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NewScooby

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  • Location
    Illinois
  • Car
    SWP 5MT LGT Sedan

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  1. Turn in Concept's 08 STI is one sexy ride. I saw it out on track at Autobahn Country Club the end of last month. I've got my bushings filled with the poly goo and 70% or more of the NVH is gone with this fix. I'm actually considering removing the rear suspension and subframe (if this can be done with all bolts) and having a local machine shop create some solid aluminum or delrin bushings for the rear diff carrier and control arm bushings.
  2. After 3 months with the filled bushings the results are pretty good. I had no growl down to 30 degrees or so. But after some consistant 20 degree days of leaving my car outside at work the growl has returned somewhat. Maybe 25% back, nowhere near as loud as it used to be. Sean, How about a poly bushing kit for the entire rear suspension? I'd buy it. I'm close to buying a block of Delrin and have a local machine shop replace every bushing I can unbolt and take to them. lateral links, lower diff crossmember, and trailing arms.
  3. Can anyone tell me if this brake cooling kit will work with the Legacy front spindles? http://quantummotorsports.com/02-06wrx_kits.htm#Plate%20Kit
  4. Please do a walkthru when you install these. I would prefer a true permanent solution over the filled bushings, especially if I go beyond stage 2. I'm not surprised the growl is still there on a car with an upgraded turbo, thats assuming the issue gets worse the more torque the car has.
  5. It's thick stuff, I had no drips. Looking for the ultimate hold, I cleaned the bushings with a toothbrush and brake cleaner prior to "Operation Polygrip" I considered making an insert. The reason I didn't was that I was able to fill the bushings with the windshield poly flush with the bottom of the nut holding the bushing over to the outside metal ring of the bushing on both sides, creating on sold glob of material going from one side of the bushing thru the middle to the other side. Just one of likely many effective ways of getting rid of the Growl Also, there is enough to do at least 3 or 4 cars in each tube.
  6. I've already got the SuperPro bushings, I bought them from you. Great product, good price, and quick shipping BTW:lol: Thanks for the info on the arms.
  7. I'm talking about these, which look to be very nice quality, but these can be built equally as good for under $100. I'm just not sure I want/need them at this time. http://www.jscspeed.com/lgt/lgt_base.html
  8. So far so good on filling the bushings. I was WOT in first and second many times this morning with no thumping, vibration, etc. Just smooth acceleration. I agree with Seeeee Yaa, even if bushings come to market, they will be a bear to install. Not an easy job for a weekend do it yourselfer, like myself. For those interested in trying out the poly filler method, if replacement bushings do come out, the filled bushings will not be any harder to remove than stock ones. Also, the rear diff can also be removed just the same as stock. Other than costing a few bucks and being a PITA to clean up, I see no drawbacks so far to using the windshield poly to eliminate the growling rear end issues. After looking at the rear Lower control arm bushings I decided to leave those for another day.
  9. My car is currently up on jack stands, and I filled the rear diff bushings with the 3M Windshield poly crap that comes in a caulk tube to see if that eliminates the growling noise. I call it crap because it takes a scotchbrite pad and brake cleaner to get this stuff off your skin. If you try this, get some latex gloves and wear a long sleeved shirt. No pictures were taken either; I was way to dirty to pick up my camera. I’m going to let the car sit for at least 24 hours before I drive it. It has been cool hear in the AM, so I will post up in a few days when I know for sure that the growl is gone. I am going to a track day next Saturday and Sunday so I went ahead and did this while I was changing out the brake pads and flushing the brake fluid.
  10. :icon_arroThanks, good to hear I don't need to disassemble everything! I didn't start getting the growl in warm weather until I put new firmer front and rear struts on and started putting the power down much more effectively without all the squatting it was doing before. BTW if anyone is interested, 3M Windshield poly available at Autozone for $14.95. I'll be putting the car on jackstands some upcoming weekend and going to town, and I'll do the two forward rear lower control arm bushings too!
  11. Thanks Keefe, The combo of XP12's/XP8's and DBA rotors sound good to me. I will not be back to Road America until this time next year and any other tracks that I attend before then will be at least 15-20 mph slower, so I'm sure I will be good with the XP12's. Just curious, Are XP16's on RT615's to aggressive of a pad? I plan to stick with street tires for at least the next two years before stepping up to R compounds.
  12. I am considering taking out my rear Diff and doing the "windshield crack filler mod" that I have read on other forums to stiffen the bushings as I can sometimes make the growl even in 80 degree weather now. That or buying a new set of OEM bushings and modifying them. Do any of the poly bushing companies sell cheap chunks, that we can cut down on a lathe?
  13. Keefe, I just had my first track day last weekend and now I have a few brake questions. 1. Except for one instance braking from 125-50mph, I had a firm pedal feel all weekend. Plenty of brake fade, but my pedal would stay firm. After then my pedal feel was fine. I have 2 week old ATE fluid, is it time for a flush? 2. Have you ever run more aggressive pads on the front and left the rear with an aggresive street pad like the Hawk HPS? Does this mess up the brake bias too much? (I am thinking of StopTech rotors and XP10's for the front as my next possible upgrade) 3. My rotors both front and rear are discolored around the outside and inside edges, I'm guessing this is normal. How is a good way to judge if you need new rotors? Have you turned any stock LGT rotors with success or just replaced them? BTW, I went with the RT615's after chatting with you in another thread and these are such a great tire for the money IMO, far more grip than my old Kumho MX's. One guy at the track told me that after a few heat cycles the 615's get hard, does that sound about right?
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