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coblue

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  • Location
    Golden, CO
  • Car
    05 LGT 5sp 16G...

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  1. Nicely done Dave! Still loving my Cryotune...
  2. Hell yeah! Got Cryo-DynoTuned on Friday and am loving it. The car ran nicer today, and I agree it's hard to keep your foot out of it. Dave cares about what he does and it shows.
  3. First of all I want to thank Dustin Nogle and Bret Carter at AutoNation Subaru in Golden, CO. Brett had been recommended to me by another enthusiast years ago but this was the first time I met him. They took an interest in finding the cause of my problem and kept me fully informed along the way. It probably helps that they are both enthusiasts, and Bret didn't have to rush because it wasn't my DD. I feel they solved my problem as effectively as they could with no surprises. Well, make that two surprises. First surprise was the pack rat that took up residence under my hood and got a free ride on the tow truck to the dealership. Some power washing got him out of there but I would have loved to seen the look on Brett's face when he opened the hood! As I mentioned in my first post, earlier a different tech had recommending replacing the BIU, and after Wurkenman's experience I was very gun shy of where that might lead. Bret diagnosed the problem, conferred with Subaru Tech Line and recommended we start with the gauge cluster as I mentioned in post #28. I was hopeful but leery of where we were headed. (Did I mention my wife hates this car and thinks it's bad luck?) The cluster connected and lit up, but they called to say they could not program the cluster or the spare key I had asked for. (Visions of Wurkenman…) Surprise number two- Bret was able to determine that the cluster/BIU/Immobilizer/etc had the vin from a different car than mine. With the new vin info he was able to get it all set up and program the spare key. End of story, car started right up. (Caveat emptor if you're being a used car, particularly with a salvage/rebuilt title like mine.) So lesson learned- I had to go to the dealer for the Subaru Select Monitor, but it pays to find out who the good service advisors and techs are, explain your situation as best you can, and don't ask for a rush repair. Thanks again Bret and Dustin!
  4. It's alive! I'll write more this weekend when I have more time.
  5. Just an update- I did what I could/was willing to do with no results so took it to the dealer. Feel very good about who is working on it and asked that they take their time to diagnose rather than throw parts at it. After diagnosing and conferring with Subaru tech line, first step is to replace the gauge cluster. Should have another update in a week...
  6. Only bad news. One morning it wouldn't start, like the immobilizer kicked in (one of the codes above). Battery has been on a tender since and is at 12.7v. I cleaned and tested all the grounds in the engine bay and I have ground through the OBD II port (shared with the BIU). i've done all I can and will be taking it to the dealer. It's not me DD so it may be a few weeks while I save up for it. I'll post when I have news.
  7. Spent a little time on it tonight. I can cause the reboot of the AP by pushing the body wires sideways where they enter the OBD connector. I think it may be the number 4 or 7 pin, can't tell for sure because the probes on my multimeter are too large to fit into the OBD or BIU connectors reliably. need to figure something out that will be stable while I wiggle the wires. If indeed the end of the wire is loose, I don't see how it would affect the BIU since the BIU doesn't ground through that wire of the OBD, does it?
  8. Ehsnils, You make two good points. I discounted the reboot when you said BIU wasn't directly involved with obd on an '05 ( if I understood correctly). The reboot seems to be caused by something in the last 9" of wire or connector of the OBD. I can make it happen by moving the wire bundle. Do you think it's related or not? Time to get the multimeter out of the toolbox!
  9. Nothing yet. I've been keeping track of the gauge operation- basically if the needles sweep then all the gauges work. If the needles don't sweep then some gauges don't work; which gauges seems to be random. I thought it would happen less frequently as the outside temperature drops but don't have enough cold days to validate it. In the summer it can be hot enough after sitting in the sun that the starter won't turn over, and of course not gauges. But after a couple tries it starts. Reading the trouble shooting decision tree for my dtc codes all seems to point to either a harness/ground problem, or bad BIU. Since this error just came up in the last few thousand miles, and everything that connects to the BIU seemed to be working before and since the error code (other than the gauges) I'm leaning toward replacing the BIU. I may spend some time chasing grounds this weekend, but electrical really isn't my thing.
  10. Wow - thanks ehsnils, that should keep me busy for a while! This car just became my dd so I'll be tackling this in small pieces. I'm also concerned about " code readers replacing parts" rather than finding the cause. If I correct the cause of the codes, will the BIU clear the stored codes and return my display to normal? Can an independent subie shop have a Subaru Select Monitor, or does SOA have tight control of them? Knowing if the codes are changing would be helpful. I also think the ignition lock is a possibility- the car has 106k miles so many cycles on the lock. I forgot to mention that a couple times there is no response when turning the key if the car gets very hot in the sun. I am keeping a log of what the gauge cluster does each time I start the car. It seems to be worse when the car has sat in the sun. I will probably run the diagnostic on it to see if the cluster is ok and see if the BIU is sending bad info. Thanks again to all.
  11. I've gone through the diagnostic checklists for the above codes. Most of them lead to "perform the DTC clear mode" and then check for codes again. Is there anyway to clear the BIU codes without the SSM, like by disconnecting the battery for a long period? From my service ticket, I can't tell if the tech performed the clear and reread, before recommending replacement of the BIU.
  12. Alright! Seems like I have some good people trying to help me out. Danteneon has me going down the B0101 trouble shooting path. Haven't finished yet but battery voltage is good at 12.4 volts, all fuses in the main box and cabin are good and seem tobe making good connection. I am also rechecking ground connections. Here are the codes as ehsnils requested: B0100 integrated unit system error B0101 batt. P/supply malfunction cont B0102 batt p/supply malfunction backup B0103 ignition power failure B0104 acc power failure B0201 can-hs counter abnormal B0221 can-has ECM no-receive data B0321 can-ls meter no-receive data B0401 m collation ng B0500 keyless uart com. Malfunction More details on the symptoms: This happened 1 day after my last tune. The OBD port "may" have a bad wire- my AP will sometimes reboot while logging. Odometer always displays flashing "------" Center dash display shows "---" mpg, "---" avg mpg,"---" miles to empty; ET, outside temp, and clock are fine. Gauges are set to sweep when key is turned. Sometimes they do, sometimes not. Sometimes gauges are not lit. Which gauges work is random, sometimes all work. Turning car off and back on will usually get all working at the same time, sometimes takes a couple tries. Occasionally the tach reads high- like 2k at idle. Sometimes the needle moves more jerky than I remember. I've removed the cluster to check connections, seem good and no rattle inside the cluster.
  13. Thanks Danteneon. That explains it well. This particular car has been a money pit already- I'd hate to go down the road wurkenman has been down. Unfortunately, replacing the BIU first seems to be the only way to go. Wurkenman- I recall seeing your post while searching. I'll go back and reread and maybe pm you.
  14. My '05 odometer was displaying "------", indicating a high/low speed CAN communication error. Took it to the dealer and they retrieved a bunch of codes from it and said the BIU was beginning to fail. They recommended replacing the BIU but said that may not be the only thing needed. A gauge cluster was mentioned as a possibility since the gauges work intermittently. Is someone out there an expert on these that I can consult with? I have the codes, and I'd like to know more about the BIU. Is it plug and play that I can get one from salvage? Does it require special programming to work in my car? Those kind of things. I don't want the dealer to just start throwing parts at it and costing mega bucks if not needed. TIA
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