SWP XT

Quick update -- -The XT was great again -- Motor runs strong has like 15k on it since the rebuild. I never ended up selling it and it as just over 70k on it now.. Its coming apart now due to a stupid clutch fork failure. What a royal waste of time to replace a $25 part. I always try to do the right thing and replace every foreseeable part when the car is in pieces - guess i missed one. I think the time is near for the car to go to its next owner.. If anyone knows anyone looking for a beautiful 09 White OBXT Stage 3 that is clean let me know.

I would just get the OEM clutch vs the exedy if they are the same. The OEM clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing is less than $300. I'm looking at the SPEC 2+ clutch. if that's $500 I'm fine with spending a couple hundred bucks in the spirit of doing what's right for the next owner. My factory clutch held the power without issue unless you were beating the hell out of it on a hot day. If its 95 degrees out and you were taking some launches and really pushing the car and shifting a lot you could get some slip on the 3/4 shift and toward peak power in 4th. Daily driving and mashing the throttle once you were already rolling to pass some cars on the highway or a couple hard downshifts to blow by someone or just have some fun were not a problem. That being said a couple hundred bucks to make that concern go away would be worth it so long as the drivability doesn't become miserable. Personally as a DD I would much rather a smooth and low effort clutch and know that beating it to death is a problem on hot days than live everyday with a clutch that makes driving in traffic a nightmare. So all of you Spec 2+ clutch owners how would you feel about driving it every day in traffic? Max Capacity - how was the spec 2 on a DD?

I'll check the availability of both. Thanks for the great info on clutches. I'll go either spec 2+ or the exedy since both are holding appropriate power levels. I thought the 05-09 didn't have the single mass flywheel I'll check mine when I get hone today. I didn't really pay attention to which one it is. That would be nice if I can just have it resurfaced.

Yes that's without the flywheel but resurfacing mine is easy enough unless there is a good alternative that isn't $1000+. I know the factory clutch can take the power as its been doing it for 45k+ but if a reasonable replacement cost wise exists I don't mind spending a little more to make it better.

The oem with my dealer discount is only like 300 with new throwout bearing. I was hoping for like a quiet stage 1 clutch upgrade.

Ordered the King Rod and Main bearing kits. (Got enough of each size to mix and match for proper clearances to the crank just in case. ) Added Rod Bolts to my list of regular parts to acquire from the local dealer. I'll order the rest of the stuff on Monday (clutch etc). Surprised nobody knows of a better clutch that is close to factory feel.

Anyone by chance know the part numbers for those or seen the diagram anywhere? I'll pull the Subaru diagrams later unless someone knows which ones they are. Also what is the deal with the inlet tear that's pretty common. I would think with 58k mine would be OK but I certainly want to check as I remember the AZP guys swearing at JaseJase's during the install many years ago! Also thanks for advice on Oil Pickup - Ordered the Moroso 24965 Pickup.

Yes JaseJase you are correct. I always get the topfeed and sidefeed injector CC backwards.

Back from Machine shop with update. Block and heads are all perfect. Crank was measured in all locations to be sure, block was inspected, heads checked for flatness and for excessive cam journal wear. Clearances for cam's is right on. Machine shop laughed and then asked why on earth I took it apart. So unless there is another valid reason not to do so I will be doing the following: 1) All new Main and Rod bearings (Probably go with a slightly upgraded like King or ACL - Any thoughts?) Cost is marginally more expensive than OEM seems like the right thing to do for the extra $50 or so. 2) I'll be replacing all 4 pistons and rings with OEM Parts. 3) Obviously I'll need a full Engine re-assembly gasket kit 4) The oil pickup was tested for leaks but I know this is a point of failure – How much more is the aftermarket one that allegedly doesn’t suffer this failure. Remember mine only has 58k on it. 5) New timing belt 6) New Clutch assembly (Stock at this point unless there is another suggestion that has stock feel) 7) New Thermostat What am I Missing? Other suggestions?

Yes Stock Fuel Rails and I'm not aware of an issue with the 09 rails but i'm sure someone else can chime in on that.

Running the DW740 Injectors and a DW Fuel Pump. Had plenty of fueling available injector duty cycle wasn't being pushed terribly at all.

Knock has been really non existent. I get a couple Single knock events at very low rpm which we tied to the turbo heat shield vibrating against the process west tmic mount a couple years ago. Took off the heat shield and nose went away as did knock. Put it back on and bent the bracket which worked for a while. Every 6-12 months I have to take off the heat shield on the turbo and re align it to avoid the clanking noise at Low rpm (from vibration). For some reason it always works it's way back and must be around the frequency the sensor is looking for. Who is derp? Tell him or her to PM me. My learning view is very clean. There Are two low load low rpm cells where the false knock gets detected. I had recently fixed the heat shield so recent learning view and logs had no knock.

Max Capacity is right - running a bit lower boost these cars are very fun and reliable but most of us have been caught by some kind of failure or another. I will truly miss the car in the end because its a real joy to drive. And its pure SLEEPER in the wagon form!

Unlikely to be out of round seeing as compression and leakdown were perfect on the other 3 cylinders and honestly cylinder 4 walls look more pristine than some of the others. This is why i'm taking it to the shop though - to be certain we have good hardware before rebuilding - its just not worth all that time and expense without knowing you have good underpinnings. I really don't want to do it again! I run my Cobb APv3 on the dash at all times. We have tons of logs and I run active display of Boost, AFR, Knock, Timing, etc. Its one of those pay to play kind of things. As most of us Subaru nuts with modified cars would say "Its not if your going to break something but rather WHEN!". At least the next owner will have one less thing to worry about for awhile (assuming it gets sold modified).

UPDATE: Motor goes to the machine shop tomorrow to have the crankshaft measured, and the heads inspected. Want to make sure that its 100% if I'm going to go option 1. If it comes back outside of factory tolerances we go Option #2. Not messing around here and I'll have an update in the morning to share.