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GEE-OTTO

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GEE-OTTO last won the day on December 24 2023

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Personal Information

  • Location
    Chantilly VA
  • Car
    23 ISM WRX
  • Interests
    Math, Cars, The 80's, Computers, maps, subarus
  • Occupation
    Systems Guy

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  • User Title
    GEE OTTO

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  1. My 08LGT pulled much harder than my 23 WRX and was more luxurious (power seats leather, and a rear seat pass through) I thought hard about a Touring trim OB but I love the look of the Wilderness. The WRX is the most exciting one but overall Fun to drive Subarus are sparse in the year 2024
  2. I’ll say this the stock sound system in my 08 and 09 LGTs were way better than my 23 WRX. Even with the HK upgrade the under-seat sub hit harder. Daily driving was never an issue if anything the only real downside was 93OCT but in my 2.5i gas was an afterthought. In stock form they aren’t bad cars but over 6 years I paid Mach V $12k for routine maintenance and repairs to wear items. I could have maintained a used Panamera for the same cost and both cars would still be worth about the same
  3. I saw your Spec.B listed for $17k by the person that bought it from you.
  4. I sold my 08 LGT 5MT the third 4th gen Legacy and second GT! I bought a 2023 WRX to replace it. The modern touches are insane and it’s not really that advanced lol. I still wanted a manual but to rebuild my EJ255 the right way (the way I wanted which was 100% OEM) was going to cost me about $12k, wasn’t worth it. I miss all my Legacy’s however.
  5. Last item of the parts stash NIB AVO JDM Double DIN HVAC kit $200 obo Prices don’t include shipping and if you are in and or around the NoVA/DC/MD area I can meet. Cash/ApplePay/Venmo/PayPal
  6. Year, Make and Model: 2008 Subaru Legacy GT Color: Quartz Silver Metallic Miles: 232,500 Transmission: 5MT Title: Clear In Hand Lien: None Location: (Chantilly, VA) VIN: 4S3BL676286216924 Seller's email address: (gee_otto@hotmail.com) Asking Price: SOLD For sale is my 08 LGT 5MT I posted this earlier this year then changed my mind. I’m the second owner bought it in 2016 with 160k miles currently has 232k will rise slightly. Mods: GS EBCS GS DP COBB AP with Tuning Alliance custom 93OCT Tune KartBoy STS WRX Wheels and Continental DWS tire (235/45/17) 7k miles on the set with TPMS paired New Headlights JDM Grille JDM Double DIN conversion with JVC head unit Slightly Lowered on H&R springs Brakes and wheel bearings updated two years ago Axleback replaced with custom mufflers and piping not loud or obnoxious Rear shock with H&R springs and spacer Taxtrix Cable/Dongle Miscellaneous small parts Condition: The good Body is in decent shape no rust but dings and scuffs from the many adventures into VT and WV to ski and bike. Small dings on roof from parking under an oak tree ( this year the acorns were outrageous ) also scuffs on spoiler from bike rack and the clear coat on the handles is fading (common issue). Interior is good for age the drive seat has come unstitched (another common issue) but doesn’t affect heating function. The cubby is cracked from the dealer replacing the dash but it doesn’t bother me enough to replace it. All sensors and light and functions work sunroof and windows all work fine with no leaks. Transmission shifts smooth always serviced with Motul Gear 300 by Mach V here in VA. Mach V also replaced the driver OCV, PS pump and resealed the oil pan in 2021 The Bad Car leaks oils from turbo drain hose area not the turbo but the hose and or hard line into the pan or wherever it goes. Could be possibly pinging around 2500 to 2800 RPM I made a thread about it to get feedback earlier this year. Both issues could be fixed if I were to rebuild it( no complaints from me about a EJ255 with 232k miles) but I likely won’t as life and work and all that jazz takes precedent. I actually am going to buy a new car now I have a couple weeks off from work and can devote time to dealing with the dealerships. Car is priced with the parts and condition in mind based on what I’ve seen for sale over the past year. Would like to sell everything to a single buyer as it’s easiest. Car is VA inspected until Jan 2024 and drives fine. Any questions just ask Im happy to answer them, been around a long time: and motivated to sell
  7. Oh yeah when my PS pump went and OCV that area got splashed with various fluids
  8. Im with @m sprank I have this exact car with double the miles. Great condition overall! The only thing that might cause question is the heatshields look as though they are soaked in oil from a leak, is that water, oil, wet rust etc. ?
  9. So update had a 600 mile stint of driving for various summer adventures between VA and WV. I added the Knock sum to the AP to monitor it and at various times it would be at 7, 23, 34 then reset. One thing I recalled after reading the comments I filled up at a no-name gas stating when this started, I typically run 93 V-Power. I ran that tank out after this post and filled up with V-Power at my normal Shell, no pronounced rattle like before. If it is the start of the end, I can't complain, 227K miles and counting of majority smiles and worry free operation. Also shopping a VB WRX in Ice Silver Metallic to replace this 08 LGT. Ill keep yall posted!
  10. I think yes! It would go away above or beyond that load range. And that makes sense as my first thought was “why are my valves rattling” Ill get a video to show the sound. No mods and no tuning changes. Timing has 62k mikes on the parts but everything else is original. No changes in oil or fuel consumption and AP monitors are normal. Appreciate the comments!!
  11. Just recently my 08LGT developed a rattle at part throttle out of boost but but before getting into boost, similar to valve train chatter when you are lugging the engine. Checked for low oil it’s fine near the top of the operating range per the stick(cold and hot). So I go out driving and it seems to only occur around 2300-2800 RPM part throttle, when I increase throttle it goes away doesn’t happen at lower or higher than that RPM range. I once read that timing tensioners/idlers can cause this as they fail. Have any of you had a similar issue? Could it be a jumped tooth?
  12. Bingo it was the line running from the IM to the Fuel line junction above to air pump. As soon as took the cover I saw it. I used a small worm clamp to secure it to nipple. I also checked all the others luckily I zipped tied them all during the install of the EBCS, new IC and new turbo inlet. Reset ECU, drove on the high way for 15 miles at 60 MPH, did a WOT pull DAM is at 1.00. Followed that up with mixed driving all modes DAM still 1.00 and FKLC and FK are 0.00. I can’t believe how long (2 months) I drove like that, will check those lines more often and probably replace them when I replace the IM to TGV gaskets
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