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Penphoe

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About Penphoe

  • Birthday 10/17/1975

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  • Location
    I moderate over there...
  • Car
    ABP Legacy GT Ltd Wagon
  • Interests
    Subarus!
  • Occupation
    Edumacator

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  • Homepage
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=30
  • MSN
    penphoe@hotmail.com

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  1. Subaru of Canada aero roof rack cross bars (both front and rear in the box): XSCI306631 These aero bars have the "slot" in the top for aero-bar accessories to attach to. I have a set of ski/snowboard racks and bike racks, however I don't know what the part number for these accessories. This fits the MY05 LGT wagon with roof rails. Not too sure if it fits the LOB because it has a different rail system. Also, I don't know what the SOA part number for the same roof rack cross bar system is. LaterZ! Darren!!
  2. Boo-yah! Thanks for the instructions. Got my cabin filter installed yesterday afternoon. Let's see how my cheapie $2 filter does over the next six months. LaterZ! Darren!!
  3. Alright - here's my poor-man's Photoshop (actually, I used GIMP on a G3 iBook running Kubuntu FTW!) of my mod. I took mweiner2's maplight pic and showed how and where I placed my terminal ring. You can see how I placed the left terminal ring on the left side of the picture. Attached to the end of the terminal ring, I crimped and soldered some thin (18 ga) wire. To the other end of the wire, I soldered the diode as described in the original instructions. I secured the terminal ring to the map light as shown in the attached picture. What I did was use the existing screw to hold the terminal ring to the map light. I made sure that part of the metal ring touched the metal "bar" of the map light circuit. If the metal bar and terminal ring don't touch and make a good contact, the circuit will not be complete and the map light/dome light mod will not work. My particular terminal ring's hole was too big for the screw, so I used a small washer to cover the difference between the screw head and the terminal ring hole. Repeat for the right side and connect things up, and there ya go! A few more required parts than the original write-up, but now you don't have to worry about melting the map light switch! LaterZ! Darren!!
  4. I used this to "connect" the wire to the map light switch, held down by the two screws in the corner. http://www.nexternal.com/afla/images/531638.JPG LaterZ! Darren!!
  5. Sorry. I didn't take any photos - too lazy. That, and I recycled mweiner2's picture. I'll try to do a quick photochop of what I did. LaterZ! Darren!!
  6. Thanks to mweiner2 and all the others who shared their knowledge for this mod. I just finished mine up this morning. A few things different I did on mine: a) I popped the pins out of the map light plug and swapped them b) I couldn't get my "blob" of solder to stick to the metal tabs of the map light, so I used an "eyelet ring" connector. I secured the rings with the screws next to the "round circles" seen in the pic below. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/mwiener2/DomeLight011.jpg The rings were large enough that it touches the corner of the metal bar and that's where the electricity flows through. I used a washer to make sure the screw head held the ring down nice and snug! It's nice to have the front of the car illuminated now too! LaterZ! Darren!!
  7. I just finished putting on my winter wheel setup. Boy are these wheels heavy, but heck, are they built to last! Speedline Supertourismos 17x7 22.5 lbs (I believe) ET55 Running 215-45R17 Yokohama AVS Winter tires. See attachments for pics. http://photos.yungfamily.ca/albums/userpics/Darren/Speedlines/thumb_img_0663.jpg http://photos.yungfamily.ca/albums/userpics/Darren/Speedlines/thumb_img_0665.jpg http://photos.yungfamily.ca/albums/userpics/Darren/Speedlines/thumb_img_0667.jpg Don't mind the dirty car. LaterZ! Darren!!
  8. I just adjusted my parking brake this afternoon - easy one person job. As with any mod/DIY maintenance, you do so at your own risk and reward. If you can change your tires, you can easily adjust your parking brakes. It's probably best to do this adjustment when you're bleeding the brakes since you'll already have the wheels off of the car. I would have taken pics, but my hands were dirty. Why adjust the parking brakes? Well, if your car was like mine, you'd have to pull the parking brake lever up about 7-8 notches before it would engage with any significance. Now that I've adjusted my parking brakes, it engages at around 4-5 notches. Anyway, here are the instructions. Tools needed: Lugnut wrench/torque wrench Floor jack (or you can use the scissor jack the car came with Jack stands Wheel chocks - something to block the front wheels with Needle-nose pliers Flat-head screw driver (medium-large size)Put your car in gear/park and put some wheel chocks in front of your front wheels. You don't want your car rolling off of the jack. Break loose the lug nuts of your rear wheels - makes it easier to take off when its in the air. Jack the back of the car up. I used a floor jack so I simply raised the back end of my car at the rear diff lifting both rear tires at the same time. Once my car was up in the air, I put jack stands underneath the rear trailing arm points. I didn't lower the car back down onto these points, but had the jack stands there just in case the jack did release. Once the rear end was in the air, I removed the lug nuts and took off the wheels. If you imagine the back of the brake shield as a clock, there is a little rubber grommet up above the "6 o'clock" position. If you feel back there in that position, you'll find the grommet. It's a long thin grommet, about an inch long, by 1/4" tall. Lie underneath the car looking at the back at the bottom part of the rear discs, and you'll see it. I had to use pliers to pull the rubber grommet out. Open up your front door and release the parking brake! Once the grommet is out, put a flat blade screw driver into the hole. Use a fairly large screw driver - one whose blade is about the size of the hole. Too small, and you won't get a good "feel" for the cogged wheel that is inside the hole. Put the screw driver into the hole and lever it down so that the tip that is inside the hole goes up. It should rotate the adjustment gimbal inside the parking brake housing. It'll take a while to get the feel for it, but it's in there. It does have a slight "click" feel to it. Keep on rotating the gimbal up until it gets tighter and the parking brake mechanism engages. Once you hit that point, "undo" the wheel 3-4 times to disengage the parking brake mechanism. Pop the rubber grommet back on, and then repeat the procedure for the other side. While you've got the wheel off, you might as well do an inspection on your suspension bits, brake lines, axles and CV boots, and brakes! Pull the parking brake up and it should engage with less clicks! Put your wheels back on, tighten up the lug nuts, remove the jack stands and lower your car. LaterZ! Darren!!
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