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cww

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About cww

  • Birthday 06/06/1988

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  • Location
    ABQ, NM
  • Car
    07 spec.B, 16 Colorado diesel z71 4x4

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  1. Rode some singletrack for the first time this year. So tired. Also, met a LGT wagon at the trailhead and talked for a minute. Good day.
  2. agreed. if want to risk my life being on two wheels on public roads surrounded by cars, i'll be on my motorcycle. riding my mtn bike for the first time this season on Thursday. anticipating limping into work on Friday lol
  3. The NASCAR Truck is sweet. I'm not even a NASCAR fan but I've always had an affinity for the SuperTrucks. Not quite the same, but have you seen the Time Attack Syclone truck? http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/10/gmc-scyclone-feature/ If I suddenly had a ton of money to dump into a project, I would love to build something like that. Primarily because those old mini trucks are an easy way to start off RWD and very light weight. My favorite part of that Syclone build is the massive radiator and oil cooler in the former tailgate area with the bed having the aero ramp to channel air. Regarding the duct blower, that is really a great and cheap solution. A quick search shows they are sub $20. http://www.roushyatesparts.com/Detmar-Blower-p/det-758-blower.htm
  4. Plain Grade A Goat Milk Yogurt as brake fluid.. giving away all your racing secrets.
  5. This relieves the stalling symptom, but does not fix the underlying problem, which is that you have air entering the engine after the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) at the intake. This means the car's computer (ECU) is always having to correct the fuel added in order to maintain the proper air-to-fuel ratio (A/F) in any situation in which the manifold is in vacuum, which includes idle and cruising on the highway at constant speed / incline. If it is a minor leak, this means you're hurting your fuel economy. If it is a major leak, things get worse because the most your Subaru ECU can correct for is about 15% error in A/F. If you have more air entering at the leak than the car can correct for by adding fuel by this 15% margin, you will be running LEAN at idle, and worse, while cruising. This means there is less fuel than is needed to keep things in the cylinder from getting too hot, which can cause damage to the engine internals over the long term. Even if the stalling goes away after the engine warms up, it is still possible you have a leak all the time but it is not enough to cause an obvious symptom (the major leak "fixes" itself into a minor leak). For my car this showed itself as a stutter while coasting down in 1st gear, like while going slowly down a long hill. I would always have to push the clutch in while trying to do this, even after the engine had been warm for many hours. Long story short: this is a PITA to fix but the parts are cheap. Either turn a wrench or pay someone to do it for you... but you need to fix this problem if it is indeed a leak at the intake manifold gaskets. Good luck!
  6. That 1.1 ratio comes from the "transfer drive gear" and "transfer driven gear" which are in between the center diff and the prop shaft. The ratios at the center diff are equal because 1.1*3.54=3.90. The center diff "sees" the same gearing... it is the same as if the front and rear diffs were 3.90 with a 1.0 transfer. As to why Subaru did this... I don't know. I've never seen a good explanation on here or on NASIOC.
  7. all 6MT spec.Bs ('07-'09) have VDC. and yes, 50/50 split through a viscous LSD. front diff is open and rear diff is Torsen LSD
  8. Rode three days over the holiday weekend. It was great. Two single track rides and one more XC ride through sandy oil well access roads / fire roads. I was hauling down hill on the 2nd single track day, came around a bend into a huge patch of loose sand... front wheel went 90 degrees and I went over. Did a full front flip and landed on my ass in the sand with only some scrapes. Funny / lucky.
  9. Brown Legacy parked next to me at the Kroger on S. Maple in Ann Arbor, earlier today. New York plates. Stig sticker on left back window, Watkins Glen track outline sticker on right back window. You on here?
  10. ^that's a quality 2nd post right there. good idea to use the strap to hold the manifold
  11. It was 10 deg F during my morning commute today, and I'm reporting back that replacing these gaskets totally fixed my cold engine rough idle problem. Warm engine idle is also smoother, and there is much less stutter during 1st and 2nd gear decel / coasting. After seeing the condition of the original gaskets and the oil and dirt buildup around them, I believe they were leaking badly when cold and possibly leaking slightly all the time. So yea, very happy with the results. It's been mentioned by others earlier in this thread, but I would like to reiterate a few things: 1) plan for this to take 3 or 4 hours due to the extremely tight spaces 2) you NEED dental picks and a small mirror 3) removing the air pump and throttle body hose greatly increases access on the driver's side 4) IMO, the easy way to seat the gasket is to place it on the TGV surface, line up the tab, and push the manifold down (instead of working it around into the groove)
  12. I started to experience these symptoms when the temperature dipped below 20 deg F. Also, got a CEL two occasions over the past 2 weeks (P0171 code "System Too Lean - Bank 1"). I picked up the gaskets at the dealership last night. The tech at the parts counter said something like "they should've put these on all the cars," so I'm assuming this is a fairly common issue. I believe this only happens when it's very cold outside. It goes away once the TGVs and gaskets heat up and expand. Does it seem to be weather dependent?
  13. Thanks! And not surprising. Michigan: where the water is fresh and the roads are salty
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