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nwsurfwakeskate

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About nwsurfwakeskate

  • Birthday 10/17/1985

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  • Location
    Port Ludlow, WA
  • Car
    2005 Legacy GT wagon Manual
  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer

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  1. Received my kit today. I order the 2 hose kit as I didn't really understand/see the need to replace the 3rd line that runs under the intake manifold. I read the instructions but thought they were lacking a bit. I was really confused about the first line saying remove the oil supply banjo bolt remove the screen and reinstall the bolt. I didn't think we were reusing any bolts so this first line item in the instructions really confused me what the heck it was talking about. A combo of the instructions and reading this site was what I needed to get the job done. All in all the job was super easy and only took about 45mins once I got setup. I was even able to leave the stock intercooler in place. The only dis-assembly I had to do was remove the intake tube, engine cover and the side of the air filter box that hold the MAF sensor. Tools required. 17mm socket (valve cover banjo bolt, cap for old turbo oil supply line) 2 17mm open end wrenches (for loosening the old oil supply hard line union) 14mm socket (turbo old banjo bolt) 10mm socket (old oil hardline bracket bolt) 9/16" open end wrench (oil line fittings) 9/16" socket (new turbo banjo bolt) 11/16" socket (new valve cover banjo bolt) Blade screwdriver (for removing intake hose) Phillips screwdriver (for removing popits on engine cover) 2 socket extensions (for reaching the turbo banjo bolt and the valve cover banjo bolt) Allen wrench (can't remember what size but required for the filter support bracket) I may have needed a 5/8" socket and a 12mm socket too but I can't remember where I used them or if I even used them.
  2. Well I finally dove into this to try and fix my 3rd brake light and rear dome light issues. ended up cutting the boot in the middle so that I could fold it over its self. Without doing this I couldn't get enough wire exposed to add some butt splices in. Sure enough there was 2 wires broken and about half a dozen that were cut through the insulation. I repaired the wires that were broken and wrapped everything up in Rescue Tape (silicone tape). Both the 3rd brake light and rear dome light work the way they are supposed to now. I tried opening up the headliner a little bit to see if this was an easy wiring harness to replace. The shit looks like it runs everywhere and its electrical taped into every other wire harness that comes near it both in the tailgate and in the headliner! WTF subaru!!!! I'm debating cutting the whole thing and rewiring each connection eventually but for now my bandaid repair should hold for awhile. Thank God the brake lights aren't in the tailgate. that could be a serious problem!
  3. 05 RBP wagon 122k miles. 3rd brake light quite working about a month ago and my rear dome light only turns on when I first open the hatch but then goes out after the hatch is more then 2 inches open. Any ideas where to start? I pulled the rubber boots back on the wires running through the hinges and they looked fine from what I could tell. Have yet to open up the trim yet. Pics or a how-to would certainly be nice! Thanks, CJ
  4. thats funny...I never really had problems with that. only time I get fumes is when myself or someone else spills some oil on top of the engine when doing an oil change. Which usually goes away after about a week of driving.
  5. indeed indeed. just wasn't sure if we were loosing low end torque by reducing back pressure without doing a tune
  6. yeah removing the gaskets makes it A LOT louder. I did it without removing the gaskets first and initially it sounded good but I think the gaskets expanded and actually resealed the gap a bit over a period of about 6 months. so I pulled them out and finally got the sound I was looking for. any idea if there is negative long term effects on doing this mod?
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