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Yo! Thanks for the reply.. man thatd be awesome if I could even barrow it. It's got to be better than the old Cobb I have. I'm gonna put it on the initial e85 tune so lower boost and all that and might could get the stocker you have to pass with some cat clean or whatever, so I've been told. If my up pipe is also catless, is that gonna move the needle replacing with catted? I think the one it had was leaking at the mesh, maybe that'll actually help too!

Hey guys.. I built this car in New Mexico where emissions were not a thing. Regrettably I gave the down pipe away for pennies, maybe even on here. I'm hoping thats all it needs, despite the 600$ price tag sob. A little info: it's basically had every external mod you can do.. stock internals. Vf52, old Cobb downpipe (might be non catted or if it is catted just barely), GS uppipe (also I believe catless oof), nameless 6" cans, tgv deletes, Radium top feed conversion rails and lines, walbro 450(?) Fuel pump, ID 1000cc injectors, unequal length headers, Cobb cai, perrin inlet, gfb blowoff/ recirculating valve, FMIC, 3 port boost control solenoid, tuned at altitude for e85 and 91 Oct by Dave @ Cryotune in 2017. Am I screwed? Car still has some life in it and some pep. Albeit maybe signs of oil getting into places it shouldn't. Was hoping to get a few more miles out of it but thinking I might be SOL in this state

Driver side rear door??

Sweet website discojon! Pretty cool to have all that at your finger tips... I bet its a good time to just think something up, some wild design, then make it a reality. Unfortunately tho, the cubby guage business is small scale man.. And the price point MUCH lower. I do hope you get some takers, just wanted to point out to you that the average cost is 40$ bucks- for any material. I bought mine on here, thought it was abs of some sort for 20$ bucks shipped... Turns out its aluminum and came powder coated.

Hey, did you already order your fuel pump? If not, might want to check with Dave at CryoTuning first... He preferred the AEM to DW for my build, e85; however I can run 91/93 as well... Did a gas and corn tune :balla:

x2 with tgv wire

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-boosti-262305.html And yes... I have been CryoTuned... Have YOU?!

So, I dont have the plx.. I have the innovative one.. I can try to help, but dont really follow your issue.. Its powering on just not giving a reading? Uhg first world problems.. I had written a book for my review and then the page refreshed and it vanished I will type another novel later... For now, here's a thread I made professing my love for Dave and my Cryo experience-

I used one of the air freshoners that plug in to the vent, dremmeled it down to fit into the area the ball/swivel goes on the stock little holder that comes with the AP... A zip tie to snug it up in the vent- no fancy printing required! Although, I'd definitely be printing if I had the means!!

I'll try that, thanks boss

What value do I add to the AP for logging, having tapped into the passenger side TGV?

Looks clean! Mine came out a little rough... keeping the door, and now the clock won't sit flush. Of course I cut up some old abs off a truck bed liner, and haven't the access to a coolkid 3d printer.... lol

Looks clean! Mine came out a little rough... keeping the door, and now the clock won't sit flush. Of course I cut up some old abs off a truck bed liner, and haven't the access to a coolkid 3d printer.... lol

Any harm in cutting the connector that fits like butter, AND clicks in, off of the TGV sensor itself? Surprised no-one has mentioned this... I mean, once the tgvs are deleted, why would you ever UN delete them? My motors, sensors, and rods are collecting dust in the garage anyhow... Of course going to the ecu, once I find the right wire, is probably easier, and would make that a moot point anyhow

You da man! Thanks bro!!! I'll have to go back a few pages and see which wire needs to be tapped to the ecu.. if it's right there, and so are the wires... no sense in running wires to the engine bay