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notthesnail

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About notthesnail

  • Birthday June 3

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  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Car
    2006 Legacy GT Wagon Ltd

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  1. I did mine. Had to do the second part a second time. Details: I used an 8GB key with other stuff on it, that was already formatted to FAT32. I put everything in folders, including all the update files in their own folder. I just copied out the Update 1 or Update 2 files as needed so they were the only non-folder items in the root. The lower USB port worked for the updates, the upper did not. YMMV. Update 1 is a single file and the progress bar goes to completion 1 time. After this is done you might think 'maybe I won't lose my radio presets and bluetooth pairings'. You will be wrong. Update 2 wipes them, update 1 doesn't. Update 2 is 3 files and, when it works, the progress bar will go to completion 3 times, each time taking longer than the last time. The third time will take as long as Update 1. I never started my car, only used the accessory position, which is two button presses without touching the brake if you have the tech package. Figure on 40 to 45 minutes, including pulling the USB to swap update files, and probably running update 2 twice.
  2. Could be one of the inside ends of an axle has started to come out. Pop it back in and the sounds should go away. I've had two failures. First was the pinion bearings. Makes a whining noise. Second was a siezure of the driver's side axle bearing. That will show up as trans slipping and smoke the clutch disks in your trans pretty quick.
  3. Mine was rebuilt a few weeks ago. The shop was able to source used parts for about $400 (dealer was over $1000). Expect about double the parts cost to re- and re-, plus drop the VB to be flushed out, and change the filter in the fender behind the battery. These are Canadian costs, by the way. My autoslalom launches are now not as fun. Sympotoms: could turn the wheel to about 90 degrees in either direction before a crunching sound and thumping that felt like it was right by my leg. Highway driving was fine. Parking lots, intersections and driveways - not so much.
  4. Wow Climber! If more people responded to inappropriate posts in that way, there would be a lot fewer hard feelings and a lot fewer pissing matches between noobs and Internet tough guys. Maybe it should be made into a template.
  5. Interesting that it's the driver's side that popped out. I wonder if it's the direction of driveshaft rotation that makes that side more susceptible to problems. Anyway... Get someone to pull that axle and check the stub and inside the diff. You should be able to see right away if the axle is damaged. You might be able to get by for a while without a trans rebuild if this is the problem and you get it fixed quick. Based on what happened to me, it WILL burn out your transfer clutches.
  6. That's not what he asked. But it does make the question rather pointless.
  7. Put it in full manual mode (stop, move to sport, then tap - twice). Drive until the engine almost redlines and note the speed. Don't downshift to first if you're going faster than that. Coasting with the trans in gear uses less fuel then if it shifts into neutral on you. It will do this at around 30mph (50kph), unless you are in manual and put it in a gear on purpose. At those speeds, my display shows 2L/100km in neutral and 0.2L/100km in gear. Or 10x more fuel when not in fuel cut. How's that for a reason? I have a better one, though. If your exhaust isn't stock, it sounds better in gear.
  8. You know, much like starting the car in the winter and then driving in sport mode right away, only harder shifting. 1->2 BAM! 2->3 BAM! Even 3->4 BAM! It's like the TCU has jacked the line pressure from autocrossing it and it hasn't figured out that it's just being asked to cruise. After every autocross it would do that for a couple days (I have a short drive to work) before things were back to normal. It didn't do that after my latest tune, where Requested Torque was rescaled from 320 max to 400 max.
  9. I had my tuner rescale mine. He chose 400 as the max value, up from 320. In my obviously non-biased opinion it has made a small difference. Actually, one thing I did notice for sure was that after the tuning session, and after autocrossing the next day, I didn't have to deal with the usual hammer-shifting until the TCU re-learned my DD routine. Coincidence? Who's to say?
  10. Send SeeeeYa a PM. He'll tell you his price to send a kit. Considering how long it takes to make one from scratch, it's a good deal.
  11. With your 05 you should be able to put the gear selector in Sport mode while stopped, toggle it down (I do it twice, I'm not sure why), and then proceed to bang it off the rev limiter until you put it back in D. This will also keep it from downshifting except to prevent stalling. I'm able to come to a complete stop and continue driving while in 2.
  12. What vendor actually thinks they're losing a $700 sale because there's an alternative out there for 90% less? 97% less parts only for the hard core DIYers. That's like the music industry claiming every download is a lost album sale. Morons.
  13. I don't know about Mad Skillz, but I do alright. Thanks. It helps to know that carbide tipped tools meant for wood can be used for aluminum in moderation. We'll see how redundant those lock washers are when the engine gets hot. If the nylon inserts melt I'll probably wish I had kept them.
  14. So I finally got around to making one of these. Thank's to SeeeeeYa for sending me his instructions. I didn't follow them exactly, but it was good to have them for reference. Of the things I did differently, some I would do again, others I wouldn't bother. Everything was machined using my table saw. A drill press and a hand file did everything else. It took me about 6 hours from popping the hood to closing it again, but that includes taking pictures, a test fit and rework, and a quick polish. If you like doing this kind of thing, like I do, then it's worth doing. If your tool collection is lacking, or your skills lie elsewhere, then hit up SeeeeeYa for a complete kit at a reasonable price. I noticed that my intercooler was starting to separate before I started. Target boost on my tune is 17psi. I'm really glad this project came up before I went for my re-tune next month. The following changes I think were good ones: The threaded rod pieces are 3/16" shorter. This is probably because of the next 2 items. I used medium threadlocker under the acorn nuts instead of lock washers I didn't use lock washers on the bottom. Seemed redundant with lock nuts there. I put U-channel on all 4 edges of both seams. I put heat shrink tube on the captured part of threaded rods. Other changes didn't necessarily work out: 1) I made the long pieces 1/4" longer. This didn't really matter on the firewall side, or the front hot side. But both top (Pic #3, red) and bottom (green) had to be modified to fit. The lost that extra 1/8" and the bottom lost more than that, but on an angle (farther back on the right side). 2) I'd make the short pieces differently. In Pic #1, you can see I slotted one end for the long pieces to fit into. I would instead cut both legs of the U off and just leave a straight tab to fit inside. Having this part of the short pieces fit all the way into the long pieces provides support when tightening things up. The end result is straighter top pieces (the bottoms bent a bit upon tightening). But the legs that fit on the outside create a fitment problem with the engine cover that requires trimming. Not much, but if those legs weren't there, then the cover would need less work. The big issue with getting the engine cover back on is clearance for the acorn nuts. Using shallow regular nuts instead might be a better option for us LGT guys, but I can't be sure. If you go this route, definitely use threadlocker and no lock washers on the firewall side to gain as much clearance as possible. The other two don't matter at all.
  15. Wow, don't bother with a smiley and everyone turns vicious. It was a joke. You really think if I was going to pirate the idea I'd type out my intentions for everyone to see (and comment on)? I'm not the first to ask. Besides, I'm a miserable salesman, my work ethic isn't strong enough to get these out fast enough to make happy customers, and I'd have to sell hundreds or thousands of these to make it worthwhile to even consider trying to overcome the first two points. I just want to make one with the least chance of wasted materials and a possible restocking trip back to Lowes. Usually, the extra shipping to Canada is closer to the cost of the kit than a dollar. If you have a price in mind, and want the business, I'll gladly send interest parties your way. Assuming I get past the miserable salesman thing. Thanks, SeeeeeYa for your work and the offer. PM incoming.
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