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SeeeeeYa

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SeeeeeYa last won the day on April 23 2023

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About SeeeeeYa

  • Birthday 07/16/1940

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    Charleston WV
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    2021 Crosstrek Ltd

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  1. Just a reminder that the complete construction plans of the BulletProof-TMIC Mod are still available. They enable a DIY approach or as the guide for your machine shop of choice. A PM to me is all it takes to get them as long as I'm still around. I'd be remiss if I did not once again thank all those who have chosen the BPTMIC-Mod over these many years, and a special thanks to all those who contributed to its development and refinement. They took my original crude ideas and made them the finished product. We, the LGT community, built it, but it was the moderators and administrators of LegacyGT.com that provided a home for it. I and the many who have benefitted from it will be forever grateful for their support. A picture of my '05 LGT at full chat on the Dragon is still above my desk. And while I went on to own and modify a number of later Subies, including an STi and three WRXs I'll never own a car that I loved more than my LGT. It is, to me, Subaru''s most beautiful car, with an engine that should have died many times during the years of tuning, modding, and meth... but never failed nor faltered (although it broke about every other thing in the drivetrain LOL). At the end of my ownership it was a local legend that all admired but no one dared to challenge. I miss it and always will. Be safe and enjoy life with all you've got. It is a short trip.
  2. FWIW, I still send the complete plans to anyone who wants them as I have since the beginning. Send me a PM and I'll provide instructions on how to get the plans. This has been mentioned a number of times in the thread but it gets buried I suppose as time goes one... it has been a while.
  3. Notice the silence? That's because the perspective of the person posting the above assumes his satire is funny... kind of like a foul mouthed commedian at a church service is. Wrong crowd son. Many people like their LGTs just the way they came, or close to it. No big turbos, no big mods to threaten one of Subaru's most iconic models ever. What those people want, whatever their minor upgrades, is an LGT that continues to function for as long as possible... without known failure issues haunting them. Some of those potential failure points are well known, as are their solutions. One, the subject of this thread, is the intercooler, and in these pages solutions are discussed... with the BPTMIC Mod the one unfailing solution for those who prefer to keep their LGT's motor inside the OEM envelope. For those who do upgrade their engine's power but don't intend to track their cars the OEM TMIC is still the better street use option... with the BPTMIC Mod providing failure proof longevity for whatever power those upgrades may present it. But if you read the entire thread and not the parts you choose to mock, you'll find contradictions that compromise your act... that people with power upgrades tracked their LGTs, many times, all without failure to their BPTMIC Modded OEM TMIC. You'll also find one other very important fact: Zero failures in all the years since its introduction of properly BPTMIC Modded TMICs. Comforting, yes. Funny, not at all. I suggest you search out similar BPTMIC threads over on the NASIOC forum where your efforts may earn you a standing ovation. But not here. We're a little more refined in our tastes and find people who make fun of others distasteful enough to walk away and ignore. Notice the silence. That's feedback of the genteel kind.
  4. The job, and about the only job, that the mid-pipe resonator does... is remove drone. Without it there will be increased "noise," but it's the ugly kind... merely the pipe's resonances adding to, and adulterating IMO, the motor's sounds. The drone from the lack of a midpipe is why I grew to dislike the SPT exhaust on my '11 WRX... it got to be unbearable on interstate drives. With your down pipe (and I'm assuming tune) it is your stock mufflers that's both restricting power as well as the sound you're looking for. An axelback will solve everything, giving more power and a far better sound.
  5. Depending on which car you have, that may be a risky choice. Some cars have an EDR which records all important vehicle data that can be analyzed in the event of an accident. If there is any bodily injury to any occupants, AND they find the seatbelts weren't on OR the warning chime was off... it'll be your fault and the insurance will likely use that to deny any claims. Heaven help you if there is a death. Then there are civil lawsuits to consider. Just a thought...
  6. As always, for those who have the skills and inclination, my original plans are available on request via email to jeffhufman@yahoo.com. That said, were I to need a BP Mod again, I’d buy a kit. It’s not hard to make, but it is exacting and time consuming. It’s rewarding to see the time-proven results of my once disparaged original name and claims. The Bullet Proof TMIC Mod is just what it says... thanks in large part to this great website, legacygt.com.
  7. This is really great to hear, although it would’ve been nice to have the information promulgated more directly and formally. Still, I'm glad the community has a resource and that the BPTMIC Mod is alive and well... Long live the great LGT!
  8. Me, too! BarManBean to the rescue. It makes the TMIC like it should have come from Subaru... bullet proof.
  9. The most used Subaru clamp for vacuum/boost hoses is part #092311502 Here is an example of kits of clamps available commercially, but they are also available from most autoparts stores. http://www.jegs.com/p/Dorman-Products/Dorman-Corbin-Style-Clamp-Assortment/2392111/10002/-1 Remember that the correct size is one where you need to open the clamp, by squeezing its end wings, to get it onto the hose. You don't want one whose size allows it to easily slide onto the hose without opening it up. This ensures it will have proper tension to maintain clamping force initially as well as over time. Clamps can be carefully squeezed to make them slightly tighter... in a case where none of the clamps on hand, from a kit for example, meets the above criteria, such as on an odd-sized small hose. The proper installation procedure is to squeeze the clamp's ends and hold it open, slide it onto the hose far enough back so that the hose can be fully seated onto the nipple, then the clamp is slid forward to within 1/8-1/4" short of the end of the hose, then released. Corbin clamps are a cheap and permanent solution. Zip ties are cheap for sure, but are not a permanent solution. Zip ties only provide an initial clamping force and do not adjust for aging of the hose. They also degrade with time and environmental influences. Thus, they are a temporary measure and better than no proper clamp at all, but should be replaced with a Corbin Clamp ASAP. It is boggling to me to continue seeing posts about issues related to unclamped hoses... as this forum has been admonishing owners about the inherent problem since 2004 with countless replies like this one. It is even more boggling when the lesson is not learned... and the problem hose, and ONLY that hose, is fixed. There are nearly a dozen barbless nipples with hoses on them in these early LGTs... which some call "vacuum" hoses, but are in fact also BOOST hoses. A hose that blows off only causes running issues in most cases. One, however, the FPR sense hose, can destroy the engine if it comes off. It's not hard to figure out that a "stitch in time" here with Corbin Clamps not only provides peace of mind... it can keep the wallet from being emptied.
  10. Your kits will, most definitely, do their intended job perfectly... protecting the mechanical integrity of the TMIC. After all, I added the front rail on the original as overkill. The top and bottom side rails are what keeps the end tanks on. When I decided to share my long-sought solution for my failing intercoolers, knowing the inevitable onslaught of forum criticism, I chose a name that reflected my confidence in it. That original one didn't have a front rail. During the time I made and sold it, however, I added it as a stamp of finality, covering the visual memory of where the tanks usually came apart. Obviously, however, to the experienced eye it's clear the front will follow the sides... and stay perfectly tight, front rail or not. It is still overkill, which is the way I like to do things. Many years later now, with zero reported failures of properly BulletProofed TMICs, any criticism of the BP Mod's efficacy has long since stilled. It is bulletproof. Thanks to BarManBean it is still available and still BulletProof... even with "slightly shorter-than-spec front rails."
  11. And ALWAYS either use new copper washers or anneal the used ones.
  12. Good innovative modding. I intend to paint my WRX's muffler ends black, too, but am still uncertain of a process that won't flake off like it did on my LGT's... what did you use? Different from my own long buried posts on here with internal mods I made to my LGT's mufflers, which were more performance oriented than cosmetic. Your mods compliment those of mine nicely as options. Here is something I've done on my WRX for performance reasons, and also highlights what is lurking within the LGT's mufflers as well. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2757586
  13. Almost certain it's the TC... mine did the same thing at about the same place.
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