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BlackHole

I Donated Too
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  • Location
    Plainfield, IL
  • Car
    05 LGT RBP 6MT wagon project
  • Occupation
    Mad Scientist

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    Mad Scientist

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  1. For my wagon the sub-frame fitment had very little slop or misalignment tolerance - it only fit one way. When installing it took an incremental approach to get all the mounts aligned: lift the subframe to just touching the chassis Thread any mounting bolts possible Manually shift the subframe to align the other bolts OR tighten / loosen the threaded bolts to align the unthreaded mounts [*]repeat until all bolts are threaded [*]then tighten and final torque If the bolts were tightened first thing there was always some mount that didn't align. My first failed attempt took 30 min, success took <10 min.
  2. (edited quote) You have all the big pieces. I'd inspect and do some preventative maintenance on the new drivetrain before installation: replace the rear diff-to-axle and trans-to-driveshaft seals inspect rear hub bearing assemblies & replace if questionable change the rear diff fluid, much easier off the car lube the parking brake cables while they are disconnected inspect the rear subframe diff mounts for worn/cracked bushings disassemble, clean and lube anything that is supposed to move but could rust (e.g. threads on adjustable control arms, camber bolts, etc.) YMMV - I found it easiest to drop the whole rear subframe then bolt-in the new parts since all of the bolts / nuts are then easy to access. Enjoy! The install is not too bad since you have it as a unit.
  3. Just on random chance did you check the brake calipers? I've had a bolt back out of one and the caliper loose on the hub. It sounded a lot like a ball joint going or suspension issues but it was intermittent since sometimes it rubbed the inside of the wheel and/or clunked, sometimes it didn't. Drove me nearly insane trying to find it, but once I did, it was fixed in about 30 seconds and was never heard from again. Oh, and I'll post my full 6MT swap parts list here in a few weeks once I get the car running. This full wagon rebuild has turned into quite the odyssey.
  4. Interesting. I'll still take a "weaker" 6MT over a "strong" 5MT any day.
  5. Correct. All Spec Bs use the 3.545 pinion & crown gear set, part #38104AA230. Surprisingly this is a different part# (38104AA270) than the 06-07 STi 3.545. Not sure about the 08+ STi, I couldn't find that part#. Yes, the 08+ STis all use the same transmission, part #32000AJ650, trans code TY856UW1MA.
  6. I'm looking at the same x8500 - I just did a Google shopping search and came up with $473 for a low here: http://www.12voltsavings.com/pioneer-avh-x8500bhs-multimedia-dvd-receiver-with-bluetooth-hd-radio/ but I don't know about shipping cost to you.
  7. I pieced it together - all separate purchases. The 6 speed swap kits on eBay have a lot of the key parts, but you'll still need LGT specific parts.
  8. All the parts have been ordered. I got a good deal on the R180 rear end parts needed, so I'm not using the R160 (would have saved me ~$770). Recipe B - 3.54:1 rear diff ($5000 total) Transmission options: 08 STi ($2535) Rear diff options: 06 STi R180 ($410) Rear axles: Spec B ($450) Front axles: Regular LGT ($free) Driveshaft: 4EAT ($100) STi flywheel: stock, resurfaced ($165) misc parts ($300) DCCD controller ($455) clutch: DXD Stg 2 Endurance ($575)
  9. 08+ STi shifter info: Measurements of the arms / control rods - how do these compare to Spec B? 10 3/8" Upper arm, eye-to center of trans mount bolt 10 15/16" Lower arm, shifter socket center to trans mount center Understand that this is a household tape measure, so measurements may be off by a 16th either way. I also measured a brand new 2012 STi shifter and got the same measurements. And yes, this shifter was in a fire. The explanatory pic:
  10. Yes! They are the same part# 41310AG040.
  11. Not all forged piston motors slap. It depends on the piston pin offset, piston material and piston-to-wall clearance used by the builder. Then stick to the lower expansion 4032 pistons (Mahle, Wossner, Cosworth) and pick a builder who is used to setting the clearances appropriate to your use. For reliability, blueprint the bearing clearances. Subaru doesn't do a great job in making them consistent from the factory which will affect the oiling, especially on the #2 & 3 rods which are fed by the same main bearing. I have 5 blocks sitting here, all of whom failed on either the #2 or 3 rod.
  12. Here, only 1 page, post #1 is all you need. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/nsfws-6mt-swap-thread-143520.html?t=143520 I'm post #336, Recipe B - my current cost estimate is ~$4300 when finished including a new clutch and DCCD controller.
  13. What can I say - every $ saved helps the budget. I wasn't originally going to do the 6spd, but I couldn't resist.
  14. Yup. Resurfaced flywheel = good as new. Used clutch, well you can't resurface the pressure plate.
  15. As of this morning, I will be joining the 6spd swap club from an 08 STi. For budgetary reasons I'm sticking with a WRX R160 3.54 rear end until I can afford the $1k for the R180 swap ($400 diff + $600 Spec B axles). Following Recipe B since I wanted the helical center diff: Recipe B - 3.54:1 rear diff (est $4000 total) Transmission options: 08 STi ($2535) Rear diff options: 02-05 WRX R160 ($175) Rear axles: Regular LGT with R160 ($free) Front axles: Regular LGT ($free) Driveshaft: 4EAT ($100) STi flywheel: stock, resurfaced ($150) clutch: DXD Stg 2 Daily ($495) misc parts: $TBD DCCD controller: $TBD
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