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Tr00b

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  • Location
    Galena, IL
  • Car
    2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium, Black 50K
  • Interests
    Cars, Fermenting things
  • Occupation
    Technical Writer

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  1. Just wanted to update this thread. The claim was rejected on the damage a couple years ago. I've had continual issues with the finish on the car not taking wax correctly and wax coats and sealers looking greasy and streaky especially on the hood roof and trunk when the car heats up. Pretty much said "eff it" and just washed in in the coin wash since then. My financial situation has significantly degraded since then, and I now work from home so I don't need my commuter. I'm trying to sell the car and the buyers are balking at the paint issues and offering me 2-3000 less for the car. I'm asking "fair" kbb already for the car. One guy found rust already on the rear quarters just inside the door where the bottom of the door gap is. Looks like it got sandblasted to the metal with gravel. I thought I submitted pictures already but will update with the damage and where the rust is starting, someone might be able to catch it and stop it on theirs.
  2. I'm noticing that my new battery is having trouble after a few days sitting again. Still haven't been able to get into the dealership to get fixed.
  3. I rotate the tires every oil change 6k mi and wax the wheels and check the caliper sliders. Needed an air cleaner at 45k mi. There is a TSB for the battery drain, taking my car in to get it done. They may be able to check your vin over the phone to see if its been done. My 2016 died at 50k and wipers. I'm tempted to have my dealer "check and advise" on the fluid in the CVT at 50k when they do the TSB on the battery drain.
  4. Brisvegas, aww man, was hoping people would disagree and say it was coming from the door skin/cavity. I am a former pro car audio hobbyist, and I don't see a ton of reason to install any deadening in this car, its "adequate" for a stock car. Except for the rushing sound and the loud rattle deep in the dashboard somewhere.
  5. Got a group 34 Interstate at the local station for well under 150. The battery clamp took a beating from the acid, need to take it out and paint it. They didn't stock group 25. My car also started at 20 below last year no trouble. I want to hate this car enough to sell it but this SiriusXM trial right now and the fuel economy has me loving it again.
  6. I thought it was the weird window design that caused the rushing noise.
  7. Wow, never heard that joke before. FUNNY. On 1200mg of Advil today this car hurts so bad to drive. In other news, my Sirius started working randomly this morning, kina kool.
  8. I had this exact same issue, resolved itself randomly. WTF. Thanks for the solution mr Cobbs
  9. I have been looking into this. Looks like the seat brackets will have to be modified. An entire new seat especially cloth is around $100-200 at this time from car-part.com (just the tracks/brackets might be cheaper for you with the limited leather) so a seat/tracks to hack on is quite reasonable and it should be a few hour project for a welding shop. The REAR brackets can just have the rivet ground out and moved to a different position on the track which will need to be welded/riveted again and ground so the seat will clear. If you look at the track you'll note holes already punched in the track. The FRONT brackets will need to be cut, extended, and reinforced to meet the track where it end. I'd also cut my rear brackets to lower the seat 2" approx as I need a bit more headroom. I would think your max investment would be around $500. The problems: The seats in all trim levels have air bags. The tracks would need to be removed or airbags appropriately disabled to safely weld. The seats are already uncomfortable, my passenger and I usually are already squirming and have numb legs after about the 1-2 hour mark. Driving the car everyday without the proper leg room has exacerbated a knee issue that had made my life living hell. Just going to move on to something else and let someone with the right body shape enjoy the car.
  10. I didn't follow the procedure in post number 3 to the letter but an amp clamp on the wire, either positive or negative results in around .65 amps which is about 10 times the suggested limit of .070 amps. I'm going to try to run through that test as suggested but it's written extremely poorly, especially on the part with the buss bar which my car has. The battery also still tested as failed after 18 hours on a trickle charger. Did only slightly better, 280 amps at 9 volts. A friend was charging his phone in my car an left a USB deal plugged in to the 12v socket, that could also be a part of the draw, remembered it just now. A draw down test, will have to look that one up.
  11. Ammcinnis sorry for the rehash on the question but thanks for the excellent answer. Apexi, I usually buy batteries from the local station and they are pretty good batteries (interstate) and spot on with the warranty. The batteries in my diesel truck are from 2013. Battery failed the test at 260 amps at 8 volts. Going to charge it overnight with a maintainer and try it one more time. Amp clamp is showing .65 amps draw.
  12. I never had actual trouble or inconvenience till now really, will ask about the TSB. I have asked my closest dealership multiple times about any updates to the computers or recalls and they say they don't see anything I have to bring it in. Thanks for the amperage specs. Has anyone retrofit a larger battery?
  13. My 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium (original battery) has had some battery issues the last year or so with an occasional slow crank. The terminals were fuzzy this summer and I cleaned them before I got stranded. Now, it seems to be going dead in a couple days if I don't drive it. I commute an hour so it gets good and topped off when I do. Initial tests show good charging system health, good idle (engine off) voltage. I've borrowed a battery load tester, amp clamp, multimeter. Does anyone know what the nominal amp draw of the car is in park with the ignition off and the doors shut or any common systems that create a draw?
  14. I have a 2016 and have multiple things that bug me about this car: Uncomfortable for long drives for my and my gfs body types. Knee pain, numbness in the legs, fatigue. This is the nail in the coffin for the car for me, I'm parting ways with it because of this. I suggest an extended test drive. Not a lot of fun to drive and slow, do the swaybar upgrade. The paint damages very easily from tree sap and scratching. Snow traction is a total joke with the stock tires. The infotainment system worked perfectly fine when I bought it, was the best one I'd ever used. Now nothing works fully. Things I love about the car: The way it looks The infotainment when working Fuel mileage Ride is very, very good Transmission is seamless and the simulated shift points are spot on Remote unlock functionality Headlights on all the time. Holds it's value great. Very good value for the money. Flawlessly reliable for 50,000 miles, except for one thing- The other day the passenger window switch on the driver's side zonked out.
  15. I agree, Subaru has great head room,the issue I have with the headroom is the smallest part of the problem, honestly. While modifying the seat to go back, it would be nice to also go down. Going down in the rear would help thigh angle/support anyway. Might solve all of the issues, actually. there is PLENTY of meat on the rear brackets to cut/drop. the front is where you need to get creative, extending the factory brackets to meet with the adjuster rail if moved back.
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