Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

jagoulet

Members
  • Posts

    87
  • Joined

jagoulet's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. I agree . . . would rather replace the switch than go on a wire adventure hunt. thanks for your thoughts . . .
  2. I got the wheel well opened up and good view of the washer pumps. Bottom line: if I swap the leads (front-rear) then the front pump works fine when I rotate the control arm on the steering column. Hence it seems there is no power being provided. The wipers come on fine with either setup. Do I need a new switch on the steering column? Swapping the leads got me thru the annual inspection, so I have plenty of time now.
  3. hi! I have a 2009 Impreza hatchback with regular 2.5 L motor. The washer pump for the front wipers does not work. Wipers work. Fuse OK. Rear pump works, rear wiper works. Where is the pump for the front? (front wheel well?) Anything I need to know . . don't be bashful! thanks! John Mass
  4. So . . . after lots of checking . . . it seems like the bearing in the AC clutch is shot. Intermittent but pretty clear. This caused alot of current draw which killed the fuse. That said, does anyone have a source for a clutch rebuild kit for this car? (2009 2.5i) Seems to consist of a bearing and a couple snap rings. Maybe more. thanks! john
  5. There is, from the wiring diagram, a "blower motor diode" said to be on the right side of the dash. Does anyone know exactly where this is? If it failed and was Open, no power would be available to the switch. Should be easy to test - passes current one way, no current the other. But where is it? (Does the switch provide power to the blower or does it ground out the circuit? )
  6. If I'm reading the subaru parts diagram right, relay #1 and relay #4 are the same part number? So you could swap the blower relay with one labeled #1? Not sure why they have different #'s then.. I took them both out to swap but they (in my case) are physically different - pins and so on.
  7. the fuse listing on the cover (by the driver's left knee) has "blower" as the 2 lower left fuses. I took both out and checked and they pass current. How does one get the lower cover off of the dash/instruments to get at any of this? Is the "Blower Fan Relay" in the box under the hood? (left side behind battery) (Later) I found a Youtube video where the guy locates and swaps out the motor-resistor. It is behind and to the left of the glove box. Not far from the blower. So I can remove this and bench test it with a multimeter. Now the guy in the video says position "4" is full voltage - no resistance . I don't believe position 4 works either (will double check). If not then I have to wonder if there is any power at that point. But that's getting ahead of things . . . (even later) got the motor resistor out. Pretty low tech. Gold pin and 3 silver. I tried resistance between each silver and the gold and found no open circuits. No signs of burnt windings. So now back at the switch itself for the fan. It has, to the lower left,rear window defrost, and to the lower right, air recycling. Also an AC button. NONE of those, when pressed, cause the little indicator lights to come on inside them. So I have to wonder if there is a single power source for that group of controls, and right now it's dead. Perhaps the fan not working is a symptom of a more general problem. I will try swapping those 2 relays. Thank you for all your assistance!
  8. I got into it a bit. The blower is easy to get to, behind the glove box. I unplugged it, took a spare battery and jumpers, and it blows just fine. Meanwhile, with the key On and the switch for the fan in various positions, there is no voltage at the connector to the fan. Consistent. So that seems to leave me with the switch and the resistors (3). I am dubious as how 3 resistors could all fail at the same time , so the switch seems a real possibilitly. Getting the lower cover off looks formidable. Comments? thanks! john
  9. this is great! the blower must be running for the AC to work. That doesn't happen. With the AC off, still nothing happening (could be defrosting the windshield hypothetically) Being able to bench test the motor is a big help!
  10. thanks! So would you just replace both components and be done with it?
  11. hi! The blower motor has stopped entirely. I checked the fuses (2 15A) and both pass a continuity test. So there is an open circuit? Some research shows a "resistor" so could that have failed? I get the impression that the motor can be removed if the glove box is removed. Any experiences or advice appreciated! John 2009 2.5 L Impreza - - normally aspirated hatchback
  12. I bought a pair of 2nd hand Igniters for $13@. Just plugged one in. Fired up, sounded great and idled smoothly for the first time in ages. Believe that was it. Will go out and drive it later. Thanks for the education, guys! john
  13. I will check out the cam sensor for crud. Timing: I only have 3 & 4 to go by . . . would either be of any use? It runs quite well for running on only 2 cylinders so the timing would seem ok (?) Am on the hunt for a replacement igniter. Can't hurt to own a spare anyway. Don't seem expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use