. If you can find that one, it's worth a read as well. CRaig
  9. This only affects the headphone jack. If you're using the dock connector, it's standard line-level out and is not affected by the volume adjustment in iTunes. If you are using the headphone jack for output, you should switch to the dock connector. The headphone level is much lower than the dock's line level, and when you crank up the volume to compensate, you're adding distortion. By using the dock connector, you are getting a clean line-level signal with the proper amplification to connect to other devices. The only time you have to use the headphone jack for external hookups is with a 1G or 2G iPod that did not have a dock connector. Craig
  10. Well, it's possible to get general noise from power lines, but it would not be a ground loop problem. You only get that from multiple different and/or isolated ground points. Ground loop problems are very common with portable devices which have their own separate ground. Uniting that with the stereo/vehicle ground almost always results in a ground loop, especially if you also power/charge the device. Craig
  11. You can definitely avoid taking out the armrest/bin part of the console, even on cars with auto trans. Once you lift the chrome ring off, take an allen-wrench and stick it in the gap around the shifter, and use that to pull up the trim bezel. Works great. I believe we made a note of this in one of the other audio install topics about a year ago. It's definitely a lot of extra unnecessary work to pull the whole armrest/bin part. Craig
  12. Those of you considering a ground loop isolator -- most of these use RCA jacks, so you could easily swap L / R when putting the GLI in, to take care of this potential problem. When I did my own line in hack a couple months ago, I guessed at L/R and got it wrong. Was able to correct it just by swapping plugs at the GLI. Craig
  13. If you're charging/powering a portable aux. device while also connecting it to the radio, that almost guarantees a ground loop problem. There really is no sane way around it. I would suggest a ground loop isolator be a recommended part of the install. I have run into the same problem over the years with a variety of FM-mod and other aux-in hacks. The GLI almost always solves the problem. Craig
  14. It's from the factory sub, that's the ground point. Craig
  15. Got mine today, looks real good. Nice job with the instructions too! I will hopefully get to tangle with it over the weekend, depending on what the weather does. As for the universal board, it may be possible. All the inputs (CD, FM, AM) run to the same place, and it's just the absence of two of them that allows the third to play uninterupted. If you could trick the radio/CD (or radio/FM or radio/AM) to both think the other is hunky-dory, then it would work. The thing is, that info gets passed along a data bus, so it will take a bit of deciphering to figure out. Craig
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