Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

ripemeat

Members
  • Posts

    562
  • Joined

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Location
    Warning
  • Car
    Saxual content
  • Occupation
    A little of everything

ripemeat's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (10/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. sounds like a valve problem. valve seals expand as they warm. sounds like they're too tight.
  2. You've been out of the game too long Ian, that's an 08+.
  3. 08-09 QSM LGT with patriots plate frame at the chartlon rest stop today.
  4. I've ridden in many LGT's, both auto and manual and certainly notice the stumble that's mentioned in this thread. It seems to be limited to the manual tranny crowd though (and verified by the posters in this thread and an overwhelming majority). You can always flash an auto map onto a manual car and see if the problem resolves, just disable the neutral safe switch CEL, might be worthwhile...it could eliminate a mechanical fault as being the culprit.
  5. you don't send the tranny to him, lol. you send the valve body and he sends it back -or- you pay upfront and he sends you one already modded, once you send your original to him he refunds you almost half.
  6. you have a fuel pump fuse in the engine fusebox, pull it and let the car die, swap the terbs, crank for a 5 seconds, you're done.
  7. but did you check a learning view? what k&n are you using and do you confirm it's not causing fuel trim issues?
  8. Cobb OTS maps do knock at low loads, if you have some learned knock there, the stutter you feel is the car moving in/out of load cells that have a jump or dip in timing from one to the next. Solution is to get a better tune. Another possibility is fueling. Best bet is to check a learning view to see if either of those two things are a reasonable cause for your particular car. Another option is that the Cobb timing tables (the base and advance) are not smooth, this is the fault of cobb themselves and can very well cause a stutter on it's own, even if you aren't knocking. This is why open source, or a custom pro tune is beneficial for driveability.
  9. it looks like you can run that map and be safe as long as the logs look like that. you could get a custom tune for a little bit more power but it looks like your car doesn't want to take much timing.
  10. I said IAM, not IAT(intake air temp)....Mostly for those people reading this that don't use cobb. IAM is DAM for open source people. Don't log independently, just add it to your log parameters(you know you can log multiple parameters at once to file). If you just want to know if you're knocking at all, or in the recent past, log FLKC and DAM. If you only log FLKC, you could very well have 0 all across the board but your DAM could be <1, which means you had significant knock in the past and the ecu is fractioning your total ignition down so that you don't have any more learned knock. That's still a bad situation even if your FLKC is all 0's.
  11. well, if you think you have bad gas, you can empty that tank out, fill with good 93, reset ecu and try again, if the fine learn knock is still more than -2 then compression test.
  12. fbkc only tells you if you're currently knocking. you still need to log DAM and fine learning knock to see if there's previous knock events bad enough for the ecu to learn to reduce timing. your fbkc might be zero the entire pull yet you could have oogles of learned knock or an iam/dam of less than 1.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use