importtund

First of all; "Silentracer", "play with toys", & "Reason".... How bout you gentleman pay the credit to all of the sites I got the information from and myself why your at it... Secondly, I gathered this information from all over the web, I admit; mostly from www.sl-i.net, which is an awsome site and has great information. However another good part of it was taken from Wiki.com and written myself. Therfore I had not given or listed many links, nor refreneces as to where or how I got the information; I only said that it was gathered from places online, And I quote; "Within this page you will find some of the most helpful information gathered from all over; Performance site links, helpful suggestions, vehicle specs, and much more helpful information gathered over time". I did not lead anyone to believe I came up with all of this information on my own. Stop being upset and be happy someone is spredding the information that was available by whomever posted it, and helping those whom haven't taken or do not have the time to look for answers on their own. Hate on me if you wish.....However you feel, Either way I was helping fellow Legacy enthusiasts, and have not taken nor given credit to anyone for anything. Thank you for you comments and your concern... -TUND

Well, thank you for pointing that out! but here's to cover your concern with the BJ model... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy Chassis code BC - Sedan BJ - Wagon BF - Touring Wagon (high roof line) Chassis code BD - sedan BK - wagon BG - high-roof wagonThat webasite only states that the BJ was from 90-94 but it was actually in production since 89, just not sold in the US.....

didn't exacly understand the way turntable put, but sounds good to me!

Hey rougeben83, if you can go alittle more into detail about this cam thing, people keep pming me for information about this. Which I don't have, nor do I know anything about. so if you could just write up alittle more about these, that would be great, I.E. website to get them from, probable gains, who should get this done, who shouldn't, noticable difference in performance, your own review and anything else you can think of.... etc etc.... thanks... -Tund

maybe I have misunderstood what you were trying to say however... Yes there are alot of threads like this but alot of those threads are for the newer legacy only and they don't cover a whole lot on performance parts or where to get them. which is why I have taken the time to do this, I believe if it's going to get *sticky it should stay here.

I have seen new folks come in time after time and ask a number of questions most of them we've all seen before. So... since I have alittle time on my hands and it will be easier for them then searching for things, I've made this. Within this page you will find some of the most helpful information gathered from all over; Performance site links, helpful suggestions, vehicle specs, and much more helpful information gathered over time. So if you are new to the older legacy then you've come to the right place. THE THINGS THIS POST WILL COVER FOR YOU: Legacy model codes Most common internet terms Internet technical terms & abreviations for subarus Performance Options for the older legacy models links to find performance parts links for crate and used motors bushing list Motorswaps Transmission swaps Overheating issues Related subaru links to informitive websites _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ TERMS & ABREVIATIONS SECTION Legacy Model Codes: BC=89-94 Sedan BF=89-94 Wagon (raised roof) BJ=89-94 Wagon BD=95-99 Sedan BG=95-99 Wagon (raised roof aka 96-99 outback) BK=95-99 Wagon BE=00-04 Sedan BH=00-04 Wagon **Some of the models which have the same model code have different suspension parts then the other model. check with local dealer or give vehicle VIN number when ordering parts to make sure it will fit and is the correct part. Technical Abreviations: 5MT- 5 speed manual transmission 6MT- 6 speed manual transmission 4EAT- 4 speed automatic transmission ABS- Antilock Braking System AWD- All Wheel Drive Bhp- Brake Horsepower BOV- Blow off Valve CAI- cold air intake Cat- Catalytic Converter CEL- Check engine light CF- Carbon fiber *or* cubic feet CVT- Continuously Variable Transmission Diff- Differential DIN- The standard radio slot (about 7"w x 2"h) DOHC- Dual over head camshafts Dyno- the “rolling road” where a vehicle’s power is tested ECU- Engine Control Unit EFI- Electronic Fuel Injection EGR- Exhaust Gas Recirculation ECT - Electronically Controlled Transmission EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection EG – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (up through mid to late 90’s) EG33 – Subaru 3.3 litre 6-cylinder engine code (SVX) EJ – Subaru 4-cylinder engines (early 90’s and newer) EJ20 – Subaru 2.0 litre 4-cylinder engine code EJ205 – Subaru 2.0 litre turbo engine (US WRX) EJ22 – Subaru 2.2 litre 4-cylinder engine code EJ25 – Subaru 2.5 litre 4-cylinder engine code EJ255 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US Forester XT, Baja Turbo) EJ257 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US WRX STi) EZ – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (post EG series H6 engines) EZ30R – Subaru 3.0 litre 6-cylinder engine code (BL/BP Legacy and new Outback) F4- Flat four (boxer motor) FDR - Final Drive Ratio FMIC- Front Mounted intercooler FWD- Front Wheel Drive H4 – Horizontally Opposed 4 cylinder (boxer) H6 – Horizontally Opposed 6 cylinder HID- High Intensity Discharge Headlights HP- Horsepower (at the crank) IC or I/C- Intercooler Kw- Kilowatts (like HP in the metric system) 1kw = ~1.341 HP LHD- Left Hand drive LSD- Limited Slip Differential MAF- Mass Air Flow Sensor MAP- Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor NA or N/A- Naturally Aspirated NOS- Nitrous Oxide Systems NGK- maker of spark plugs O2- oxygen OBD II- On board diagnostics system (95 and up) Also refers to the newest emissions standards. OEM- Original Equipment Manufacturer PCV- Positive Crankcase Ventilation (valve) Pot- number of pistons per caliper (ie: 4 pot brakes) PSI- Pounds per square inch RHD- Right Hand Drive RWD- Rear Wheel Drive SC or S/C- Supercharger SOHC- Single over head cams Speedo- Speedometer STi- Subaru Technica International Tach- Tachometer TB- Throttle body T/C- Turbocharger TC- Torque Converter TCM- Torque Control Module TCU- Transmission Control Unit TMIC- Top Mounted Intercooler TT- Twin Turbo or Turbo Timer VC- Viscous Coupler VIN- Vehicle Identification Number Whp- Wheel Horsepower WOT- Wide Open Throttle Internet Forum/Chat Terms: FTW- For The Win Bling- The sound light makes when it hits something shiny DIY- Do it yourself FWIW- For what its worth IIRC- If I remember/recall correctly IMO- In my opinion lol- Laugh Out Loud (if its extra funny, its LOL) n00b/newbie – a new person, or inexperienced person OMG- Oh my god OT- Off Topic PITA- Pain in the ass Post Whore- Person who fills threads with unnecessary garbage in the attempt to boost his/her post total ROFL- Roll on floor laughing ROFLMAO- Roll on floor laughing my ass off STFU- Shut the F**k Up TTIWWOP- This thread is worthless without pics WTB- Wanted to Buy WTF- Whiskey Tango Foxtrot (more commonly known as “What The F**k?”) TTYL- Talk to you later _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ PERFORMANCE SECTION Performance Parts and Tuning: As you are about to learn there are alot bolt on performance parts made for your legacy and most parts you find will cost upwards of two to three hundred dollars, yes even an intake. However there are ways of getting around this which I will explain later. The good thing is there are performance parts made for our vehicles, you just have to know what your looking for and where to look for it which is what your about to find out! The following list does NOT include every performance part made for the older legacy, just a few which I have taken the time to list. Available Bolt On Performance Parts Overview: THIS PART LISTING IS FOR A BD LEGACY! MOTOR: INJEN coldair intake Weapon R shortram intake Nology Wires Magnecore Wires grounding kits (all) voltage stabalizers unorthodox tuner series crank (underdriven) unorthodox street pulley lightened crank pulley (not underdriven) unorthodox ultra street pulley set crank and alternator pulley (not underdriven) GFB power pulley set (not underdriven) GFB 3 Peice pulley set (not underdriven) perrin lightened crank pulley (not underdriven) Web Cams performance cams Borla headers Nitrous (most/ not suggested) Oil Cooler(s) Weapon R fuel rail adapter Random Technology High flow catalytic converter or "cat" catback exhaust(s) axle back exhaust(s) center exhaust pipes(s) check engine light eliminators all the internals you could want, you can find at a HUGE price.. Turbo kits are able to be found at a rather large price.. (AVO) Suspension: H&R sport lowering springs Eibach lowering springs Whiteline Lowering springs Intrax lowering spring whiteline swaybar(s) cusco swaybar whiteline swaybar Link(s) whiteline swaybar brackets whiteline anti lift kit KYB GR2 struts KYB AGX struts strut tower brace(s) Rear strut tower brace(s) K sport coil overs STI top mounts universal floor brace Whiteline subframe lock bolts Brakes: Brembo drilled & slotted rotors Brembo drilled or slotted rotors KVR rotors(same options as brembo rotors) KVR carbon Pads EBC green stuff pads EBC red stuff pads Stop Tech rotors (same options as brembo rotors) SS brake lines speed bleeders What you do with list is up to you, NO that's NOT IT! There's more parts then that but I'm sure by now you get the point. there are parts for your car, you just have to know where to look... Which I'm going to take care of that right now! (Most) of the parts listed above can be found in a quite ah few places. I nor anyone on this forum is suggesting you use any of the manufactures or part distributors in the list(s) below,(unless otherwise stated directly to you in a different post) this is only some of the websites I have taken the time to gather and put into a list for you. I'm not suggesting you use them for purchasing parts or services because I have not used many of them myself, I'm sure they're all pretty good with parts,services, and customer service however I nor will anyone else on this forum be the blame for you having a bad buying experience. Online Stores: www.boxer4racing.com www.pdm-racing.com www.rallitek.com www.xcceleration.com www.vividracing.com www.perrinperformance.com www.avoturboworld.com www.andyautosport.com www.globalperformanceparts.com Websites for engine internals: www.fastwrx.com www.slowboyracing.com www.atomicspeedware.com www.bursethracing.com Websites for crate motors: www.subarumotors.net www.vividracing.com www.t-rexmotors.com www.gude.com www.bursethracing.com www.nyxracing.com Websites for used motors: www.cjee.com/subaru.htm www.usedwreckingyards.com www.engineplace.com www.actionsalvage.com www.japaneseengineswarehouse.com If your unable to find what you are looking to search www.dogpile.com or www.goole.com If you are still unable to find what you are looking for, post in the forum and I'm sure someone here will be able to point you in the right direction! __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ BUSHING SECTION You can get SuperPro, Whiteline and Noltec bushings. The 95-99 Legacy uses all the same bushings as the 97-01 Impreza. I'm not aware of anyone selling a kit with all the bushings included. The suspension bushings you may want to replace are: Rear Lateral Link (front) (4 bushings) Rear Lateral Link (rear) (4 bushings) Superpro: SPF1492K (inner f & r) & SPF1497K (outer f & r) Noltec: N61382 (8 bushings) You can use an adjustable lateral link kit, like the ones made by whiteline and sti, instead of these. Whiteline: KTA108 (4 arms) or KTA107 (2 front arms & 4 rear bushings) Noltec: N62034 (4 arms) Rear Trailing Links (4 bushings) Superpro: SPF1491K (2 front bushings) & SPF1907K (2 rear bushings) Noltec: N61383 (2 front bushings) & N61381 (2 rear bushings) Front Lower Arm (inner-front) (2 bushings) Superpro: SPF1390K Noltec: N51709 Front Lower Arm (inner-rear) (2 bushings) Superpro: SPF1387K (no camber change) or SPF1388K (alk effect) Noltec: N51710 (no camber change) You can use an Anti Lift Kit, also available from whiteline, instead of these. Whiteline: KCA361 (comfort), KCA319A (medium) or KCA319M (race) Front Sway Bar (2 bushings) Rear Sway Bar (2 bushings) These should be ordered according to the diameter of your sway bars. Whiteline: W0404-18, W0404-20, W0404-22, W0404-24 (last 2 digits are diameter in mm) Noltec: N22383 (18mm), N22352 (20mm), N22353 (22mm), N22354 (24mm) Superpro: SPF1383-__K (15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25.4 & 29mm) Front Endlinks (4 bushings) Rear Endlinks (4 bushings) Usually people replace the entire endlinks with stronger alloy versions available from whiteline, noltec, perrin, sti, etc instead of just changing the bushings. Other bushings you might want to replace are: Rear Differential Mount (2 bushings) Superpro: SPF2664K Rear Differential Outrigger (2 bushings) Whiteline: KSB751 Superpro: SPF1978K Transmission Crossmember Bushings (2 bushings) Superpro: SPF2358K Steering Rack (2 bushings) There are also a number of bushings in the shift linkage. Front bushing Rear bushing Linkage Bushings These are available from Kartboy & Turn In Concepts If you have all those you'll definitely also want Group-N mounts Engine mounts (2) Pitch Stop Mount Transmission Mount You'll probably also want to replace the front ball joints (if you're lowered check out the whiteline roll center correction kit), and the inner and outer tie rod ends. Manufacturer sites: www.superpro.com.au/ www.noltecsuspension.com/ www.whiteline.com.au/ Distributors: www.globalperformanceparts.com/ (Whiteline & Superpro) www.oakos.com/ (Noltec) __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ MOTOR AND TRANNY SWAP SECTION Motor Swaps: Now that we have that out of the way, I'm sure your wondering if it's possible to do a motor swap. Bottomline is yes anything is possible if you have enough money to do it! Motor swaps have been done with the BD models forsure, I'm not inclined if they have been done on other models, However It is NOT suggested that you keep your 4EAT in the vehicle if your going to put in a turbo motor, they do not hold up well with boost. There is also an amazing amount of wiring that must be done for these swaps. besure you look into this completely before you make the jump! If you are considering swapping engines in your legacy you should know from the beginning it is not as simple as swapping your brother's civic hatch. Mechanically it's not too bad, depending on the extent of what you are swapping (I'll explain this later), but there is a lot of wiring. And when I say a lot, I mean a LOT. The reason for this is that subaru's use one large wiring harness for the whole car, unlike say a honda which has a harness for the engine and a harness for the car, which you can pretty much splice the connectors and be done. With subarus, you will have to splice the two harnesses together at some point along the way, whether its in the dash or right after the ECU. Motors: That being said; Mechancially it's pretty straightforeward. Any EJ series engine will bolt to any EJ series transmission, and any EJ series drivetrain will fit into any car that had an EJ series drivetrain in it before. This pretty much means that if you have a post 1990 4 cylinder in there now, you can put any other post 1990 4 cylinder in. The exception to this EJ series engine rule is the EJ20tt (twin turbo). This mechanically would bolt up, but it was never available in the united states, and therefore the way the turbos are routed makes it impossible to install and have it clear the steering rack on a left hand drive car. If you want to do a right hand drive conversion just so you can upgrade to a single turbo to make any power later, go right ahead. Otherwise, leave these motors for the dune buggy and VW beetle guys. Common swap motors that WILL fit are: -USDM EJ20t (US wrx engine) -USDM EJ25t (EJ257) (US STi engine) -USDM EJ22t (US 90-94 legacy turbo engine) -JDM EJ20t, EJ20G, EJ20K (Japanese wrx/sti engines of varying years) - A hybrid of two or more of these (to be discussed later) Each of these motors has it's own advantages and disadvantages. I'll go into each briefly. USDM EJ20t -- This is the motor out of the US Impreza WRX. It's 2 litres, and generally makes around 160whp stock. The biggest advantage of this motor is that it's fairly common in this day and age. The WRX has been in the states for 5 years now, and there is tons of aftermarket support for the platform. You can purchase pretty much any motor upgrade for whatever year wrx whose motor you took and use it with the same results. Also, if it breaks, it's easy to find someone who knows how to fix it, and easy to find parts. Just go to your local subaru dealership. Really the only disadvantage with this setup is cost, most of these motors are still pretty new. However, deals are to be had if you know the right people. Also, if you plan to go very high horsepower (400+) You'll have to do a LOT of modification, including possibly swapping the block for something different. If you have the money to do that, you might want to start with a better platform, or a hybrid platform. USDM EJ25t (EJ257) -- This is the motor out of the US STi. It is rated at 300hp at the crank stock, and is a great motor. You can go to extremely high horsepower levels with the right upgrades. With built internals, this motor has tons of potential. It is also more torquey than the 2 litre motors. It has the same convenience of parts and repair availability as the USDM EJ20t, plus the increased potential. However, the offset is cost. These motors are difficult, and therefore costly, to track down. As said before, if you know the right people this can be reduced, but look to spend around 7-10k for everything you'd want for a swap. Also, the wiring can be a bit more difficult for various reasons, some of which is the transmission, but I'll cover transmissions later. USDM EJ22t -- This is the motor out of the 1st generation Legacy Turbos (SS's). If you haven't figured out the system by now, this motor is 2.2 litres. The advantage of this motor all comes down to how sturdy the block is. It is a closed deck (not as much coolant runs through the block itself), so the cylinder walls are much more supported. With built internals, this motor can be a real killer, as you can run obcenely high levels of boost without having to have the block sleeved, and if you do, I doubt youd ever ever blow it up, ever. This being said, this motor comes with it's share of disadvantages. First and foremost, they stopped making the legacy turbo in 1994. The engine is old, and so are the cars they come out of. They are difficult to find, and even more difficult to find ones that arent high mileage or broken already. Therefore, if you go this route, plan on at least doing a basic rebuild. Also, this motor is not OBDII in and of itself. That makes things interesting with wiring if you have to pass emmissions. Lastly, the heads don't flow well, the turbo is wimpy, and the transmisions will have just as many miles as the motor. More on this in the hybrid motor section. JDM EJ20G -- This is the JDM v2-v3 STi motor. Similar in many ways to the USDM EJ20t in terms of parts interchangeability (by NO means the same, but similar). The wiring is interesting, because you have to decipher JDM wiring diagrams, but it can be done, and isnt that much harder than a USDM swap. You run into the same OBDII problem with this motorset. The largest advantage of this setup is that the EJ20G is also a closed deck block, only 2 litres instead of 2.2. The best way to do this swap is to find a JDM STi front clip, and get everything, so you don't have to worry about tracking down little parts you need for an already pulled motor. JDM EJ20K,t -- This encompasses the remainder of the JDM STi and WRX motors. Power levels vary a bit, but its all pretty much an EJ20. All the same disadvantages as an EJ20G, with no sealed deck. Good motors, good turbos, fun out of the box, and inexpensive. Plan on taking your time with the wiring, or you'll regret it later. Hybrid motors -- Basically, this is what the name says. You take two or more of the motors from above, and combine the parts you want. This requires more knowhow in terms of engine building, as you have to deal with changing compression ratios with different heads and ECU tuning, but its definitely worth it if you have the cash to do it right. One good combination is to get everything for a WRX swap, and use the EJ22t block with the WRX heads, turbo, etc. You can use an STi turbo with any of the above platforms, really whatever you want. As I said though, this requires more mechanical knowhow. Transmissions: 4EAT automatic -- I don't have much personal experience with this transmission, however I do know it doesn't handle much aftermarket power well. You also have to find a motor or ECU for your motor that had an automatic in it before, you can't get a manual ECU to work with an auto tranny as far as I know. Luckily for those of you who would want one (i havent met anyone yet, but im sure they exist), the USDM and JDM WRXs came in automatic form. 5 speed manual -- This is the standard 5 speed manual that subaru puts in most everything. If you have a 5 speed, chances are its built off of this platform. The strength of these transmissions, ive discovered, is all pretty much the same. Different gear ratios, rear end ratios, etc, all make a difference when putting a motorset together, but for the most part they are all the same. The exception to this (There always seems to be one haha) is the JDM STi 5 speed, which was available with the DCCD. This transmission is stronger than the regular 5 speed (Cryo treated gears). It also has the variable center diff (DCCD), which can be wired in to work if you get it with a front clip, or even a pulled motor with all the stuff. 6 speed manual -- USDM STi trans. Much more sturdy than the 5 speeds in any form, plus the DCCD. Don't be mistaken, its still a subaru transmission, you can still break it. Wiring the DCCD in can be a pain, especially if you are putting this in without the rest of the STi stuff (ie on a hybrid motor). __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ COMMON REPAIRS AND ISSUSES OVERHEATING: If your legacy is overheating from time to time, and spiting coolant all over the place nine times out of ten you have a blown head gasket (not always, but most cases) If you have a warranty get it into the shop ASAP to have it fixed! Certain 1999 through 2002 2.5L equipped vehicles may experience an external coolant leak at the head gaskets. Only early Phase II 2.5 liter engines are affected. Phase I 2.5 liter engines (some 1999 model year and prior years) are not affected. In the future, it will be necessary to add Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner to the SUBARU vehicle cooling system whenever the engine coolant is replaced. Related Informitive Sites: http://www.cars101.com/subaru_links.html < TONS of Subaru related links. http://www.cars101.com/legacy.html < Every Specification you'll ever need. (almost) http://www.cars101.com/subaru_terms.html < more helpful information about subarus http://www.legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm < how to on transmission swap and more about subaru legacy swaps http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine < good information on "EJ" engines and when, where and in what they're used. http://autorepair.about.com/od/obdcodedatabase/The_Exhaustive_Database_of_OBDI_and_OBDII_Engine_Codes.htm < Data base for all OBD system codes http://www.premiersubaru.com/terms.asp < explains and has pictures of almost everything on a subaru http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1995-to-1999-subaru-legacy-2.htm < consumer guide recalls and BD issues/warnings http://www.cars101.com/recalls.html < more subaru recalls/warnings > > > > > > PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADD ON TO THIS SO THAT WE CAN CUT OUT MOST OF THE UNNEEDED THREADS!< < < < < <