socalsleeper

No specific reason. Aside from a few ratio differences between a couple years, most of the units are very similar. Maybe 'it's a newer gearbox' is the idea, but they are not that new anymore so there goes that idea... I don't want to have to source another diff especially since I resealed, and refreshed the one I have in the car now. I guess that is part of it. I think the 2007 has the same ratios, but still uses the speed sensor, in any case there is a solution for using the wheel speed sensors for the speedometer. If I'm going to install a DCCD controller what is one more component. Really anything 2007 and newer should work just fine, mostly same shifters, sensors and connections from that I have read so far. If there is something I'm missing please let me know I don't want to make an expensive mistake.

Thanks definitely some elbow grease involved. I have the 'just do it right' while you have the part in your hands mentality. For example I will probably coat the OEM manifolds with cerakote, I really like the look, and I have heard it holds up pretty well. For a small investment like a cheap harbor freight spray gun and the product you can have some very nice looking parts. I'm also the person to keep the parts around even if I get a set of headers later. I will be using an STI 6speed, prob 2008-2014 version. I already have the diff installed I'm pretty sure I have pictures of that in the thread at some point. I just reached out to a shop that can tear it down and inspect it for me. I don't want to install a unit with 100K miles and has been abused. I still need to do some math on buying used versus a new unit from Subaru. I was only going to buy an RA block and slap it together, but I splurged and got the build motor, no point in cheaping out now.

Here is the thread, link As far as the aluminum goes, there are a few things at play. 1st I had many parts media blast actually not that expensive, 2nd I had the valve covers hot tanked with the heads, and lastly I did apply some aluminum paint to prevent stains on the raw metal. The paint is a very good match to raw aluminum which made it interesting to paint fully. The heads had a valve job and the AVCS cams were also cleaned by the machine shop.

Don’t mean to spam the forum but I know this is where most of the active users are. I got my new engine in the car last weekend. I have a thread going if anyone is interested in the progress. I also put a coat of exhaust paint on the mid-pipe.

Just got back from California were I was finally able to turn some wrenches. Aside from some headaches with UPS I got the seal kit head studs etc and got the long block together. I used some aluminumizer paint on various parts like the crossover pipe, alternator and power steering bracket, valve covers. Most of these parts were previously media blasted so the paint is just to keep oil and grease from staining the bare aluminum. I got the engine in the car but I have a few loose ends I need to get sorted before start up. I still need to source a transmission so the list is still too long for my liking.

I used to work for the Germans, talk about expensive parts!!! Brakes were $1,000 per axle that was just a service, not replacing calipers or anything major, just pads and rotors. I'm definitely not giving up at this point. I have seen a few Legacy's up for sale lately for $8-10K, I know I will never get my money back if I had to sell it, which I wouldn't. We don't do this for the return, definitely not at this level. You might be able to flip an accord if you just toss tires and a headgasket at it, but not an STI with a built motor and every seal and bushing replaced. Glad to see I'm in good company.

What all is involved in the SI Drive? I would assume quite a bit to be complete. Gauge cluster, wiring, electronics. Is there a thread already?

Hello everyone, I got my flights booked, going to be turning some wrenches in mid-April. I ordered the head-studs, seal kit, timing belt kit etc. I have spent most of my time trying to get as organized as possible, you should see my One Note. I got part list, and part numbers, OEM part break down diagrams, To-do list, it is definitely a sickness at this point. My excel sheet has my total cost so far north of $15K and I still need a grearbox and coilovers, and to get in touch with a tuner for startup. Fuel System Recently I purchased new fuel pulse dampers, and DIY'ed new quick disconnect fuel lines to connect the bulkhead lines to the OEM top mount fuel rails. Unless I missed anything I have version 1.0 of the fuel system 95% done. I just need to run power to the rear mounted relay for the fuel pressure controller, I replaced the LGT unit with an STI part. I was originally going to have small fuse box in the rear with the rear mounted battery, for now I just need a wire with a fuse. In the future I will probably get new rails, new injectors, and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Cooling System I ordered the heater, and radiator hoses from Rock Auto, not fancy Samco but they will do the job. I also ordered the oil heat exchanger delete kit. For initial startup and break-in this works, I might just run an aftermarket cooler anyways, might as well save $ on the OEM unit. I will be reusing the OEM radiator as well, unless it leaks at which point I will upgrade. I'm waiting to hear back from SoCal Porting on the turbo service. If they can fit me in while I'm in the area I will be dropping it off for an upgrade. This thing has been in storage for so long now that one wonders if this is all worth it, to me it is. I guess I'm just too stubborn to let this die. I am really looking forward to that first fire up.

Yes, it was. I just made a new set of lines for my car. It is a clone of the updated 2008-2014 dual damper setup not very expensive. With all new parts, hose, clamps, dampers, quick disconnects it was about $75. I am using top feed OEM lines so the FPR is mounted on the drivers side rail assy. I'm converting from Side to Top feed with OEM parts TGVs, rails etc. I hope I have all the mix and matching sorted now. For the vacuum reference I will use the cylinder 4 signal, but I will T it into another vacuum source to get a more stable signal.

Do you have the crossover style dampers or the updated version without the bleed line?

I don't want to offend with a lowball offer, what would you accept for the intercooler to 91766? Thank you and GLWS.

Long over due but a quick update. I recently purchased a new Outfront Motorsports shortblock, the Grocery Getter build. I also had them do a valve job on the cylinder heads so those are also ready to go. I also have top feed TGVs (I removed the center casting but left the butterfly flaps), a set of stock blue injectors (565cc), an APS hard inlet tube, and a VF52 on hand. The turbo will likely get a 16G wheel in it before start up. All this to say the current plan is to have this moving on its own power by late summer early fall. This is mostly due to any work requires a 5 hour flight each way or this would be much sooner. I'm fortunate to have a great paying stable job but island life is not cheap... Looking forward to getting this done. In the mean time I'm on the hunt for some parts on all the marketplaces, Ebay etc. The goal is the straightest line from A to B just so I can get it here, meaning this is going to be an odd bird, junkyard struts, OEM down pipe, with a built motor, upgraded turbo etc.

I'll prob message you very soon. As soon as I put out this work fire!

How's the rear seat looking?

I just read all of what was posted, that took a minute. But very informative bravo gents and ladies? Coming into this 'fresh' it appears that there are only a few options each worst than the last. A) Mismatch top feed (3 pin) TGVs with the plastic manifold. The computer might be happy, nothing lines up exactly right, but hey you can use top feed injectors. This requires filling the center holes with weld or epoxy then drilling and tapping new faster holes. B) Top feed (3 pin) TGVs and swap you manifold while your at it. Not the craziest option, but you will get nickel and dimmed to who knows what final amount. Its only money right... C) Run the (OME) side feeds, remove the flaps and leave the link bar to keep the ECU happy. You will need more expensive side feed injectors, but again its only money... FUK!!! C part II) Side feed (3 pin) housings but use side feed conversion adapters, however they leak sometimes. This is an option for top-feed injectors but not a great one. D) If you fear the man, leave the TGVs as is and run side feeds. Save yourself this one particular headache. E) Try to run the (5 pin) TGVs try to engineer a some kind of electrical trickery (Arduino some other custom circuit maybe??) to convert the signals to the appropriate values given the position of the flaps. F) Last and most ridiculous option. Have someone model the TGV housings with the correct bolt pattern for the plastic manifold that also accepts the dual connector config. This has to also consider the bolt spacing for the top feed fuel rails. I have to look at the pics again to clarify this point, but this seems like a dead end anyways. Even if you can 3d print some prototypes machining the real deal is another thing altogether. I am trying to get my project going, yet again... I was all excited to get my Ebay top feed TGVs (which we mislabeled so FML), its a 5 pin. But this seems to be a waste unless I go the manifold route and get the right housings to start.