Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Metal

Members
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

Personal Information

  • Location
    USA
  • Car
    2011 Subaru Legacy 3.6R Limited

Metal's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Good find. If I'm ever back in there I'll give it a shot. For now though I don't actually need it removed, so as long as there's no warning lights coming on I'll leave it alone.
  2. A week or so ago I installed a new headunit in my car, a Pioneer AVH W4500NEX (wireless Android auto is awesome). I've done this a couple times before in this car so I didn't expect any difficulty. However, immediately after the installation the SRS airbag warning light came on on my dash. It would either come on right when I start the car and stay on, or it would turn on after 15-20 minutes of driving. I read the codes and got 21 (airbag ecu failure) and 26 (passenger airbag indicator failure). After a reset they would come back and this went on for a few days while I was freaking out about how much this would cost me. I realized that the only thing I did different this time around was that I disconnected and removed the factory Sirius radio module that was underneath the headunit. I have the factory HK speaker system that came with Siruis. I took it out because it was just sitting there and I knew I would never use it. Thinking that maybe this caused some electrical gremlins I connected it back up and popped it in the same spot it was before. The warning light went away and all had been well for a couple days now. I never as much as touched any airbag harness connectors. I have no idea why removing this module caused that issue but I thought I'd post it here in case someone else runs into a similar issue.
  3. I put together this DIY on how to install a completely hidden Qi charger on the dash of the car. I put it on my Gen. 5 Legacy but it'll work on any model that has this trim piece... or really on any car where you can find a trim piece to hide the charger in. What you'll need; - Qi charger & cable. - JB Weld. - Pliers, sandpaper & chisel. - Optional - Neodymium magnets. - Optional - 12 to 5v converter. Step One - First you'll need to remove this cover from the dash. Take note of where the clips are and be careful not to scratch anything. I have a couple plastic trim removal tools but you'll be fine without as long as you're careful. http://img.fae.ro/b62f03.png http://img.fae.ro/468bf2.png Step Two - Grab your cheap Chinese Qi charger (was like 6 bucks on eBay)... http://img.fae.ro/59c2b8.jpeg ...and rip it apart. http://img.fae.ro/038707.jpeg If you look closely you'll see that one piece of the charging coil is laying over the top. This caused my charger to not sit flush on the trim piece. I detached it with a soldering iron, snaked it underneath the plastic and reattached it so it wasn't in the way. Step Three - Now take your car's trim piece and look at the bottom. You'll notice that there's some plastic that you'll need to remove to fit the charger. http://img.fae.ro/813197.jpeg Pliers and a chisel made short work of it. I also used sandpaper to clean and rough it up for the JB weld. http://img.fae.ro/2a60c7.jpeg Step Four - Measure out exactly where you want the charger to sit and JB weld it on. Optional - I attached two magnets so that it gives me a reference point on where to put my phone. It also helps it not slide around while driving. The trim plastic is pretty thick so the magnets aren't as strong as I hoped but it works fine. The downside is that when I get a new phone the magnets might not be as helpful. http://img.fae.ro/ca07d4.jpeg Step Five - Plug it in. I used a USB cable to plug it into an extra USB slot on the back of my dash unit. This made things pretty simple for me. If this isn't an option for you then you have to find an accessory power cable on the back of your radio and tap into that. If you do this you'll need a 12v to 5v converter OR you can even re-purpose a USB cigarette lighter plug. You can find the converter for 5-10 bucks on eBay or amazon. http://img.fae.ro/876d45.jpeg Keep in mind that if you have a thick phone case this might not work. The trim piece plastic is pretty thick to begin with. I tried another phone with an Otter case on it and it proved to be too thick to charge. That's it! Let me know what you think. The only extra thing I might do is put some kind of sticker or thin rubber pad as a reference point if the magnets prove to not be enough.
  4. This is the exact one I bought. Eight bucks and gets the job done. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WIN8VQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage]Amazon.com: Eastvita® 20 Pin to OBD Obd2 Obdii DLC 16 Pin Car Diagnostic Adapter Converter Cable for KIA (Blue): Automotive[/ame]
  5. Thought I would post this in case someone else is having a similar problem and can't figure out how to fix it. A couple of weeks I got a check engine light. The dash lit up while I was driving and when I got home a scan showed that it threw codes P0301, P0303 and P0305. Miisfire in cyliders 1, 3 and 5. All three on the passenger side. Car ran fine, no weird noises, no noticeable performance issues, and no rough idle. I cleared it and it would come back 10 miles later. I inspected the spark plugs, ignition coils, O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF, and checked anything else I could think of. I was at a loss until I decided to run FreeSSM while driving. I noticed that this time a new code came up that I haven't seen before, P0014. The code read as "Exhaust Active Valve Contol System (AVCS) System 1 (Range/Performance)". http://img.fae.ro/411492.png This was new and I thought that it's probably not a coincident. Interestingly enough it cleared itself and I wouldn't have seen it if I didn't have FreeSSM hooked up while driving. So I did a little research online and found this diagnostic procedure. http://img.fae.ro/e4ad09.jpeg I followed the directions and ran FreeSSM with the following measuring blocks; Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Retard Angle (Exhaust) Oil Flow Control Solenoid Valve (OCV) Duty (Exhaust) I checked both left and right sides and compared them. From my understanding the left and right angle should match. FreeSSM showed that while the left angle moved up and down as the RPM's did the right one didn't follow. It would either stay at zero or suddenly jump high/drop low. You can see in the picture below the left is at 10 and right is at 0. They should have both been at 10. http://img.fae.ro/e900e1.png I decided to flush my engine oil according the the procedure and clean the right exhaust side OCV. I took it out and it appeared fine. It moved with no issue and it's resistance checked fine with my multimeter. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and popped it back in. The check engine codes came back within 10 miles. FreeSSM showed no change. I went to my dealer and got a replacement for $80 bucks (part# 10921AA190). http://img.fae.ro/551ee2.png I test drove the car with FreeSSM running and the left and right angles matched almost perfectly. They finally stayed within a couple degrees of one another. I've been driving the car and no check engine light so far. As far as replacing the OCV it's very simple. There's four of them but this one is on the bottom of the passenger side of the engine, right below the spark plug coils on that side. It's attached by one 10mm bolt.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use